Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) No power to the ground.

[DieseLamprich]

Just the other day I was leaving work with a 20' car trailer and when I went to take off from a stop light the engine reved up and I went nowhere for about a good minute. Finally there was some drive power to the wheels and i was able to pull over. I then unhooked the trailer and was able to pull about ten feet forward before I lost drive power again. Luckily I was only a quarter mile away from the shop I work at.



Today I went about trying to figure out what is going on with my transmission. When I first started the truck after it had been sitting overnight I was able to drive it into the shop. However after it had been running for a a few minutes it lost all drive power through all the forward gears and reverse. It felt as if the transmission was not shifting into gear at all. I hooked it up to our scanner and there was a code for TCC circuit open or short but believe this code is a result of the mystery switch that my father in law installed when he owned this truck. I then proceeded to drop the pan to see if there was any thing going on internally. I found that the fluid had almost a burnt electrical smell but it did not appear to burnt or discolored. I then noticed a slight hum coming from the governor pressure solenoid and found it to be extremely hot, the key was in the run position at this time.



I'm wondering if the solenoid is not letting pressure build enough to shift it into gear. I'm going to buy a new governor solenoid tomorrow but would like to get some input before spending a hundred bucks at the dealer. Any help on the subject would be immensely appreciated as I make a lot of my wages hauling with this truck.

 

[KBurgoyne]

if there was no snap sound, theres probably no fluid pressure in the valve body to get the transmission in gear.

 

[DieseLamprich]

I'm pretty positive that the governor solenoid is bad. I cleaned out the little screen part at the tip and reinstalled it to see what would happen. with the key on it started making this really fast paced erratic clicking noise. Would the failure of this solenoid cause the symptoms I have described above?

 

[budnate]

-take a volt meter and see what the DC signal to the solanoid is, should be 5VDC



-you may be burning the parts up with to much voltage



-if your over 5vdc you need to split the orange wire with blue strip at the pc and back the voltage back to about 4. 80dc



-seems the stock solanoids are crap these days, I went through 2 recently and one new out of the box was bad last week,



I found this guy selling heavy duty units, installed one last weekend so far its working well. I went with the master kit the harness and all new componets.



Automotive Transmission Electronics Specialists





-also a fyi, it appears as these rigs age more the wiring harness in the pan is going bad getting crispy, yours may be bad and burnt and shorting 2 wires together.



B.

 

[cerberusiam]

Would the failure of this solenoid cause the symptoms I have described above?

No, you could disconnect the harness and the truck would still move. It would be stuck in one gear but would move.



All that solenoid does is provide balance pressure to the TV pressure to define the shift points. If it didn't raise the gov pressure the truck would start in drive. It would feel doggy but would always move. If it went high it stay in 1st gear and not shift.



The solenoid and transducer about $100 online, do not buy at the dealer if you like to keep your money.



You probably need to run the pressure tests on the test ports to see if that will tell you anything.

 

[DieseLamprich]

I checked the voltage at the solenoid plug yesterday and it was reading twelve volts. I also checked the voltage at the transducer and it was five volts. I then noticed that a resistor had been spliced in line of the power source for the transducer. I was wondering if the same could be done for the power source for the governor solenoid.

 

[DieseLamprich]

"if your over 5vdc you need to split the orange wire with blue strip at the pc and back the voltage back to about 4. 80dc" -budnate-

I'm not entirely clear on what you mean by this. When you say pc do you mean the trucks pcm. Would appreciate some clarification. Thanks everyone for their help so far. I'm currently borrowing my boss' stock powerstroke and it is really depressing.

 

[budnate]

are you seeing these codes with your DBII reader,



1763 gov sensor V-to high,



1762, gov press sensor offset improper voltage



if your not you should be fine, if you still want to check things out.



on the firewall behind the air cleaner is the pcm, the middle connector will have the orange wire, rather than hack your harness, pierce it with a pin and take a voltage reading with the key on, should be 5VDC.



the wire is solid orange,,brain cramp about it being 2 colors.



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[DieseLamprich]

Thanks budnate for that pic and all the info so far. I did not get any of those codes when I ran a scan on the truck. The only codes pulled were tcc circuit open or short and egr circuit open or short and these are both accounted for so far. I'm going to mess with it tomorrow at work and I will check voltage at that orange wire. My parts will be in tomorrow and I would like to make sure that circuit wont fry my new solenoid.

 

[budnate]

no problem , hopefully the parts get you going... if you have not done so, adj your bands while your under the truck only takes about 15 mins.



peace, B.

 

[DieseLamprich]

Shes back on the road thanks to a new upgraded solenoid and transducer. Its so great to be driving my own truck again and a big relief that my transmission isn't dead. Thanks again to everyone for their time and info. This community is really an amazing resource.