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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New truck, a few ?s

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Video of "Death Wobble"

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I just bought a 94 5 speed Dodge. I am looking for a proven modification path for a reliable, powerful truck. I've read about the torque plates and they seem to be a good way to go, but there are a few of them out there. Would someone reccomend one? I'm not really interested in propane injection at this point in time, but water injection has caught my eye.



How much power is the stock clutch good for? What is a good streetable (no 6 puck ceramic units for me, thanks:) upgrade clutch setup?



By reliable, I mean I need to not be breaking parts all the time. I don't want to be snapping input shafts or other transmission parts when I'm towing a large load 300 miles from home:)



I am very familiar with high HP turbo gasoline engines, and somewhat familiar with turbo diesels, but I'm basically just looking for a path that works. I don't need to be a pioneer in CTD modifications, I just want to know what works. Thanks!
 
first guages at least a pyrometer, boost is a good idea also, then try sliding your plate, afc wheel and housing you should like it. then look into a TST plate, 3 or 4k spring kit, and air filter by then your egts will be an issue and your clutch couldnt handle to much more.
 
Welcome.

Welcome to the TDR. First thing to do is to go to the top of the page, click on the "User Control Panel" and fill in your signature. This will let the TDR membership point you towards other members, Chapters, and events.



Now for your quest for power, a #10 plate, and a 3 GSK kit will really wake up your truck. Of course gauges are recommended to monitor the new power so you don't do damage to the engine.



As for the clutch, that really depends on the use and abuse it may have already been subjected to, as well as how the driver treats the clutch. .



I believe that a good stock clutch properly driven should hold on to the above mentioned 3GSK and #10 plate. If you add big injectors, I doubt that it would hold. I'm really an automatic trans guy, so if I'm wrong on this I'm sure those who know will speak up.



Hope this helps. Greg L
 
My truck has a #11 plate full forward and I can slip the clutch in 4th and 5th gear if I'm not careful. The clutch has about 143,000 miles on it so I guess it is about due anyway.

Will
 
94 manual should have a 175 hp pump. If I am wrong, please correct me. I used a #6 plate in mine and did not have clutch slippage with that plate. A 3K GSK would be the first bomb I'd do after fixing KDP issue. Get gauges first though.
 
MatthewPark



welcome to TDR as you will find this member ship is probably the best mod you can make for your truck.



i can not stress how important it is to Kill the KDP if you dont already know what this is go to this link

http://tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=35685

and find out. when i found out i stopped driving my truck until i fixed it. if you do the jig method it is very simple. the tab method is a better fix but both accomplish the same end result.



then get some gauges i have the pyro and 0-60psi boost mounted on the a piller. some run the 0-30psi boost but i hit 37psi right now and i plan on more upgrades.



i had to replace the transmission so i had a fully splined main shaft and upgraded fifth gear nut put in while it was out. make sure you get this done if you have to rebuild you transmission.



with the number 10 plate you can go mild or wild it is a great plate and i'm sure you would be happy with it. when i installed mine in the stock position i had no problems with the clutch but then i slide the plate foward and started slipping the clutch.



in hindsight i wish i had installed a better clutch when i had rebuilt the transmission put in.



i went with a southbend Con O that way i didn't need a bigger flywheel.



i also went with the 4kgsk since it came with new valve springs which by the way is a pain to install but i was glad i did it.



these are my results with my 94 5spd 4x4 2500 with a fully spined main shaft, updated fifth gear nut, South Bend Con O clutch, tst #10 plate slid full foward, 4k GSK initial click plus 3 clicks, 60lb valve springs, timed at 15. 5 degrees, strait piped, and a BHAF



http://tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=92180&highlight=Dyno
 
I just wanted to remind you to check the Boost Line from the turbo housing extending to the AFC housing. I just bombed my '94 "see signature for mods" and this hard piped line was worn through from rubbing on the exhaust manifold. This and the listed mods will make you happy for about a week, then the HP junky will rear its head. I'm saving for a new clutch and injectors for Christmas. My clutch is holding but will slip if any pressure is applied to the peddle or if I really slam through the gears.



Welcome aboard and have fun with your new torque monster.
 
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