NO START again but not the same old

[ryecreek]

UPDATE NO START again but not the same old *FIXED*

for starters i know bout the injecctors. been there done that. had a no start bout 3k ago pulled all 6 had em tested. had 1 iffy on return bypass and nozzle spraying like crap. al the rest tested good so i bought the 1



NOW 3K later my truck dont wanna start cold!

only overnight does it do the no start deal morning temps have been around 20 deg. as far as checking the grid heaters i have not, but i can hear the relay snap with the wait to start light, but i dont hear the click click click as the ligh cycles



the only big difference i have noticed (once im running) i i get a REALLY bad clatter if i accelerate cold(2nd gear leaving a stop) OR, I have lugged it on purpuse by skipping a gear (3-4) AND IT CLATTERS LIKE A FERD.

after a cold start its fine starts in 2-3 revs even after 6-7hrs at 40deg

but the clatter stays (even at operating temps) hwy speed i *think* i hear a bit of clatter(like i said i THINK could just be me)



could my fca be toast?

time to buy a full set of injectors#@$%!?



BTW my morning hard start is 2-3 15 sec. cranks and knocks for the first fire

ive tryed cycling the heaters twice and cranking while the lift pump is cycling too

Im baffled i ordered the tools to do the return test and the cap for the rail but i guess i gotta work on it in the cold as it starts all day after a cold start

 

[JJPage]

Once you have the rail capped, that will eliminate that possibility. You have had your injectors out once... right? If your cross tubes are leaking, you may not be able to maintain enough rail pressure to fire.



You can start by unplugging the wire harness to your FCA, this will max your rail pressure to about 27k at idle, do not drive it this way, just to test. If it starts, then you know low rail pressure is a factor. WHY?



Retorque all your cross tubes, if one of them is leaking, it reduces pressure enough to cause long crank times, or no start. It could also mean a faulty FCA, but I believe many FCA's are replaced for no good reason.



If it still does not start after retorquing cross tubes, you may have a cracked injector.



Do you have a rail pressure gauge, that you can see while cranking? I have a Dipricol gauge, but my truck always starts before the gauge registers, but I have been led to believe they will accurately display rail pressure while cranking.



I believe sag2 stated the required pressure for starting in a similar thread, maybe he will chime in.

 

[ryecreek]

sorry ive been out of town

righ now im confident in the connector tube tq i did it myself with a recently calibrated tq wrench only 3k ago less than 1 month

bout 50 out right now gonna see if it starts

if not i have a spare fca (from a need less change) that was fine i'll try it

dont understand the disconnecting the fca deal? if it starts that would equal??????

bad fca or injector?

can borrow a pressure relief off an 05 guessing they have the same PN# or close enough for testing.

just that clatter i'm getting is odd been down with bad injectors twice and never had that problem. thats why i really wonder bout the fca.

if it wasnt for only the cold no start (starts when its been started once) and the clatter i would already have puled al 6 and busted for a new set

ill check the grid too with a temp gun (before after) and btw no codes

 

[ryecreek]

ok maybe not 50 prob closer to 65 deg out

pre cranking tests:

before base temp at grid housing 66 connect volt meter cycle grid, voltage 10. 8 for the cycle post cycle temp78deg. connect other hot, cycle grid 10. 8v again post temp(2 cycles) 97deg. Guessing the grids are fine.

go to start let the lift pumps run for 1-2sec as i do on every start and the SOB fired after about 4-5 revolutions. turn it right off starts fine.

so ill try in the am when its cold.

ill check the grid temp in the am too

 

[ryecreek]

no codes didnt get that out til post #4

will try the swapped parts in the am when its cold but they said its only gonna be in the mis 30's in the morning

hope it stays consistant with the cold no start

 

[ryecreek]

Once you have the rail capped, that will eliminate that possibility. You have had your injectors out once... right? If your cross tubes are leaking, you may not be able to maintain enough rail pressure to fire.



You can start by unplugging the wire harness to your FCA, this will max your rail pressure to about 27k at idle, do not drive it this way, just to test. If it starts, then you know low rail pressure is a factor. WHY?



Retorque all your cross tubes, if one of them is leaking, it reduces pressure enough to cause long crank times, or no start. It could also mean a faulty FCA, but I believe many FCA's are replaced for no good reason.



If it still does not start after retorquing cross tubes, you may have a cracked injector.



Do you have a rail pressure gauge, that you can see while cranking? I have a Dipricol gauge, but my truck always starts before the gauge registers, but I have been led to believe they will accurately display rail pressure while cranking.



I believe sag2 stated the required pressure for starting in a similar thread, maybe he will chime in.

you nailed it!Oo.

all the cross tubes were under tourque. would not think they would come loose in that short of time, and probably didnt. i was reviewing the directions i have and it says to finger tight the injector hold-downs then tq the cross tubes then tq the hold-downs and thats it. i would recomend a re-tourque of the tubes after that unless thats the right way anyhow. it still would not hurt.

loose tubes makes sence for a cold start. just enuogh leak when cold(cold=contraction) the once slightly warmed things expand to seal the leak even a real long crank i guess generate enough friction to expand and sea the tube(s) up.

starts perfect now and the clatter is gone

thanks guys free fixes sure are nice

 

[ryecreek]

just a thought but if the cross tubes leak where does the fuel go? in the oil i assume time for a oil CHANGE?