Here I am

no start issue, need some help.

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I had to go to dealer yesturday due to my truck wouldn't start, acted like a dead battery sort of, when i pushed the button, the starter would engage, but no crank, I also lost the entire evic screen, nothing would work, kept trying and finally it started, I drove straight to the dealer, and after 2 hrs, the said the PCM and ACM, had to reprogram them, i don't know why???? they checked and tested the battery and charging system, all was good.

I noticed also this morning when i started it i crank slow, which then it quick flash on evic, to service 4 wheel drive , and then another quick flash of service electronic brake system, So my question is would a dragging starter cause a voltage drop to the pcm, and it hickups?
I have called the dealer with this question, still waiting for an answer.
 
Recently I had the same symptoms, i.e. push button and no start. It turned out that the two batteries combined had less cranking current than one good battery. Take the truck to somewhere that sells batteries and have them do a cranking current load test.

I also had the odd messages after starting. I paid $100 for diagnosis which turned up nothing. If the battery is low or some other thing is causing the slow crank, the voltage is low and may cause problems with the computers.

My opinion, you need new batteries and that may clear everything up.

Al
 
I do appreciate the answer, I'm thinking the same thing, I will do just that and let you know what come of it.
Thanks again
 
Well I got a call back, and they agree that there is a draw on the batteries, so tomorrow, I'm going to dealer to have them check everything, I was told that everything will be covered under my extended warranty, so that really makes me happy.
 
If you can try putting a battery charger on it before you attempt to crank and see what it does. I have had similar things happen with a late model ford and it was from bad batteries. Truck was 2 years old at the time.
Matt
 
well the test i did yesturday morning is i plugged up truck to keep it warm until in the morning, i then went out and started it, no problem, cranks right up, so im in agreement that the batteries are my problem,
Late saturday evening i took it to the dealer, when i went out to start it with out being plugged in, so the grid heater would come on, sure enough, the dash flashed agian and it took me 2 times to get it to start,
so it is at the dealer now, and they said they would call me on monday with the results
 
Well i have one battery that is bad, and one that is marginal, so they are installing 2 new batteries, but I have to pay for them, I was past the 36000 mile warranty period, so 189.00 each is what they are charging me, they have to order them, so it will be Thursday before I get the truck back, they are also doing the recall on the SCR, so that will be done on Wednesday.
So thanks to all that helped out with this problem.
 
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Twice now I've had atough time starting when very cold. Never had an issue before the Alt burned up I'm wondering if one of the Batts got damaged?
 
UPDATE: I got the truck back today, 2 new batteries, reprogram of PCM acm, my radio software, they also did the scr, so it runs great so far.
Check the batteries if you are having this problem with yours. The dealer did me ok on the cost of the batteries, sold them to me 40.00 off each battery, so that did help the sting a little.
Thanks to all that gave me the push to the problem
 
Just a thought, if the dealer had actually checked and tested the battery like they told you they did the first time, you would only have made one trip to the dealer. Might be time for a different service department/ dealer. The problem I guess is, there are no more mechanics at dealers, they are technicians, the younger ones are not being trained how to trouble shoot problems, just operate diagnostic
equipment . If the computer doesn't know, they are lost. I know I am going to probably get ripped for this one, but I deal with this type of scenario everyday, I deal with tech's everyday and this is the biggest problem I have, is training them to think on their own, and not rely solely on the computer..

Just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions.

John
 
My 2015 lost it marbles the other morning as well with 36,700 miles on it. The starter would click, then it would go through every error message in the book. I jump started it with my wifes VW Rabbit, much to my chagrin, and drove it to the dealer where they tested both batteries and replaced them under warranty for $50.
 
Just a thought, if the dealer had actually checked and tested the battery like they told you they did the first time, you would only have made one trip to the dealer. Might be time for a different service department/ dealer. The problem I guess is, there are no more mechanics at dealers, they are technicians, the younger ones are not being trained how to trouble shoot problems, just operate diagnostic
equipment . If the computer doesn't know, they are lost. I know I am going to probably get ripped for this one, but I deal with this type of scenario everyday, I deal with tech's everyday and this is the biggest problem I have, is training them to think on their own, and not rely solely on the computer..

Just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions.

John
Well i do have to agree with you, they did admit they checked the charging system (alternator) not the batteries

My 2015 lost it marbles the other morning as well with 36,700 miles on it. The starter would click, then it would go through every error message in the book. I jump started it with my wifes VW Rabbit, much to my chagrin, and drove it to the dealer where they tested both batteries and replaced them under warranty for $50.


I was hoping i would get that lucky, they told me that i was 4500 miles past my 36000, and even though i bought the extened warranty, it does not cover batteries.
But it running great now
 
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