New u-joint project

[crispyboy]

76k miles and I had a passenger side u-joint go bad. Of course it was the same week as a planned camping trip. I went to change it myself and found that my method of changing the joint allowed the yoke to bend ever so slightly that I couldn't get the last clip in place on the stub side. I was about a half a clip thickness short. A driveline shop was able to save the day by fixing and I assembled everything the night before leaving. Both joints were replaced as I figured the driver side would not be far behind. I usually try to get things fixed fixed before crunch time comes but life happens. I also pumped some grease into the wheel hub for good measure.
The new joints are Moog Precision brand which is what the local parts house had available. They do seem more substantial (very heavy and thicker) than the OEM joints.

 

[Ozymandias]

Next time use an angle grinder with a 1mm cutting disc an just cut out the old u-joint.
That way it goes fast and perfectly safe for the yoke.
The cups alone are easy to be beaten out with a hammer on a vise.
5Min. Job that way, did it 3 weeks ago and installed ne Spicer joints without zerk, the moogs i had have worn out after arround 30000Mi.

 

[crispyboy]

Thanks - will try that next time for removal.
So how did you install? A press? I have a large press and thought I was careful and really took my time. The driveline shop said never use a press as that is how the yokes get bent.

 

[Wayne M.]

I use a bench vise. Support the "cross" or perpendicular or other yoke in the vise jaws and smack down the edge/radius of the yoke/cap facing up. Use the vise to press it back together. Use a socket to get past flush to install clips, then seat the clips and back off the caps against the cross by lightly smacking the yoke same as disassembly.
Been doing it this way for 25 years.

for big truck joints, I like this tool which basically does what my vise technique does.
http://www.kienedieseltools.com/p-2...MIhuTSnqqt1QIVTxuBCh2z1gOrEAQYFyABEgLuGvD_BwE

 

[MartyK]

I like that tool, thanks for sharing that link and it's made in the USA.

 

[NIsaacs]

76k miles and I had a passenger side u-joint go bad. Of course it was the same week as a planned camping trip. I went to change it myself and found that my method of changing the joint allowed the yoke to bend ever so slightly that I couldn't get the last clip in place on the stub side. I was about a half a clip thickness short. A driveline shop was able to save the day by fixing and I assembled everything the night before leaving. Both joints were replaced as I figured the driver side would not be far behind. I usually try to get things fixed fixed before crunch time comes but life happens. I also pumped some grease into the wheel hub for good measure.
The new joints are Moog Precision brand which is what the local parts house had available. They do seem more substantial (very heavy and thicker) than the OEM joints.

View attachment 99410

What was the part # on the box? I don't know if that part# on the joint means anything (MG351F) but it appears that it should be a #464.

Here is a link about the caution when replacing AAM axle u-joints, read the product note, it may or may not apply in your case.

http://www.quad4x4.com/catalog/category/dodgeaam925frontaxle#cat_1485

Nick

 

[JR]

I cut mine out as well like Ozy mentioned above with a cut off wheel. Very quick and easy, especially for older universals that are rusted in place by the good ol road treatments ODOT uses.

 

[Ozymandias]

Thanks - will try that next time for removal.
So how did you install? A press? I have a large press and thought I was careful and really took my time. The driveline shop said never use a press as that is how the yokes get bent.

I cleaned the bores thoroughly by hand with sandpaper to clean rust and other residues, then did some copperpaste into them and on the new cups to.
So i could tap them in lightly with the hammer and very few force, really just tapping.

#ad

 

[jhenderson]

76k miles and I had a passenger side u-joint go bad. Of course it was the same week as a planned camping trip. I went to change it myself and found that my method of changing the joint allowed the yoke to bend ever so slightly that I couldn't get the last clip in place on the stub side. I was about a half a clip thickness short. A driveline shop was able to save the day by fixing and I assembled everything the night before leaving. Both joints were replaced as I figured the driver side would not be far behind. I usually try to get things fixed fixed before crunch time comes but life happens. I also pumped some grease into the wheel hub for good measure.
The new joints are Moog Precision brand which is what the local parts house had available. They do seem more substantial (very heavy and thicker) than the OEM joints.

View attachment 99410

You're not the only one with that exact problem. I changed a lot of joints on my 04.5 in 385,000 miles. Whenever I got caught and couldn't lay hands on an original AAM part the joints all had that same problem. I used to thin the clips on a belt sander. I never had the problem with AAM parts. I know others have had good luck with other brands but that wasn't the case with my truck.

 

[Freebore]

I cut mine out as well like Ozy mentioned above with a cut off wheel. Very quick and easy, especially for older universals that are rusted in place by the good ol road treatments ODOT uses.

What size of grinder with cutting wheel do you use? Is a 4-1/2" big enough or do you use a larger one? I've used the 4-1/2" on smaller driveshafts, but the my axles are going to need Spicers soon.

