Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New Truck Mystery #3 - transmission shudder

[ddechris]

New '98 12V auto. The previous owner had the transmission go out on him. If you read the other mysteries, you realize this truck has probably 100hp and 260 ft lbs added, so no wonder. He went to his friendly neighborhood Dodge dealer and they installed a MOPAR remanufactured transmission with torque converter. This was in CA. On his drive to NY, that transmission died around PA (which is why we got the truck). The local dealer replaced the transmission with another MOPAR reman under warranty.



So, I have a truck with less than 500 miles on a MOPAR reman transmission and TC. However, whenever that TC locks up, we get a shudder through the truck kind of like clutch chatter (which it probably is). It will do it at 45 mph in OD or 35 mph if I had OD turned off.



Even though this truck has power available, the shudder happens without driving it aggressively. Plus, I would think that power is available at the high end. Now, I have done a few test runs to see what the truck can do, but not with a load or for very long.



We're happy with the truck, but for all that we layed out, truck truck ought to drive a little better. As it is now, we need to avoid anything in the 40-50mph range. Should I have the dealer make it right, or jump right to aftermarket upgrades.



Any thoughts? Thanks.



-Dave

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Transmission upgrade time.

Open wallet !

Get a second job !

Heck you might even consider a life of crime when the Bombing bug gets you.



You have many options.

You might find a competent Transmission shop to increase the line preasure.

That might be all you need to get you by for awhile. (probably not when the right foot goes crazy).

Drive with an egg under your throtle foot?



A good quality Torque converter AND valve body will allow you to keep your power level.



If you are low on funds I'd take the power away by sliding the fuel plate back and or adjusting the star wheel tighter to slow down the power delivery.





SFB

 

[Highfinance97]

Dave, did you just purchase this truck and if so where did you get it??



i looked at a truck last weekend in cortland NY. that seemed to have the same problems





michael

 

[supeerman4422]

i had that problem with my 98 i used some lucas trans stuff, it worked pretty well



-Tom

 

[ddechris]

Just picked it up mid-November. The previous owner did some major coast to coast miles with it. I think he only traded it because the trans when out again. I suspect he didn't know about the mods.



I called a local shop that distributes BD products. After describing the problem, he was hanging $100 on it having the wrong fluid. He recommended swapping out the ATF +4 which the dealer most likely put in and replace it with ATF +3. He said the synthetic oil won't let the stock TC clutch lock at the stock pressure settings, rpm etc. It's to slick. Kind of makes sense if I think about it. Anyone found this to be true?





As far as the BD products, he recommended to prolong the life and get better efficiency and performance of the relatively new transmission to get their valve body, TC and pressure lock device. For a local shop, their prices weren't bad: $1195 for the TC, $450 for the VB and $305 for the pressure lock. I might do the VB now which would improve pressure to the stock TC clutch and keep it from tearing out. Then maybe add some of the others when we pay off Christmas.



Any ratings on BD products, good or bad?



- Dave

 

[ddechris]

Changed the fluid with no real change in the shudder. I actually pumped the fluid out of the to get it all. Probably got about 13-14 quarts out. However, I can't get that much in. I put 12 in and it reads way too high. Is there a procedure for bleeding the coolers or anything?



Well, Delton from Zimmy's Automotive (The BD distributor) and I did some test driving last night. Even when he wired up the line pressure lever, it still shuddered. So, I'm guessing the damage has already been done.



Any pointers for swapping the VB and TCC? Seems pretty simple, but tips and tricks are always helpful.



- Dave

 

[Joe G.]

The TC is easy. A lot of work but nothing really challenging. Jack the truck up HIGH and put it on axle stands. The cooler lines are messy so have something to cover the ends of them with. Drip for a week if you let them. The cross member that the transmission sits on can be a PITA. I use a tool to spread the frame a little bit to aid in dealing with the cross member. Remove the t-case separately from the trans. It's too big and unbalanced to pull as a unit. That can be done, but it's dangerous. If you have a two piece drive shaft be carefull with the bearing support for it. That thing can give you good whack if you are not carefull. The bolts that fasten the TC to the flex place are accessable from the front of the bell housing. There is a little cover with two screws in it over the access hole.



The only thing that is a problem with the VB is the park rod. Remove the e-clip from the end of it and leave it in the transmission.



All the other stuff is routine. No problem to solve them.

 

[ddechris]

Thanks, Joe.



I still have you're more detailed instructions somewhere for the other incidentals. I contantacted DTT via email but didn't really get a response from them. Got a good response from Georend Brothers. The BD shop is local which saves on shipping and I have someone to go to if it needs adjusting afterwards, etc.



BD also makes a Pressure Lock. Is there any real advantage to adding this? Keep in mind my truck is only mildly built and I have no intentuions of going any further.



- Dave

 

[Joe G.]

I don't know about the pressure lock. I have heard some negative comments about it and some positive. If you tow and use an exhaust brake you will need a way to lock the TCC so the exhaust brake will be useful. I use a switch and control lockup manually. There are other schemes to do that. Do a search on TPS problems. Especially posts by Howard Durand and ridesamule.