New to me '95 2 wheel drive

[WZehner]

I recently purchased my first CTD pickup. A 1 owner 1995 Laramie Std Cab with 75,000 miles. I would like to do some mods to improve mileage and performance. It came with a 4" exaust and I've purchased an Isspro gauge kit consisting of Boost, Pyro and transmission temp. Upon delivery I had the transmission serviced and modified. What would be the sequence of mods? My usage is 90% solo and 10% pulling a 3500lb. Boston Whaler boat. Thanks for your valuable input. Bill Z in Portland, Or.

 

[WBusa]

Job 1: fix the Killer Dowel Pin

Job 2: install those gauges

Reasonable people can differ on the order in which you might do all the rest. My own path emphasized FIRST fixing everything that was broken, about to break, or dreadfully engineered, including:

* Change every fluid, and install Mag-Hytech diff and transmission covers while you're at it

* Replace worn-out shocks with Bilsteins... holy cow what a difference!!!

* Get those leaking batteries out of there before they eat all your lines, scrub everything in sight with baking soda to neutralize the acid, and install Optimas

* Slap a set of LarryB contacts into the starter

* Track down leaks... for me this involved replacing all the transmission cooler lines to lose the unreliable quick-disconnects

* Get everything adjusted properly in the 'Axis of Evil': the throttle linkage, the throttle position sensor (TPS), and the throttle valve cable (I'm assuming you've got an auto).

* If you have any boost leaks, track 'em down and fix 'em.

* Carefully inspect your hitch. Is it cracked? Horribly rusted? Do you trust it?

* Is your carpet wet? Track down cab leaks (third brake light gasket, doors, rear window, etc.



Now take some time to collect some baseline data... MPG for city, hwy, towing, empty; EGTs and boost pressure under various conditions. Having this baseline data will help you judge the effects of your mods.



Only then, once I'd convinced myself the Beast was now road-worthy and I knew what to expect of her, did I start on performance mods. Again, there are any number of paths depending upon your philosophy, your budget, and what you're shooting for. My path is/was:

* #6 TST plate (this is a more conservative choice than many others would recommend)

* Throw away the stock air filter box and install an aFe or other big-honker

* Replace 160HP injectors with 215s

* Advance timing to 15 degrees

* Coming soon: slap on a DSS to address the sloppy steering

* Someday: upgrade the torque converter and valve body

 

[Joe G.]

Bill Z,



The above list by WBusa looks kind of intimidating, but it's really not all that bad. I would add, service the brakes. Make sure that the calipers slide properly on the mounts. Smooth the slides a little with a file and grease them lightly with high temp brake grease. Remove the pins. If they are scuffed up replace them. Polish the pins with crocus cloth and lube them with high temp brake grease. If the pads are worn replace them. Inspect the rear brakes for any problems. Look for signs of leaking rear axle seals. Adjust the rear brakes by hand. The so-called automatic adjusters work when ever they feel like it so a touch up adjustment whenever you service the truck (oil, grease, etc) is a very good idea.



Another thing to remember is that the automatic transmission is a little different than later models. It is a 47RH instead of a 47RE. It has a fly weight governor instead of an electronic one. What this means is that electronic controller boxes will not work on your transmission.



I would add a fuel pressure gauge. Might keep you from walking some time.

 

[CarlJensen]

Not to hijack this thread but I see Joe G, that you have 370's in yours. I am debating 250's or 370's. How do they work? WZehner, welcome. I am sorry, I did not mean to butt in just wanted to get more info. Good advice on this site, for the most part. You will get to know who the really knowledgable people are pretty quick and they can steer you right. W Busa gives a pretty good run down on it. Fill out your signature with data on your truck so people can see what you have for better replies.

 

[Joe G.]

Carl,



I sent you a PM.



Joe

 

[Dual EE]

I am pretty happy w/my set up. All useable hp, even when towing.

Here's a thread w/more info:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118746

 

[WBusa]

The above list by WBusa looks kind of intimidating, but it's really not all that bad.

Thanks for the backup, Joe. I sorta forgot there for a moment what it was like, being new to 2nd-gen ownership. Reading your comment, it suddenly occurred to me that if somebody had told me all this stuff needed doing when I first bought the Beast, I prolly woulda rolled it off a cliff and shot myself. :-laf But yep, you're right, its not all that bad. Take things one at a time, read up, work slowly, play loud music. You'll get to know your truck like the back of your hand, and you'll have confidence that all the jobs were done right because you did 'em yourself.



Oh yeah, one other EXTREMELY important Phase I 'mod': Buy a factory service manual!!!

 

[Joe G.]

Oh yeah, one other EXTREMELY important Phase I 'mod': Buy a factory service manual!!!

I otta do that too. My old one is a mess. I glued the cover back on a couple of years ago, but some of the pages are getting out again. ATF wrecks glue. The factory service manual is a must. It will pay for itself many times. The aftermarket cheapies aren't even close. The wireing diagram alone is worth the price of the manual.

 

[WBusa]

The aftermarket cheapies aren't even close.

Boy, that's the truth, isn't it? I bought a Haynes the same time I bought the factory service manual. The Haynes has never once answered any of my questions, whereas the service manual almost always does. The Haynes was a complete waste of money.



Now, if only somebody published a good troubleshooting/diagnostics manual... but I guess that's what TDR is for... .

 

[CarlJensen]

Haynes does have a pretty good section on dash removal. It's the only reason I keep it!