No Heat!

[Mbschmidt]

Well, my '03 has plenty of heat in the heater core, the fan is blowing, and the defrost and vent work well, but there is no heat on the floor. I'm sure its a control problem either in the dash or in the heater box, but before I go poking around aimlessly I was wondering if anyone had any ideas/experience.



Thanks in advance!

Matt

 

[ETurner]

no heat

I have an 03 also. My truck was doing the same thing. This is what works for me. After you start your truck turn the temp knob all the way to cold than all the way to hot. If your problem is like mine you will have heat. I think I need a new blend door. I think in the spring I will replace all the doors with heatertreater doors. You can check them out at heatertreater.com. Hope this helps you out. When I turn my truck off I can hear one of the doors close or open,I'm not sure.

 

[Mbschmidt]

Thanks. I checked out their site (heatertreater.net by the way, not .com) and it sounds like my problem is "mode door 2. " It's placement is shown in the last photo on this page: Dodge Ram 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, blend door auto AC heat replacement part

Has anyone got experience with this procedure, since they say you will have to remove "the dash and metal framework" to get at this door. Upon watching some videos they have on the site, the tech in the video calls this fix "very difficult" and involves cutting out a spot weld, as well as actually cutting a portion of the metal bracket behind the cup holder and bending the bracket out. There is no mention, however, on just how to fix it back. I can't imagine welding that bracket inside the cab would be a good idea though.

 

[Dbonzi]

You mean

Auto replacement part, blend door fix, Heat, AC replacement parts

 

[monkeyman]

I have a 2002 and thought it was my blend door and did the fix no difference. So I took both hoses off the heater core, first ( On cold Engine!) blew air in outlet of heater core to blow out gook, then poured bleach in with funnel and let it sit twenty minutes or so. Then blew that out same way. Poured in water to flush beach out, then blew that out. Then poured antifreeze in to core, re-connected, now heat is as NEW!
Rick

 

[ssanders60]

No floor heat

I'm having the same problem with my '03 quad cab 2500, no floor heat.

I've tried working the dial back and forth, also the dial for hot and cold,

nothing seems to turn heat to the floor.



This just happened this winter. Since I live in Florida, will just leave it

as it is until something else happens to the system. The dealers charge

$1,000 just to take the dash off. This would be the 2nd time the dash has been taken off, the blending door has been repaired once before.

 

[Kry226]

Ask and yee shall receive:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...93-hvac-heater-treater-doors-replacement.html

 

[Mbschmidt]

Thanks Kry! I searched for a post like yours and couldn't find it, thanks for bringing it to my attention. Even though pulling the dash and draining down the a/c & cooling systems would be a pretty big project. I can see where trying to do it in the truck via heater treater's method would take just as much time, and probably more aggravation! I think I will order all the doors and replace them like you did in the near future, as I'm getting tired of having cold feet and a hot face!

 

[Kry226]

Thanks. By the way, almost a year later, they are still going strong. Good luck, it's well worth it.

 

[Blakers]

My heater died at 20,000 miles and they pulled it out and fixed the doors under warranty. Then it did it again out of warranty - wanted over 800 bucks to fix, but I called the 800 DC number and got them to do it for $100. Now, 5 years later, it's bad again. I have heat and defrost at the same time and am living with it until I get the time to put in the heater treater doors I ordered. My cousin did his and said it was not a bad job. He said most of the dash will pull back and you can slide the heater box out. No need to disconnect everything. Drop the steering column down on the seat, pull out a few screws and slide the dash back. I haven't done it myself, so I don't know. At least you don't have to drain the radiator as you will only lose a little antifreeze from the heater core and hose.

~Blake~

 

[nauidvr1]

I'm having the same problem going on two winters now. In the last 2 weeks I have flushed the system several times, flushed the heater core, used Prestone Super Flush and drove truck with flush chemical in system for 10 hours. I have flushed the system so many times, I know its clean. Changed the thermostat. I have even used a clear discharge hose to inspect all fluid flushes as they were coming out of radiator. I have captured over 60 gallons of my flush water and all of it is clean as a whistle! I have replaced all my air box doors (Re-Circ, Mode 1, Mode 2 & Blend Doors) with the metal ones made by Heater Treater dot net.

I'm at my wits end and I'm literally freezing in my cab!

 

[Bob4x4]

Don't overlook both the control head and the actuators. Because some members change a part and get the desired results does not guaranty your truck has the same failure. Test don't guess !!

 

[Cosmo]

Yeah, what Bob said. Make sure you verify the problem before throwing money at it.

Having said that, I've torn the HVAC system out of 3rd gens before, no cutting of welds required.

 

[Blakers]

Are the heater hoses hot? Pull the heater hose off the back of the head and start the truck to make sure all entrapped air is gone. Coolant should stream out of this port when you start the engine.

 

[Bob4x4]

Yeah, what Bob said. Make sure you verify the problem before throwing money at it.



Having said that, I've torn the HVAC system out of 3rd gens before, no cutting of welds required.

I think the cutting was some type of hack job to save rolling the dash back-It would probably take more time than doing it the right way

 

[nauidvr1]

All actuators motors were tested. I'm now looking at the control head as possible problem.

 

[Blakers]

My cousin and I did my heater doors (Heater Treater) a couple weeks ago. We pulled the dash and removed the heater box completely. All went smoothly. It was not that hard once we learned how to do it. No cutting and taping. Worked fine afterwards.



A couple points of advice: if you want to lubricate the door hinge points in the heater box, don't use grease that stinks when it gets hot! And when you are refilling your radiator, pull the heater hose off the head to let the air out of the system. Sometimes it's really tough to get the air out of these.

 

[Prairie Dog]

All actuators motors were tested. I'm now looking at the control head as possible problem.

Just curious how you test the actuators?

BTW, they still work fine when the doors are busted.

 

[Cosmo]

I think the cutting was some type of hack job to save rolling the dash back-It would probably take more time than doing it the right way

Ah, right. Unbolting everything then swinging the dash back on the passenger's side - strapping it up out of the way helps a lot.



While you're in there, verify the foam between segments is intact, and reseal them if not.

 

[nauidvr1]

Just curious how you test the actuators?
BTW, they still work fine when the doors are busted.

First tested them by attaching a 12 volt battery and watched for movement, then reversed polarity and made sure they reversed direction. Today, I had them tested at a dealer with the DRBIII scan tool along with a door recalibration.

I also replaced the control head (before going to the dealer) and did not fix my issue. Dealer seems to think the heater core is the issue. They are saying it is possible that the heater core has good flow, but several of the channels could still be blocked. In other words - the heater core is like a radiator in design and I could have good flow because the water entering (when flushing or during normal operation) maybe be able to pass thru a few clear channels and exit, which would look like a good flowing heater core, but not allow a good radiation of heat because it's not flowing thru the whole heater core.