Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Newbie confused about 1/2" fuel lines and more

[Diesel Dork]

Hello TDR members and moderators,



I'm kind of a newbie to this site and Cummins diesel. In my research I've come across a few things that I'd like to pass by the TDR members in hopes of getting a bit of advice and answers to a few questions. Keep in mind that I'm willing to be wrong on what to do and not do when it comes to my 1999 Dodge Cummins 4X2 automatic Quad cab.



It's a daily driver / work truck that pulls an equipment trailer that is under 1000 lbs. I'm not going to race it but wouldn't mind the additional power to blow past grandma doin 50 in the fast lane with my trailer and all. Here's a list of the modifications that I plan on doing; = need advice and or have questions about



1. Fass DDRP fuel pump

2. LED low fuel pressure indicator

3. K&N or AFE cold air intake box and filter

4. Fuel injector upgrade to medium - medium high out put

5. Mag-Hytec double deep transmission pan

6. Reroute the transmission fluid cooler to the front of the radiator not inside it



While doing my research on the fuel pumps I have decided on the brand Fass. I don't know if the DDRP is going to be good for my application or if I should go to the HPFP 95. In addition to that it made me curious that 1/2" lines are recommended with no mention of 1/2" valves, banjos or fittings from the tank to the fuel filter and the VP44. Am I missing something here? Are there fittings that are 1/2" that I haven't found that will get past these choke points? If so where? I'll use them and step up to the HPFP 95 with 1/2" fuel lines. I don't want to increase my fuel pressure to the point of it finding the path of least resistance and creating an unnecessary leak.



The other thing that I'm wondering is why put the pump in a location that is so hard to get to. Can it be mounted to the rail where the vibration is far less without suffering any GPH or fuel pressure loss? If I'm not mistaken these pumps pull and don't push.



Now I'd like to get schooled on K&N vs AFE and what the difference is between stage 1 and stage 2 filtering.



I'd like some advice on injectors that aren't going to blow up my engine. I'm not too worried about economy as my fuel will only cost about $1 per gallon. (keep reading, I explain my fuel cost at the end) I'm more into the additional HP without breaking my bank account.



I'm curious about getting another cooler for my automatic transmission fluid to put in front of my radiator. Is this an option?



Also if there's anything else that I'm missing in modifying my truck I'd really like to hear about it. As I said in the beginning of this note I'm very new and am open to advice.



I plan on making my own fuel by Diesel Secret Energy. (DSE) If you want to know more about DSE go to Diesel Secret Energy - Alternative Biofuel Biodiesel which is why I'm wanting to make the modifications before I run this new better fuel.

I'm thankful that I bought my first Cummins because after a few tweaks it's going to be a bullet proof truck. Oo.



Eric

 

[icman95]

I can speak to some of your concerns:



First, forget the simple low fuel pressure LED, get a full set of real gauges. You will need a fuel pressure gauge, exhaust gas temp (egt), and turbo boost gauges. These will go a long way to prevent problems-knowledge is power and these will provide that knowledge. Also, some guys invest in a trans temp gauge, too. Dodge Cummins and Ford Power Stroke Diesel Truck Accessories - Geno's Garage has a wide selection of gauges and mounts for them.



I have the FASS HPFP 95 and love it. You can mount it just about anywhere. I had a bunch of work done all at the same time, so I had my mechanic put it in then. He always installs them under the bed just behind the cab on the drivers side and has never had a problem. I didn't change my lines for this, so I guess I am a bit restricted on flow, but the thing still goes very well, so I'm not too worried about it.



When getting into injectors, you can go too big and create too much heat for you engine. This is why you need the egt gauge-to monitor temps from the extra fuel. I have a set of 75 hp from Dynomite Diesel Power in WA and like them alot. They are great people over there and have great customer service. I would have liked to go with a higher hp rating, but I do some heavy towing (22000k combined) and it gets too hot with bigger sticks. A lot of people run 100 hp or a little higher and like them without too much trouble. I have a buddy with 100 hp and he has no problems, but doesn't tow like I do. Get up near 150 hp and you'll need to change your turbo and open your wallet.



You will want boost fooling for your truck's computer. The extra fuel from the injectors will spin your turbo faster, producing more boost. When your truck's computer senses more than about 15lbs of boost, it will back off on the fuel, thinking there is something wrong, thus negating any benefit from bigger injectors. A programmer like the Smarty will do this and also help with power gains and throttle response. A fueling box like the TST or Edge and others will also do this. They add to your expenses, but are well worth it. Also, you'll want to increas the turbo's ability to make more boost by adding the j-hook device found here TST Products, Inc. - 24 Valve Dodge. Should be the last product at the bottom of the page. It will hold your wastegate closed longer to allow for more boost.



