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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) No start-No start-No start.......Start?

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I have a 00 QC 4x4 5spd, w no mods becides a FP A-piller guage, I ran into this problem late last year. With the truck warm from a highway trip I stopped at my friends house, shut the truck off, went inside for a little while and when I came back out to start the truck, it wouldnt start. . I didnt look at the FP guage like I usually do so I couldnt tell it the lift pump cycled. I cycled the key again and it didnt that time. . I got out and the only thing I could think to do was open the bleeder on the filter housing to mabey drain a little fuel and see what happens. I got the pump to cycle after a few minutes of dicking around with that and she fired up. I have run into this problem 5 or 6 times since with no rhyme or reason that I can tell. I have nervously replaced the lift pump twice because the truck was pulling below 4psi, but even with a new liftpump it still did it? The constant seems to be that the truck is warm when it dose it but not always hot. It has happened with various levels of fuel in the tank, and various ambient temps. The truck has not thrown any codes... . Dose anyone have any insight to this problem? Dose anyone know if TSB 18-24-99 in some strange way would have anything to do with this?
 
Just went thru that problem, TSB 18-015-REV. A

Reflash the ECM for hard start/no start hot. Seems winter blend fuel makes the issue worse, adding additives does not help, but the reflash worked great:)
 
Sweet, thanks I appreciate it. I'm gunna try to reflash for 18-24-99 and 18-015-00. We'll see what happens, I'll post the results.
 
My 99 has done this. First I thought it was the ignition switch. But now it seems to be the clutch switch. Intermittent problem seems not to care what temp it is, although it seem to do it more when the engine is warm or hot.
 
draymorris,



Is teh engine turning over and not firing, or just not turning over?

IT might be the starter contacts... ?



Merrick
 
Fortunately fellas she's a crankin son-a-the @$%#! Its a running issue. From all the talk about starters I cant believe that I havent had that problem yet though.
 
correyallen,

Let us know how the flash treats you.



draymorris,

could be the clutch safety switch. It's not too hard to bypass, just get a flashlight and crawl under there, looking up, and you should see a plug going into the the clutch master cylinder rod.



Merrick
 
I unhooked that badboy the first day I had the truck, i'm all for safety but I cant stand those clutch switches!!! I'll giver the flash when I get ashore and be sure to let you guys know how it turns out. It might take a few weeks of driving, sometimes it wont display the symptoms for a while... ... Thanks for all the support
 
#@$%!Update:I dropped off my truck at the stealership the other day and they performed the two reflashes discussed above. I went to pick it up yesterday and went to start it the lift pump didnt cycle... I waited for the start light to go out and I fired her up(11psi@ idle). I let it warm up and took it for a ride just long enough to confirm that it was pulling to 0psi@wot..... So, I cant tell you weather or not the reflash worked because I left the truck at the dealership so they could confirm the fuel pressure (I didnt have any time to mess w it myself). The lift pump that is in the truck now I installed 2 days b4 I left on my last boat trip and it was pulling down to +-6psi @wot then. . This is the second Napa lift pump in 2mos that has done this, good performance when installed only to take a !@#$ a short time after... And, this is the 3rd lift pump in 6mos. I really dont mind changing these things out and they have been on warranty but dose anyone recognise this pattern? Two bad pumps? I rember that somone told me about a "sock" on the pick up in the fuel tank, could that be crushed? I understand the ins and outs of the carter and its alternatives, I think I might try a airtex next, I wouldnt mind throwing a pump at it every year but this 2week @#$! has got to stop. How has anyones luck been with stock location lift pump alternitives?
 
I have had excellent results using the stock pump, (not the intank p. o. s. ) Vulcan performance set me up getting rid of all the restrictive banjo bolts in the fuel lines and put on the big line kit with a relocated pump. Man!what a difference, I know the pumps not having to work as hard and now pushes fuel as it's designed for. I cannot pull down the fuel pressure ever. Even hauling heavey up hills, it's a steady 14 psi all the time.

I think DC knew the pump was origonally designed to push fuel so they like the restrictions with the banjos. LOL
 
Corey,



Dumb question:



Did you replace the fuel filter each time you changed out the lift pump?



I ask because good pressure at idle and nearly zero at WOT can be a symptom of a partially clogged fuel filter. I had the exact same experience as you after replacing my lift pump with 12,000 miles on the existing fuel filter. I pulled the fuel filter out, it really didn't appear dirty, but replaced it anyway, and instantly the idle pressure increased by about 2 psi (to 17. 5 psi warm) and WOT now won't drop below 7 psi warm.



Basically the lesson I learned from this experience is the fuel filter needs to be changed with every oil change. You just have no idea what kind of microscopic sized stuff is being cleaned out of your constantly recirculating fuel!



Good luck,



John L.
 
Hmmm, ok, how much did the set up coast you? Were you experienceing any of the trouble that I described?



I paid about $50. 00 for the larger draw straw and about another $200. 00 for the big line and pump relocation kit to get rid of the banjo bolts. That was also to cover some labor as Eric at Vulcan gave me a hand at his place of business.



The only symptom I had similar to yours is the fuel pressure draw down on acceleration. After doing the fuel system mod I cannot draw it down under any conditions. The higher constant f/p allowed me to put on a n additional pre lift pump w/s primary 30 micron fuel filter. This helps the stock lift pump too.



Clean fuel is very important in any case, as well as a primary filter BEFORE the l/p but the vp44 needs it very clean as well.



BTW, my new primary filter allows me to take out those sometimes clogging intank screens too. The intank screens make for a very poor primary filter.



I suspect that you have this problem of loosing fuel prime because you have an air leak somewhere. New fuel lines (big line relocate kit) will solve alot of your problem. However, there are no guarantees just a better set-up.



Please keep us posted on your truck's progress. Alot of guys never seem to tell what thier solution was after they fix it.
 
:cool:Shure did J, I'm pretty religous about the maint. on my truck. Shell low soot 15/40 every 3k w Donaldson oil and fuel filters and Opti-lube every tank full. We'll see what happens, I'm still kinda scratchin my head... . I'm really tiptoein around on this one, 00, nv4500 w a 53!! I feal like I have gimp of a truck... . I didnt do enough research b4 I purchased 3 years ago, it could have just as easily been a 6spd and a non 53... ...
 
Thanks Jag, did you get a new pump w the kit? If not what are you runnin 4 one? Mabey I could swing that, draw straw w a big line kit and an airtex? I wonder if the lift pump not cycling sometimes is a condition of an air leak as related to psi? Do you have any pictures of your system? I'd love to see the arrangement. I hate the idea of not being able to get replacement parts locally. Thats y I havent made any radical departures from the stock setup...
 
Update #2, I picked up the truck 2day and this is what the invioce says: " checked fuel psi at lift pump test port, 10 psi constant..... lowest it drops is 8 1/2 psi @ full throttle..... ? pressure at spec?" Now I dont want to discuss the proficiency of the service tec but, he took his readings b4 the filter somewhere. Why cant thet test after the filter? I asked for confirmation on what the guage is reading which was 0psi @ wot. From the was it sounded the service dept didnt understand what I wanted. So, armed with this information what do you think is suspect? Fuel filter bowl leak? Banjo bolt leak? I dont see anything... . Dose anyone recognise what I've got goin on here?
 
Cory, do you have anymore results? My 99 is doing the crank and crank and then sometimes start. Won't have a problem when it is cold 50* or has sat overnight. It'll fire right up if I pull it and pop the clutch. Makes me think its an airleak or electrical problem... thanks, Fabian
 
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