Here I am

Not cranking...

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ECM source

Disappearing Voltage, not charging

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Hello,

My truck is not cranking for some days.
Since I'm working only minutes from home now, I was suspected my batteries were weak but with the boost pack nothing happened.
I had to tow the truck home and performed some tests :

- batteries fully charged : nothing
- since my starter was showing some bad symptoms and has more than 15 years, I changed it. Nothing.
- positive terminal of the starter to positive battery terminal with jumper cable and key to start : nothing, so I assume the cable is ok.
- starter signal terminal to battery positive : cranking (starter ok, so relay or wiring issue ?)
- did take out the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood (driver side). using a voltmeter I read battery voltage between pin 85 (ground) and pin 86 (12,5v when key in start position)
- I replace the starter relay with an other one but nothing. To be sure, I jumped the relay with a wire in pin 30 and 87. The fuel solenoid is acting but no crank.
- I jumped the Park/Neutral safety switch (center pin of the plug to ground) Nothing.

At that point, I assume I've missed something...

Your inputs will be welcomed.
 
Sounds like there is a problem in the power distribution center (fuse box). There is a kit you can buy at the dealer that will bypass the problem. Or if you’re good with dc wiring you can do the same thing with generic parts and a bit of wire
 
Fuse #9 is an integral part of starting. Have you checked it? How about the blue fusible link? If you can jump it the replacement is a 14 gauge fusible link, available at most auto parts stores. Theirs might not be blue though.
 
I've checked all the fuses in the pdc, all good.
I've checked again the connections to the starter. The signal wire terminal was all rusted in the heat shrink tubing I decided tu cut to be sure. After cutting a lense of wire and replacing it, the truck started right away. To be sure I cut off and restarted it, but...nothing again !
I'll investigate tomorrow since it seems I've lost continuity on the wire I have fixed... Is there a device like a filter at the end of the signal wire to the starter or is the wire connected directly to the starter terminal ? Mine had, I think, a bolted adaptor to allow the connector to fit on the starter terminal, wich is to big for the connector at the end of the wire. A pic would be nice to explain, I'll see if I can post one tomorrow after work.
Thanks for the replies.
 
Ok, I think it's my problem. The diode might has been installed by the precedent owner more than 11 years ago and it's all corroded. I will change the brown wire between the connector near the PDC and the starter, and a new diode if needed.
I will report back.
Thanks !
 
You don't "need" the diode, it is an add on for a very low percentage failure. I just installed one, for the first time, about a week ago. I would definitely delete it for trouble shooting.
 
Just in case you're wondering, the diode is put there in case your starter contacts hang up. It can be a problem when the contacts wear thin enough that they will go past each other and get hung up. If this happens it can/will burn your shut-off solenoid up, among other things, since part of it is fed by the same circuit.
 
I had already heard or read about the diode but not knowing that there was one on my truck. I just did not put it in my test list...

I've connected the signal wire without the diode and the truck starts no problem now. So lesson learned : if someone has a no crank situation, have a look at that diode...if you have one !
Thank you for all the replies.
 
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