Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) north country-HARD STARTING?

[Christen]

my truck starts harder than it should,what can i check to make it start easier. what will it be like at 10below or 20 below,this is why the last fellow traded it . need some ideas. help? denny!

 

[SOOT]

Have the batteries been replaced? What is the idle set at? The idle sould be set between 800-900 RPM'S

 

[wcjp]

I replaced the starter contacts, supply/return fuel hose and lift pump hose. The time to start was a dramatic increase. The hoses were leaking air, but, not fuel.

 

[JJW_ND]

DItto on the idle!

Starting is greatly enhanced with idle set around 800 - 900. Most likely this is when warm. Need to put ever so slight pressure on the foot pedal at startup to get a quicker start.



This assumes grids are working (watch your volt meter... it should drop below 12V with both working) and a normal battery.



Cycle grids twice and hit the starter.



The other thing I recently can confirm that helps winter operation is higher timing. If your timing has never been checked have it set at 15. 5 - 16. If you can not find a shop in your area, Mikes Truck in Northwood ND will set it.



I have a thicker then normal headgasket (not the best for cold weather) and mine has fired right off at zero so far.



jjw

ND

 

[jburnes]

20 degrees?

JJW, you recommended 15. 5-16 on the injection timing, which I am about to do: Most common setting from all at TDR. What is your 20 degrees all about? And why? I'm also looking for injectors. I have a Banks set-up w/ 4"T-back exaust and have heard that a better quality injector gives a better spray pattern providing overall better performance and miliage. Got any advice or opinions?

Thanks

Jon Burnes

-- email address removed --

 

[Darel]

I had a cold start problem and it turns out my fuel preheater was seeping air around the wiring pigtail. Remove your preheater and see if it helps. Turns out you don't need it anyway. My truck's been 100% since, in temps below zero.

 

[JJW_ND]

Shop likes to set them at 20 Degrees!

The shop up here in NE ND likes to set them at 20 degrees. I said I would try it. Those in the "know" (Piers) would rather see 16.



I really helps with cold starts, but that is not to say the 16 would no be sufficient.



In my case I have a thinker headgasket (thicker then I really would have wanted). The higher (then needed) timing probably helps offset the negative effects of lower compression. I do get lots more white cold smoke. BUT!!! I can rev right up to 3K with very little heat in the engine (not that I ever do). THis is something I could not do with stock timing and a very cold engine. BTW!! I start driving as soon as I have good oil pressure. It is when first taking off the higher timing makes it run smooth.



jjw

ND

 

[JohnE]

Denny;

Did changing the temp sensor fix your woes?



JJW-ND;

Denny's timing is already 16° He figured out the problem was the grid heaters and started peeling the onion. (That's tech talk for trouble shooting. ) Last we talked , the manifold temp sensor was bad.



The colder winter the winter temps the more I really like this 20° timing advance. I forgot to set the Espar or plug it in the past 2 nights. Temps are still balmy and only in the 20's, but no white smoke. Last year at these temps it was a white cloud. The engine even warms quicker. Get this, I haven't removed the fan.



-John

 

[JJW_ND]

I also agree higher timing is great for winter

I agree JohnE the higher timing is great for winter operation. My truck sets out all day, start and end of day, get oil pressure and drive. When temps are below zero, I had to really baby it the first few miles (bably means no rpms over 1800 even if I wanted to). Now this things reves like it was 100 degrees out.



I wish I could enjoy the no white smoke. In my case the cold start on a lower the stock compression makes for mucho white smoke. Very stinky white smoke. Either plugging in or getting alittle engine heat makes it quicly go away.



Sorry I never read Dennys signature.



Prior to high timing, I found that one grid heater would get things going done to about -5 below. I needed both to get it going below that temp. I had one unhooked until I replaced the solinoids a few winters back. No grids would make it a really chanllenge below 5 above.



jjw

ND

 

[HomerDog]

I lived in ND for several years with my 96 CTD. I would slightly depress the throttle as I turned over the engine when starting. This made a huge difference on the really cold days. When I did this the engine would start instantaneously. Just a thought.



Dave

 

[Christen]

hey john! still waiting for the sensor,was suposed to be here today. had 1 bad relay also,starts better already. i put the sensor in freezer for a half hour and it really heated the intake up so it even got warm to the feel, i ordered a new sensor anyway,old 1 might be weak, it was still within specs. though. let u know what the outcome is.