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No Brakes after front caliper replacement

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Stock 'corrective' wheel spacer and big tires.

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I just replaced my rotors,pads, and front calipers this weekend. So I added fluid to the master cylinder pumped on the brakes about 30 times until I finally got some pressure, and as I'm holding it, it just goes all the way too the floor. So I pump it again, same thing again. I don't know whats going on. Next I open the bleeder valve on the left front caliper to see if i'm getting fluid, and I am,by gravity flow. do the same thing on the passengers side also, same thing. So I have my friend pump it again while i'm at the bleeder, the fluid pressure is the same with pressure on the pedal as it is with the pedal depressed all the way to the top. I thought that when I went with the new calipers that the old master cylinder didn't have enough pressure to push the new calipers, and was bypassing, so I went and got a new master cylinder today, bench bleed it free of air. Installed it and got the same results as with the old master cylinder







Man this getting me ticked off:mad: :eek: Oo.

Is my ABS or porportioning valves gone bad. Ive never had this much problem before? :confused:
 
When you replaced the caliper, did you pinch the rubber line? If so the line could have collapsed internally while still looking good on the outside.



Pressure bleeding the brakes may help. Sometimes there is some air trapped in the system that is very hard to get out without a pressure bleeder.
 
Hi Cooker'

I didn't pinch the line off. When I first broke the seal on the copper washers , It had a good amount of pressure behind it, then it just had gravity flow.







Today I tried bleeding the brakes a little diffrent. I opened each bleeder, one at a time , having my friend push the pedal all the way as far as it would go , then I'd close the bleeder. Both front calipers appeared to be free of air, but didn't have the pressure that the rear wheel cylinders had going too them. The only one that I could not get a solid stream of fluid from was the right rear. It continously had the same amount air spitt out, time and time again.



My rear brakes are applying, but not until I bottom the pedal out almost too the floor :rolleyes: The front brakes aren't even grabbing at all:confused:



Looks like I'm going to make an appointment with the *******, and let them hash it out. I'm burned out on it



The ******* charges $76. 00 for a diognostic check, so what the heck. I'll just have to bite the bullet:mad:
 
Re: Hi Cooker'

Originally posted by Emerald5. 9

Today I tried bleeding the brakes a little diffrent. I opened each bleeder, one at a time , having my friend push the pedal all the way as far as it would go , then I'd close the bleeder.



That is how brakes are normally bled, if you were doing it any other way like letting up on the pedal before the bleeder was closed or just trying to use gravity I would say you have massive amounts of air in the system and you have to bleed them until it is all out. I've used the good portion of a bottle of fluid doing this properly. You've got to figure the calipers are empty and since you opened the bleeders and let them gravity drain the lines are empty too, better get a big bottle of fluid. When you pumped them up the first time and felt some pressure that is when you should have held the peddle down and had someone open the bleeders till your foot hit the floor and then close them, do it again and you're done. I would hazzard to guess that it is an air problem and with a little patience and another person you can bleed them and get them working.
 
I too think you still have an air problem.



There was a recent thread about the proper bleeding procedure. There is a proper sequence to use. I would try one more time before you bring it to the dealer.
 
If you were trying to "bleed" the brakes as you described in your thread, there is no way you would ever get a " hard" firm pedal. Do you happen to have a manual? If so they will describe the correct way to bleed them. If not, I would go and get one.
 
I've bleed many brake systems in the past, and have never ran into this problem before.



The most common way that I have done it is pump the brakes until it firms up some,

(of course your not going to get all the air out of the system the first time) then open the bleeder and watch the fluid come out with bubbles and do it over and over until you have nothing but clear fluid coming out.



I have ran almost 3 bottles of brake fluid through the intire system doing it this way the first time.



Now. . the second way I tried bleeding the system was: Open the bleeder about 1/8 of a turn just enough to keep the screw from having to much play, have somone push the pedal down slowly until it bottomed out, then shut the bleeder, then release the pedal.



I get the same results both ways.
 
It sounds silly but take a look at the rears! You may have poped a wheel cylinder seal. When I worked at ford I had an issue on a 2500 that we serviced that was bought from us and had an issue when the parking brake is set the rear shoes are forced outwards )Naturally) and when front brake service is complete and you go to bleed (First firming the pedal) the wheel cylinder pistons would slap out to meet the shoe landings and the internal seal would flip up on its end causing a small leak but enough to set the proportioning valve on its ear!

Man it drove me to drink! So after rebuilding the rear wheel cylinders I was good to go!
 
There's no need to push all that fluid through. Pump the brakes up hard and hold the pedal down hard. Then go to a wheel and just crack the bleeder for a second - to let air ONLY out. You shouldn't have to go around more than twice if whoever is on the pedal pushes hard and holds hard when told to.



If you can't get a crackling noise from air being pushed out, start the truck and try it using the power brakes.



Otherwise use a power bleeder.
 
Stupid question but are the new calipers installed on the correct side with the bleed screws on the high side of the caliper?
 
Don't ask me how I know :rolleyes: but the lines are long enough, at least on the passenger side. Fortunately I caught it before I but the wheels back on. Wrong part in the right box, I assumed the box was right :rolleyes:
 
Guess what Guys!

I took my truck to a local mechanic shop and and told them what my problem was: 1. Pedal going to the floor, 2. Ran 3cans of fluid through all bleeders. 3. and still getting air at right rear wheel cylinder and no brakes.



The guy at the mechanic shop calls me back about 1 Hr later and said that he found the problem, and I go what was it, he said that I had Installed the calipers on the wrong wheels.



Illflem' you got the million dollar Question Wright. :D The mechanic said that I would have never got all of the air out , because of the bleeders being on the bottom, intead of on top.



That day I was working on my truck, and I was exhausted from installing a new front axle seal for 3. 5 Hrs , the seal keeped getting cocked too one side untill I finally got it started in the axle bore sleeve, man what a Pita that was. On top of that it was cool and drizzling rain.
 
Re: Hi Cooker'

Originally posted by Emerald5. 9



The ******* charges $76. 00 for a diognostic check, so what the heck. I'll just have to bite the bullet:mad: [/B]



That's sounds like about the price of one of those power bleeders. :rolleyes:

I sure like mine.
 
Well... I'm pretty close back to normal, except my brake booster needs replacing. I've got brakes now, but I have to push the pedal harder to stop.



I'm just happy to have my truck back:D
 
Glad to hear everything is almost back to normal, thank you for coming back and telling us the outcome, it may save someone some headaches in the future.
 
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