Good luck.

 

[Huff N Puff]

You are right on the money.

Hello TDR members and moderators,



I'm kind of a newbie to this site and Cummins diesel. In my research I've come across a few things that I'd like to pass by the TDR members in hopes of getting a bit of advice and answers to a few questions. Keep in mind that I'm willing to be wrong on what to do and not do when it comes to my 1999 Dodge Cummins 4X2 automatic Quad cab.



It's a daily driver / work truck that pulls an equipment trailer that is under 1000 lbs. I'm not going to race it but wouldn't mind the additional power to blow past grandma doin 50 in the fast lane with my trailer and all. Here's a list of the modifications that I plan on doing; = need advice and or have questions about



1. Fass DDRP fuel pump

2. LED low fuel pressure indicator

3. K&N or AFE cold air intake box and filter

4. Fuel injector upgrade to medium - medium high out put

5. Mag-Hytec double deep transmission pan

6. Reroute the transmission fluid cooler to the front of the radiator not inside it



While doing my research on the fuel pumps I have decided on the brand Fass. I don't know if the DDRP is going to be good for my application or if I should go to the HPFP 95. In addition to that it made me curious that 1/2" lines are recommended with no mention of 1/2" valves, banjos or fittings from the tank to the fuel filter and the VP44. Am I missing something here? Are there fittings that are 1/2" that I haven't found that will get past these choke points? If so where? I'll use them and step up to the HPFP 95 with 1/2" fuel lines. I don't want to increase my fuel pressure to the point of it finding the path of least resistance and creating an unnecessary leak.



The other thing that I'm wondering is why put the pump in a location that is so hard to get to. Can it be mounted to the rail where the vibration is far less without suffering any GPH or fuel pressure loss? If I'm not mistaken these pumps pull and don't push.



Now I'd like to get schooled on K&N vs AFE and what the difference is between stage 1 and stage 2 filtering.



I'd like some advice on injectors that aren't going to blow up my engine. I'm not too worried about economy as my fuel will only cost about $1 per gallon. (keep reading, I explain my fuel cost at the end) I'm more into the additional HP without breaking my bank account.



I'm curious about getting another cooler for my automatic transmission fluid to put in front of my radiator. Is this an option?



Also if there's anything else that I'm missing in modifying my truck I'd really like to hear about it. As I said in the beginning of this note I'm very new and am open to advice.



I plan on making my own fuel by Diesel Secret Energy. (DSE) If you want to know more about DSE go to Diesel Secret Energy - Alternative Biofuel Biodiesel which is why I'm wanting to make the modifications before I run this new better fuel.

I'm thankful that I bought my first Cummins because after a few tweaks it's going to be a bullet proof truck. Oo.



Eric

There is no point installing big lines and a 100gal per hour pump if the choke points only can flow 30 gal per hour. There are only 2 ways to improve flow. Install an in-tank pump or open up the line into the tank. The later has its problems,one of which is pulling air when the tank runs low. A problem that can destroy an injection pump,sloshing fuel can cause cavitation. An in tank pump is a solution but it has its own problems. One of which is serviceablity.

 

[KCraft]

Smarty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Diesel Dork]

Ken & other responders,



I don't know why my truck profile isn't at the bottom of my first post but I do have the X monitor by BD Power that shows info for pyrometer, transmission and turbo. I'm wondering if there is a way for it to show the fuel pressure too or that will require a separate gauge.



I have decide on the Fass 95 on the rail with a Vulcan mount kit. I'll get the machined out banjos to reduce the choke points. (not eliminate them completely) I'll have an electric fuel gauge if I can't add that info to my X monitor.



I'm going to add the PSM system to my stock box and AFE Proguard 7 filter inside. Also I'm going to put the Mag-Hytec double deep trany pan on.



All this is in addition to two new Michelins tiers. Got to have the rubber that meets the road ya know. I think that this is good enough for a start off with for now the rest of the mods like injectors, better turbo, Smarty and others will have to wait until I get more moola.



I appreciate all the great advice and I realize that it's like fannies. Everyone has one, I just need to take it all in weigh it out and make my decisions as to what's going to be right for me.

 

[jesnic]

Eric, all these posters are correct. I would like to add one more observation. When you go up in horsepower, the transmission/torque converter/valve body will not hold it for very long. Even an edge or TST that adds 100+ hp will be very hard on the trans. If you add a turbo and injectors, then the motor needs to breathe. Exhaust and intake. AFE, Confe, Workhorse-all good air systems, just a matter of oiling the filter or running a dry one. The xmonitor should have an additional fuel pressure option. I am having a raptor lift pump installed right now. The stock fuel lines are big enough, just need to replace the banjo fittings.