Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) not full lock up?

[Ahopper]

i have been having issues with my tc lockup. i dont belive it is locking all the way or locking at all. i have a lock up switch. when i used to flip the switch it would hold the gear no matter what and would not drop rmps if you let off the throttle. now when i flip the switch it seems to do nothing almost. i went through the ground wires all seem fine. it seems as i get a partial lock up when i manually do it because i see a difference in rpms(100 mabey) when i lock it up but nothing like it used to be. sorry for such a long post. just trying to explain the problem!

 

[Ahopper]

#ad




i think this may have a problem with it? i reached up got an electrical burn from that red wire hitting a ground, it came apart and now i have no control over the trans. i taped around the others that are conected for now but the red i think is something i need becaus i start in 2nd, i have no down shift, lock up or 4th gear.



where can i get a new one?

 

[Ahopper]

i got a new plug in. i shift ok now i have 4th gear but i still do not have lock up. i cannot force into lock up with the switch. i have checked the switch and still no lock up. does anyone have any knowlege over this?

 

[Ahopper]

this what i have checked so far...

1. tps- seems to be opperating fine. starts at . 95 volts goes to 3. 7 at wot

2. looked at brake switch seems to be opperating fine. cruise works fine.

3. checked wiring for tc lockup switch. when switch is on i have ground.

4. put new jumper wire in place of trans relay. no difference.

5. no lights come on so i do not belive it is a temp sensor problem.



does anybody have any other sugestions? i am really stumped on this one!



p. s. i have resarched all of the wires that goes to the 8 pin conector on the trans. they are the following



1. Red- Tans Control Realy output (Feed)

2. Orange- 5 volt reference volts

3. black w/grey strip- sensor ground

4. green w/white strip- govenor pressure sensor signal

5. purple w/hite strip- govenor pressure sensor 12 volt

6. brown- overdrive silinoid

7. orange w/black strip- lock up clutch

8. purple- trans temp sensor





i was having problems befor i put the new plug in but what would happen if i crossed the #2 and #7 wire? could that contribute to something?

 

[mfburns]

Your into this deeper than I ever went. I have the lock up issue every once in a while. Haven't had it lately. I think if you have the wires mixed it would be an issue. Wire 2 is a 5 volt signal and 7 is the lockup. If something is trying to seek the 5 volts to allow the lockup and they are switched the correct signal is never received or matched so the lock up cannot occur. If you are not positive you connected them right I would definitely recheck and verify the colors going into the connector to make sure they are correct. Matter of fact I would do thet first before I tried anything else. You were having an intermittent problem, then found the wires shorting out, replaced the connector and now have a consistant problem, I would look at the job I just did to insure it was correct. Reread the instructions, manual etc to make sure I fully understand what I was supposed to do.



I normally wouldn't try to answer this due to my lack of knowledge on this subject but I don't see too many other responses here.

 

[Ahopper]

mfburns- thanks for the reply. the wires are not crossd right now. i relized i had crossed them and then put them back. i am hoping i did not mess up the lockup clutch but i do not know how this works.

 

[Ahopper]

i just checked the codes. here is what i come up with...



12

45

45

37

42

37

37

55



Here is a post of the codes that i found



turn the key off/on three times and count the flashes, they are all two digit numbers with a longer space between the pairs. You will always get a 55, it just means end of test.





11 = no crank reference signal detected during engine cranking

12 = no codes. Problem with the battery connection. direct battery input to the PCM disconnected within the last 50 ignition key-on cycles.

15** = no vehicle speed sensor signal. No VSS signal detected by the PCM during driving conditions.

23** = intake air temp sensor voltage high or low. intake manifold air temp sensor circuit signals above or below the acceptable voltage.

24** = (TPS) voltage too high or low. Test throttle position sensor.

33 = air conditioner clutch relay circuit. an open or shorted condition detected in the air conditioning clutch relay circuit.

34 = open or shortened condition detected in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.

37** = (TCC) solenoid circuit open or shortened

37** = trans temp sensor voltage too above or below acceptable voltage values

41** = problem with the charging system. When voltage from ASD relay is below 11. 75-volts.

42 = ASD control circuit indicates an open or shorted circuit condition.

