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92 Ram CTD. Truck started, put in reverse truck died. Only power to truck is to the headlights. Replaced the switch (mechanical and computerized parts) still no power. Any ideas?

Greg Davis
 
Greg,



Do you have power to the dash lights and radio? Brake and backup lights? Is this truck an automatic? Battery up or low?
 
I don't have a wiring diagram for a '92 so this is just a guess. If you can find no fuse burnt then the ignition switch is a prime suspect. It's time to get a meter out and start following the juice until it quits. It sounds like the ignition on circuits are out which would make me look at the ignition switch. It could be that the hot wire to the ignition switch came off. I dunno what else to look at without a diagram.
 
There should be five fusible links under the hood on the left wheel house. Good place to start. I recommend using a 12v test light, a meter is a good tool but does not exercise (no current flow) a circuit. In looking at the diagram it doesn't jive with what you have working and not working in relation to the power distribution.



Another thing you can check is take your test light and check all fuses in the dash fuse panel for power. Report back which ones do and which ones don't.



Maybe go to your local libray and sign out a manual and check out the wiring diagrams.



Wayne
 
Situation at present. Starter is good. No power to turn signals, radio, or starter. Have power to dome light, cargo light, emergency flashers, headlights, and park lights. Could it be a fusable link? How do you check them?

Greg
 
Now we're starting to narrow it down.



Three things are fed by this fusible link.

1. Starter circuit- we know this is dead.

2. Fuses #1,2,3- Feeding the back up lamps and a whole bunch of ind lights in the IP: Wait to start, red brake light, water in fuel light (to name a few) Do these work?

3. Fuses #7,8,9,10- We know t-signals (fuse 9)and radio (fuse 8)don't work, How about the wipers (fuse 10)?



If all these are dead go check the fusible link. It can be tested by piercing the insulation just after the link ends (black lump on the wire) after the wire turns into a red (with NO tracer) 12 guage wire. With the test light grounded, it should light. If it does it isn't the problem and we need to look further "upstream". If no light, replace it with another fusible link wire (available at any parts store). Make sure it is soldered in and shrink tube or tape all connections. Also take and put RTV on any hole that you made with the test light.



Post any questions.

Wayne
 
Are the fusable links the the plugs that dead-end into relay looking things on the left fender well? Sorry to sound so dumb. Haven't located a book on the truck yet but have been trying.

Greg
 
The fusable links looks just like a wire,usually connected to a main power point,near the battery,just not sure exactly where on your truck. The other end will have a large plastic piece,or a piece of shrink tube on it where it joins into the circuit. Look for blistering or bubbling of the insulation,and gently try to pull on it,if it is burnt out it will just stretch the insulation,as there is no wire left inside.



Try not to go poking into too many wires as the holes lift will allow the wire to corrode. If you do have to,DON'T use silicone as it is highly corrosive and will eat the wire. Use a liquid electrical tape,or slice open a piece of larger diameter shrink tube (must be adhesive lined,and shrink it over till it seals.
 
Oliver88,

Good to hear it's fixed.



Bigramguy,

Thanks for the correction, I usually end up using RTV cause it handy (bad habit) but haven't ever experienced any problems. I've had RTV all over my trailer harness on my '86 Dodge for almost five years.



Wayne
 
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