Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New Torque Converter gone bad?

[Blue Coyote]

Need some held diagnosing a problem with a 97 CTD 3500 4x4 w/ 198k, and a Banks Kit. Just installed a reman trans w/ billet faced single dics converter. <Not looking to bash the vendor, only trying to see if there is an issue> When running empty the trans shifts cripsly and operates correctly, although it did seem to take more throttle to get moveing. However when towing my 38' GN trailer (GVW of 15. 5k) there is an issue. It takes even more thottle to get moving, takes a long time to get up to speed, seems like the converter is way too loose. But once in lock up mode & OD it flys. However on hills is falls on its face The engine makes plenty of power (boost, rpm, EGT), but even in 1st gear it crawls up the big hills. Had the Trans Temp light come on, and the temp gauge was about max'd. Fluid is still full, clear & red, no burnt smell. Now on flat ground it takes lots of throttle to move the trailer, and it required 4lo to get up the driveway. Seems this converter has too high a stall speed - even the old blued converter / worn trans performed better. transmission did not appear to slip, shift quality / points are the same and good.

Did I just get a bad reman converter?

 

[JTEdieselram]

Seems like you got a bad converter. Most of the time when a converter shop builds a billet converter they whill re-work the veins to actually lower the stall for diesels. This means that when you accelerate it takes less rpms to ingage. If it takes more than befor it is a possibility that your converter may have accidentally been built from a v10 core? They look almost identical, the only difference are vein angles. Your engine may also be putting out too much power for a single disk lockup clutch (does not take much). I would seek getting a refund, and upgrade to a tripple disk converter. I got mine through hughs (at cottman transmissions) for $1000. 00 (a little over cost because I know the head builder at that piticular shop) I think they sell for around $1300. 00. You may also want to install a billet input shaft (about $600. 00) because this will be the second thing to take a crap on you (I know from experence) Once you have installed these two items your transmission will be virtually indistructable. I know it is a lot of $$$, but if you plan on keeping the truck, it is a good investment. Plus if you ever wanna do some HP upgrades you will be ready to go!

 

[Diesel Nut]

If you are going to spend $1300 bucks I would get one from Suncoast. Name brand, well known, and darn they work!!



From what you are describing, the lock up clutch is fine, but the converter is either too loose or the pump is weak. Does teh engine rev up a bunch when trying to get the truck moving? Also, was the trans built locally or by a big name diesel transmission comapany (Suncoast, NADP, GB, BD, ect)?

 

[Nate]

That sounds just like my truck and I believe it's because I have a cheap rebuilt convertor.

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Here's what I know

Ok,

I have an ATS .

I like it!

Keep in mind.

It's all about the combination.

I have a 12 valve that makes alot of power at low rpm's.

12 valves are hard on converters.

We don't spin enough rpm's to make the converter work properly.

If you have a lower stall converter it will help get the truck moving.

However if you have a larger turbo that takes longer to spool you will have a hard time getting the turbo to spin up with a low stall converter.





I did not like the stock converter at all it would just slip at my power level.

I ended up with the ATS variable something or another.

It still slips a little at low rpm ,which allows the turbo to spool.

At 2000 rpm's it's probably only slipping 5%. At 2500 rpm 2%

(Not much drop in rpm when the Converter locks up).



It sure sounds like you need a lower stall converter.

Talk with the vendor about your combo.



SFB