44 = battery temp sensor volts malfunction. problem with bat temp voltage circuit in the PCM

45 = trans overdrive solenoid circuit malfunction.

46** = charging system voltage too high.

47** = charging system voltage too low. bat volts sense input below target charging voltage during engine operation and no significant change in voltage detected during active test of alternator output.

53 = internal PCM failure detected.



55 = COMPLETION OF FAULT CODE DISPLAY ON CHECK ENGINE LAMP. THIS IS THE END OF MESSAGE CODE.



63 = controller failure. EEPROM write denied. check the PCM.

68** = PCM not active or a fault condition to the EGR sensors and/or EGR solenoid





** what i dont get is why i get the 37 so many times.

 

[Howard Durand]

I am not familiar with the 97 but have you checked for blown fuses? When the one wire arced it quite possibly blew a fuse.

 

[Ahopper]

i checked but i dont see any fuses for the transmission. also i would think that i have pwer going to the transmission because my overdrive silinoid works just not the lock up one.

 

[SKnapp]

did you check the fuses and relays under the hood and the dash? I'm no expert ,but if it is not this and all your power leads and signals are correct i think your clutch may be toasted. what happens when you manually lock up and coast down in speed does it start to stahl, or did you do this to many times before and tore the L/U clutches out?

 

[Ahopper]

i have never stalled the truck with the lock up switch. i have come closer a couple times. i dont see any fuses for the transmission in the fues box and two relays. one of them has a jumper in it because of the lock up switch and the other one is good.

 

[Ahopper]

so i know have semi lock up sometimes. i have cleaned all conectionsand tested wires to the harnes for the lock up silinoid. when i fip the switch going over 40mph with no throttle the rpms go up about 75-100. does this mean it could be a tourqe converter?

 

[tp0d]

Wow all those codes...

That would signal either a really bad ground somewhere in the main feeds for the PCM, or a bad PCM. If you know of someone that has approx the same truck (ie same PCM), ya might want to try a swap out. edit--just looked again, you posted a list of all codes also... the ASD code is nonrelated to the transmission, but still a bad code. . probable wiring issue.

Otherwise, test the ohm value of the lockup solenoid on the transmission. If you have anything over 10-50ohms, the solenoid is bad. Could have been damaged by the arc.

What you might want to do is rig up a temporary jumper to manually actuate the lockup solenoid, instead of the PCM. I thought about this before I rigged in my lockup switch, but decided against digging into the transmission that much. That way, you will prove or disprove a PCM problem. .

good luck

-j

also--- you need to clear all those codes, particularly after you fixed your flipped wiring

 

[Ahopper]

so i cleared codes and found another pcm to borrow and no difference. still seems like it wants to lock up and then it doesnt. tp0d- i dont think i killed the silinoid from arcing it because it was doing it befor i did it. i guess it ciuld have arced itself under there. tell me more about how to manualy lock up the converter.

 

[tp0d]

only way to do that is with a good solenoid. If its fried, you`ll have no pressure actuation.

not sure how in-depth it is to change out the solenoid, never went that far. lemme dig up my service manual, mebe that will show something. .

did you try to measure the ohm value to ground at the solenoid plug connector? (unplugged of course) That could answer the question.

good luck

-j

 

[Ahopper]

ive got like six different ohm selections on the tester. which one do i use?

 

[Ahopper]

so i checked my codes again. i still have a different comuter in the truck than befor.



codes:

12

37

37

22

55





whatis the 22?

 

[Flying_gage]

Hey I hope this helps even though it is somewhat vague.



I have a 98 that would lock up just not in overdrive. Took it to a diesel shop in Denver. They used a snap on scanner and got nothing. Then took it to the dodge shop in Longmont and with their scanner could not get a code. The diesel guy agreed it wasn't locking and after much fiddling with the scan tool, figured out a way to get a code to pop. It was a electronic sensor in the trans for o/d that was bad. Just required dropping the pan to get to it although the sensor was somewhat pricey.



Hope this helps. If you need more info, let me know. Maybe the spike killed that sensor?

 

[Ahopper]

thanks for everyones help but no matter anymore. look at link below



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...4-1998/200496-truck-just-stolen-look-out.html