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How to get the turbo apart

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I need help!!!!
I just bought a wrecked 91 d-250 Cummins(non-intercooled) Auto (3spd) for the engine and transmission to swap into my 83 d-350 crewcab dually and would appreciate any words of wisdom. I plan to bomb the engine and need some advice as to what works and what dosent. Some of the more direct questions are as follows:
1. I need to replace the radiator, is the stock one adequate, or is there an upgrade available?
2. I also need to replace the fan, Should I use this as an excuse to install the horton electronic clutch model?
3. should I use the 16cm2 housing or the 14cm2 wastegated one?
4. Which injectors should I use?
5. Any tips on exhaust?
6. Are there any good shops in the Chicago area that could re-time my pump for optimum performance?
7. The under-dash part of the 91 wiring harness is missing and is n/a from mopar, does anyone know the difference between the 91 and 92 underdash harness. (the 92 is still available)
8. Is the banks intercooler any better than the stock 91 1/2-93 model?
9. I am thinking about the gearvendors o. d. for the trans, is this a good setup?

thanks in advance for any knowledge you can share with me. Murfman


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murfman, sounds like a good project. And welcome to the TDR. From your questions it's clear that you've been reading for some time and I'm sure you've noticed the answer to many of your questions is a matter of personal preferance. Just hang on and the advice should start rolling in.

One thing I would look at that you didn't mention is boxing the frame, you're gonna be carring more weight and have some frame warping power available. The standard advice is to not weld on the frame, but in this case I'd have to rethink that bit of wisdom.

Good luck, Ronnie


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"95" 3500, 4WHD, Ext cab. SLT, 5 spd, 4. 10 LSD, Rancho 9000's PacBrake, running boards, Mopar mud flaps, Isspro EGT, 50lb. boost, TST #8, no cat, muff or turbo ring.

[This message has been edited by moparguy (edited 07-18-2000). ]
 
I put Bosch 275 HP injectors in to go with the "turned up" pump and it works good. I have 3" exhaust with the Flowmaster muffler, runs cooler and gives a great exhaust tone.
Don't forget about your motor monitoring gauges.
 
Hi murfman--
I can only offer a bit of advice on your radiator question. I met a guy at May Madness with an early truck, not factory intercooled, but with a Banks package. He was experiencing over heating problems with the stock radiator. He measured my '93 stock radiator and found it to be wider and thicker (and if I remember, cross-flow instead of his down-flow). So he was going to locate a later model (factory intercooled) radiator to hopefully cure the overheat problem.

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'93 W250 Club Cab, 5 spd, stock engine, 95K miles
 
Hey Murfman!

I don't know if you have already checked out the thread by "Pfandle" titled 'Part Numbers to change Vertical Flow to a Cross Flow Radiator' (07/06/2000). The posting above from Scott Morgan just reminded me of the part numbers & thread.

Might help with the project & a potential over heating situation.

Good Luck... ... . Keeno

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1992 W250 5spd. 3. 54 gears, LSD, JRE enhanced VE Injector Pump, BD High Output Injectors, Banks "Stinger Plus" consisting of a 14cm2 wastegated housing, 3 1/2" JRE modified exhaust/muffler, pyro/boost gages, K&N, Skyjacker 2 1/2" front suspension lift to clear 305/70R/16 Goodyear MT's, Mag-Hytec, Amsoil
 
You can obtain both replacement and custom-built radiators at www.hughs.com. I got a fantastic deal for the power wagon from them.

As far as advice on the engine... If it's all the same, the wastegated housings are preferable to me - 12 or 14 seems fine. If your'e going to seriously bomb this engine, I'd go with the 14.

The injectors that have somehow come to have my name attached to them are out of a (keep the disbelief in check here) low horsepower version of your engine. But, they were designed to produce a wee bit more power than your truck, with a pump set for a LOT lower fuel. From what I can tell, they work about as well as anything I've seen or heard about. A stock pump plus these hummers produces more power than any stock 12V 2nd generation truck. Our best guesses are 220 to 250 horses.

I would be most careful about exhaust temps, and also would get advice from BD or someone similar about what torque convertor to use. I'm dead-set certain that the stock one will give you grief down the road. Also, the transmission will need a kit - dramatically raising clamping pressures, and use the "race" bands and reinforced actuator links. The transmission is super-simple in design, and any mechanically inclined individual can probably put in the kit from Mopar Performance themselves.

You WILL have heat problems with the transmission - since it is not the lockup kind. Careful selection of the torque convertor, plus the biggest mama of a transmission cooler would be in order.

The heads on the engines with 9MM injector tips are in some way less durable than the later versions. I would do whatever it took (including turning down the fuel) to keep the exhaust temperators in a very safe zone.

There, that probably mirrors what most everyone else would say... And, as they say, it's probably worth about what you paid for it. #ad
 
Hey murfman--
Another idea on your transmission-- and this might be considered heresy by some, but it may be worth considering. Check out the September 2000 issue of Four Wheeler magazine. There's an article on retrofitting the GM 4L80-E auto trans, specially built for high-performance by Jet Performance Transmissions in Huntington Beach, CA. The article mentions a retrofit pkg for the Dodge Cummins as well. The 4L80-E is an electronically-controlled overdrive, super-stout like the old Turbo 400 transmission. For further info, see "www.jetchip.com/transmissions"

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'93 W250 Club Cab, 5 spd, 3. 54, stock engine, 95K miles
 
Power Wagon,
What is the part number for "your" injector, and whrer can I get them as I would like to install them as I install the engine. Also Where can I get the 12 cm2 housing? thanks in advance
 
F. Y. I. If any one needs dash wiring for a early 91 (Non intercooled). The 92 harness will work the only difference I found was the connector for the o/d switch. The 91 harness has been discontinued by mopar.
I still need to know where to get the "PW" injectors as I would like to bomb the engine before I install it in my crew-cab. Also is anyone out there using the horton fan in a first gen. truck? If so, is it worth the money?? Which torque converter (non-lockup) Would be my best bet? (727 with gear vendors O. D. and 3. 54 gears). How much should it cost to have my injector pump rebuilt and timed?
 
A fresh rebuilt and bench turned up pump should run about $950. 00, and spill port timed about $180. 00.

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'98 2500, Cummins 12v, 5spd, 4wd, 3. 55, 300 injectors, JRE III power kit, 4" turbo to tail system, boost/pyro, did I mention 12 valves? GOT DIESEL?
 
Hey guys, I'm still here. Here is what Ive come up with, I am going to replace the trans with a new 47rh from chrysler. I am going to install an aftermarket torque converter and valve body (I am doing this as the trans cost me 1800. 00 compared to the 2300. 00 for the over-drive+rebuild of the 727) The question I now have is this weekend I went to the sheid diesel rally and talked to another first genner(early pre-91 1/2 with banks intercooler) who said he tried th pw injectors and lost power compared to the stock (non-intercooled) versions. Also I still need to know about converting to a cross-flow radiator, I found the part #'s but is that just the stock 92-93 radiator, as my core support is different than the later style. What else is involved in the swap. One last note, Does anyone know who had the white first-gen crewcab at the sheid show this last weekend? thanks in advance murfman!!!
 
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