not starting - gotta be fuel???

["Mad Max"]

So this morning the ole girl wouldn't start. Cranked just fine but no fire. Here's the intel:

Yesterday morning was one of the coldest in recent memory, -4 degrees. Go out at 4 am to start/warm up for work; start and ran (unhappily) for few seconds then chugged off. Re-started, then ran unhapilly. Wouldn't idle at normal rpm for a few minutes, but didn't stall out. Bitter, bitter cold. Everything was frozen. Got to work no problem, even had some heat and ran fine after few minutes.

After work, started normally, ran perfect all the way home, however the LOW FUEL light did blink on a couple times during decelleration and some turning, tho the light was not on when I shut if off for the day nor was it on this morning. Was going to fuel up on the way into work today.

Today (around 11:30 am) was no where near as cold as yesterday, but it would crank just fine... but not a single hint of firing up. Compared to yesterday... it should have started today.

It acts just like there is no fuel at all.

Fuel does have anti-gel in it.

So, I'm thinking either the fuel was gelled or is just low enough for some fuel issue, or, the fuel solenoid isn't getting power.



Tomorrow I will check the 12v power to the soleniod. Either side should show 12v power with the key at 'run' correct? If not, could be a bad solenoid, ja?

If both sides have good 12v power I will get 5 gallons of #2 and 'tank up' a bit, then prime the lift pump, and check the injectors.

Any other thoughts?



- M2

 

[KOG]

Sounds like fuel if it cranks and then dies. If you can get #1 or kerosene that would work better once you get it through the lines and pump.

 

["Mad Max"]

no no, that was yesterday when it ran fine... all the way up until I shut it off. Today was when it ceased running fine :{ Heater grid is coming on and it'scranking fine... but no fire-up.

- M2

 

[dpuckett]

Are you getting fuel to the pump, and to the injectors?



You should be getting 12v to the solenoid with the key on. (Though it only takes 4 to hold it open).



Not a bad idea for adding extra fuel to the tank. If it still fails to start, change the fuel filter, and fill it with antigel upon installation.



Daniel

 

["Mad Max"]

okay so as long as I'm getting 4-12 volts to both sides of the solenoid then it 'checks out' fine, correct? Sure would be nice if that was it. My last rig has similar issues where it would just shut down, sometimes while cruising on the highway. Tightened up the slip-ons for the terminals and never had a problem after that. Maybe this rig is having the same issue. We'll find out tomorrow.

- S

 

[JLEONARD]

Loosen an injector line and crank it over. Any fuel comming out of the line?

Should be.

If not go thru the bleeding process.

If still nothing then you need to change the filter as Daniel suggested to make sure it's not gelled up/seperated.

Hope this helps. good luck.

Jay

 

[AZTrailduster]

Max,



Mine did the same thing, my fuel gauge was off and I actually ran it out of fuel... or pretty close to it. After some cranking and alot of mashing on the gas it fired up and came back to life. Might be worth a shot if you havent tried it yet.



-Nick

 

[dpuckett]

MM- You're confusing me with "both sides of the solenoid. " Explain yerself, there.



DP

 

["Mad Max"]

my bad DP - the solenoid (KSB if I have my terminology right), has the two connectors on the back/top side and the single connectior on the d-side middle, and I thought the d-side connector had to have the same volts as the back side dual prong.

Well I checked the circuit today, and the back side had 12v power but the d-side didn't, but, it fired right up. Now, all I did was remove one of the wires and reconnect it, and it fired right up. So either it was the wiring on the KSB, or it was gelled fuel. It fired right up as if nothing was ever wrong so I'm guessing it was not a lack of fuel but in this case a lack of KSB power to supply the fuel. Does that jibe?

I'll be applying a dab of dialectric grease to it all tomorrow



- M2

 

[PToombs]

M2, solenoid is on top, KSB on the side. KSB shouldn't let it not start, just make it start hard. Should still puff and fire. I bet you had a bad connection on the solenoid.

 

[jimnance]

Have someone hold the solenoid open while you crank. If it starts and runs fine you know it's the solenoid or wiring to solenoid.

One time I had a solenoid go south. Held it open with baling wire until I got home.

If it's not the solenoid maybe some water in the fuel has migrated into the fuel pump. Other suggestion that you simply ran out of fuel is possible, though my low fuel light comes on with about five gallons remaining.

 

[PToombs]

Jimnance, that doesn't work on a VE. You have to pull the plunger out of the solenoid. You're thinking of a p-pump.

 

[glhs]

Sam, the shut down solenoid is the one with 2 prongs. It is very common to have the wire terminals get loose and it will shut the truck down without warning. Some folks just remove the dual terminal and replace with a closed loop type connector.

The 3-4" long solenoid on the side is the KSB. I think when it's a cold start it will activate which advances the timing and increases case pressure.

A free hp upgrade is to run a hot wire to this through a dash mounted switch and activate it "on" during racing or dyno pulls. Depending on pump and fuel adjustments you can pick up 5-35 hp. Oo.

 

[stoneagemaxx]

wouldent doing that severly decrease engine life?, by no means am i a diesel guru but i thought having the timing retarted a little bit (not very much just a little) would greatly increase engine life, at least this is how i was tought about big cummins engines. at least when your trying to make horsepower

 

[R C Cola]

Retarded ?

Seems like I remember a place back east that soups up big cummins and one of the things they do is retard timing just a tad. Pittsburg Diesel maybe, not sure. They also ceramic coat pistons and other things for over 1000HP

 

[glhs]

Decrease engine life?

Don't know.

I'm sure making 3x more power than stock doesn't help either... ... ... ... but I don't plan on turning it down.

Once the engine warms up, the ksb deactivates and retards the timing. I think when it activates, the timing increases by about 4*?

My timing is set now at 1. 95mm which to the best of my knowledge is about 21*.

On non-intercooled engines putting 12v power to the ksb retards timing, on intercooled engines it advances.

 

[stoneagemaxx]

I belive the company was Diesel Injection i have the writeup, making horsepower doesent have to hurt the motor, in some cases more so in big cummins motors it actually can lead to better efficiency since you arnt always (puttin the pedle to the metal) the advanced timing is what leads to burning holes in your pistions, as said two posts ago they use ceramic coatings on the tops of the pistions to better resist the heat from the combustion, i have the link to the diesel injection website write up, i'll find it and post it if you guys are interested in reading it, it took me a few days to read it (in about hour increments but it is some very interesting and helpful info on building power and keeping your engine alive, they also mention some B series engine mods too. sorry for the long reply i just wanted to clear up what i was trying to say b4