 

[JR]

I use 6" cut off wheels. Ive got a right angle air grinder also but if memory serves it wouldn't cut deep enough to do the u joint. If 4-1/2 disc won't go deep enough a 6" will work in yours without a guard. I haven't had a guard on mine in ages they just get in the way :-laf. Just need to stay clear of the hospital side

 

[Ozymandias]

I have used a 125mm Disc, don't know how much this is in imperial. But slightly larger would be easier to do the job.
115mm (4 1/2") would sure be to small, even if a new disc is used.

The hardest part is to NOT cut to deep into the yoke, that goes really fast wrong.

I used this Spicer #5006813
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1858_dana_spicer_5006813_wheel_u_joint_1485_series_fits_2003_to_2.html

 

[NIsaacs]

Here are some pic's of how I do it. Use the tools on the right, the ones on the left are just shown of what not to use. Use a hard wood block on the business end, or a socket if you encounter a real tough one, and the wood gives too much. Just get on your knees and straddle the shaft to hold it. Even with a yoke on both sides of the u-joint, a big chisel will fit in the "Vee" of the u-joint cross. I grind the tip about 1/4" wide for a good impact. This won't work if you tap tap, ya gotta hit the sucker, Hard! Note the older chisel with the mushroom head, it has been hit a few times. It makes a nice hand guard for when ya miss

The picture with the dead blow is how I install them. Just get the bearing cup started straight with a small hammer and set it down on the block and thump the yoke with the dead blow. Be sure and install the u-joint while you can and be careful of the needle bearings, they can become dis-lodged if you aren't careful. If you are doing an outside snap ring type, I use a large nut or socket to counter sink the cup. After the joint is installed, thump each yoke at the cup to "set" it, then swivel all directions to make sure it is free and not bound up.

Nick

 

[JR]

Nick, it appears as though you don't have such a thing as calcium chloride applied to your roads in liberal amounts 4-5 months out of the year :-laf

P.S. I am just a little jealous

 

[NIsaacs]

Nick, it appears as though you don't have such a thing as calcium chloride applied to your roads in liberal amounts 4-5 months out of the year :-laf

P.S. I am just a little jealous

I like it! Drive shaft looks good for an '81 Ford Bronco.

Nick

 

[crispyboy]

What was the part # on the box? I don't know if that part# on the joint means anything (MG351F) but it appears that it should be a #464.

Here is a link about the caution when replacing AAM axle u-joints, read the product note, it may or may not apply in your case.

http://www.quad4x4.com/catalog/category/dodgeaam925frontaxle#cat_1485

Nick

Yes the joints were Moog Precision 464. The driveline shop said it was the correct joint. I examined the joint when I received them back and there was no evidence of grinding anything down. I only saw a few slight jaw impressions from a vice. I inquired as to how they install joints and they apparently "tap" things into place. I was always concerned with tapping the cups in place that the needle bearings would likely get dislodged. Grease is only going to hold so much in place. I may have went with AAM joints but the repair happened when I really needed the truck and the local parts house had these in stock. Also I must have had the joints really bound up because when i got the axles back the new joints were really smooth. The truck drives and steers smoothly with no vibrations.
Looking back on my procedure I must have bent the yoke when I pressed the joints apart. I used penetrating fluid but the joints were very stubborn. I loaded them up in the press and it took a single blow from a hammer. When the joints popped loose it was loud enough to hurt your ears - "M80" loud! Oh well lessons learned - probably hurt my pride more than anything in having to show up to the driveline shop with my tail between my legs.
I'll end on a positive note that the unit bearings were easily removed by hand due to the liberal use of anti-sieze when I changed the ball joints two years ago.

 

[JR]

It's easy to apply too much force especially when them suckers are rusted in place. That's another reason why I favor the cut off wheel, you only need to press one cup at a time this way.

 

[ENafziger]

I don't have a picture in front of me, but a ball joint c-clamp tool is the PERFECT tool for this job. You can rent them free at Autozone, etc with the loan-a-tool program. The "C" is big enough to fit over our ujoints. One end of the "C" has a hole in it just large enough for the cup to press through. No beating, banging, forcing anything. I've never seen a ujoint (even rusted) that this didn't work on.

--Eric

 

[Ozymandias]

I don't have a picture in front of me, but a ball joint c-clamp tool is the PERFECT tool for this job. You can rent them free at Autozone, etc with the loan-a-tool program. The "C" is big enough to fit over our ujoints. One end of the "C" has a hole in it just large enough for the cup to press through. No beating, banging, forcing anything. I've never seen a ujoint (even rusted) that this didn't work on.

--Eric

Thats correct but even with this tool, i have that already, it aplies force to both ears of the yoke and only one side is held by the C.
So it will desytroy it if the cups are rusted in place.
So take great care if you do it with this tool.