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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) New Turbo, Need Advice and Help With An 01

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) engine stumble.

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV4500 gearshift rattle

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I bought the 01 in my sig about a year and a half ago. Lift pump went so I put on a DDRP, then the turbo took a dump. I had no plans of modding this truck at all. But I was sold a BD Super B with the tale that it would move the truck just as good as a stock one, and the price was a lot cheaper than the dealership for a reman plus install. We lived in WAY upstate NY and I had it replaced and the truck seemed to run fine, except the turbo wouldn't really spool until I hit above 2k RPMs. Well we just moved from there to the Blue Ridge Moutains of VA and I pulled a trailer with stuff on it that couldn't have weighed more than 7k and the truck was not liking the hills at all. Even now that we're here it don't like the hills at all when it's empty. I'm also throwing overboost codes that I keep clearing, which I know a boost fooler will take care of. But I'm also being told that I need more fuel and I should put a set of 100s in it along with a box. Does any of this sound right to you guys? Like I said, I had no plans of doing anything with this truck as I liked it stock with nothing to worry about, but with the money for other repairs I've done on this truck I'm not ready to give up yet.

Thanks for any help.
 
Yeah, you are going to need more fuel quicker to spool that turbo and you are going to need something with boost fooling. Someone may have better suggestions, but in my opinion, at the minimum, you are going to need something like the Edge EZ, Quad XZT, or Smarty. They will all fuel quicker, with varying degrees, and give you boost fooling. The bigger wire tap boxes may send you into the proverbial slippery slope, bigger clutch, studding the head, etc... . I would try one of those first and then a mild injector, especially if you tow in the mountains. Regards, Mike.
 
Yep, its lacking fuel on the bottom end as evidenced by it spooling good at 2k and above.



Does it pull and work well if you keep the rpms up around 2300?



A Smarty will remove the TQ management and fuel harder and faster on the bottom end which will spool the turbo faster. Like was mentioned then your clutch is gonna be the next weak link though. Thats why its original name was the CaTCHER. ;)
 
It sounds like what I dealt with. I added 275RV injectors and a Smarty, it spooled much better. On a side note, with the injectors and Smarty my mileage was better. :eek:



Shea
 
More fuel is one option however, that opens you up to more possibilities of problems. Plain and simple, you were sold a turbo that is too big for your application. In my opinion you need to address the original mistake, the turbo. I believe the super B has a 14cm wastegated exhaust housing which if swapped out for a 12cm wastegated, you will see much better spooling.

-Scott
 
SRadke is right. I didn't know the Super B had a 14cm housing. I have a 12cm housing on my HTT turbo and it spools fine with my Edge EZ and the Mach 1. 2's. That is with towing in the mountians. I don't think I could live with a 14cm housing, but my truck is an auto. I feel SRadke is correct and you might call BD Diesel to see if they can change your exhaust side over to a 12cm housing. Even with that, I still think you are going to need an Edge EZ or a Smarty to fuel quicker and for boost fooling. Regards, Mike.
 
You for sure need something for boost fooling. Without a boost fooler, the engine will cut fuel in order to try and not overboost. So that is why your truck had such trouble in the hills, as the ECM was cutting fuel anytime you were pulling hard. I would try either a smarty or and Edge EZ first, and see if that fixs your problem.
 
All of the above are correct, but have you condsidered trolling the classifieds here for a used original turbo to put on? I made a hybrid turbo out of my original one and at one point thought that I wanted the original back, so I started to look around. While I never did buy it, I found them from time to time in the TDR classifieds for $350-500. A reasonable price that should make your truck run the way it was, assuming you can get one that's trustworthy.
 
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