Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Novice Fuel Plate Mods

[Greenleaf]

Hey guys,



I'm new to the P-Pumps. Would like to know if I could perform some minor modifications to an OEM fuel plate by use of a die grinder/Dremmel?



What section should I consentrate on?



Thanks for any help.



Scott

 

[DKarvwnaris]

Hey guys,



I'm new to the P-Pumps. Would like to know if I could perform some minor modifications to an OEM fuel plate by use of a die grinder/Dremmel?



What section should I consentrate on?



Thanks for any help.



Scott

AS a novice, I would offer this advice: NO!!



Until you get a better understanding of the fueling indexes, just buy the plate, it isn't worth the mistake, you'll get instructions on how to set the plate as well. If you happen to be near a diesel shop, you can benefit alot from a well timed can of soda pop at a mechanics break table. A few friendly questions will give you the knowledge you need and possibly show you a few different fuel plates to compare the differences. I used to keep several used ones in my roll chest, but I'm happy with my dodge now, so I sold them.

 

[Greenleaf]

What would give the engine a bit more power. Sliding the plate rearward or forward?



Any other simple things I could do to tweak it just a bit?



Thanks again.



Scott

 

[Forrest Nearing]

don't be affraid to grind it... it's not rocket science. if you don't like how it acts, you can always grind some more or buy an aftermarket plate.



sliding your stock plate forward will yield more power, but while you're in there, I'd pop it out and grind it down a little



Forrest

 

[bmoeller]

You move the plate ahead, for more fuel. The AFC spring can be turned towards the engine, but it only helps increase fueling off idle a tiny bit. Can add a 3 or 4k GSK. Advance the timing a bit. Then the usual bigger injectors, turbos, ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .

 

[BTighe]

don't be affraid to grind it... it's not rocket science. if you don't like how it acts, you can always grind some more or buy an aftermarket plate.



sliding your stock plate forward will yield more power, but while you're in there, I'd pop it out and grind it down a little



Forrest

how would you grind it. would you fallow the same profile. i am debating on doing this but im not sure how much. i want the performance of a #11 plate. is this posible through grinding.

 

[DKarvwnaris]

how would you grind it. would you fallow the same profile. i am debating on doing this but im not sure how much. i want the performance of a #11 plate. is this posible through grinding.

Unless you know how to advance the injector timing, it is just a nice way to smoke up an intersection. The pump timing should be adjusted as well. That's what made mine come alive.

My # 8 plate is giving me mroe than enough to make my dodge scoot with a 20,000 lb trailer behind it. Did you block off the waste gate yet? I plugged off the line to the pump, that took care of the smoke problem as well.

 

[BMancin]

AS a novice, I would offer this advice: NO!!



Until you get a better understanding of the fueling indexes, just buy the plate, it isn't worth the mistake, you'll get instructions on how to set the plate as well. If you happen to be near a diesel shop, you can benefit alot from a well timed can of soda pop at a mechanics break table. A few friendly questions will give you the knowledge you need and possibly show you a few different fuel plates to compare the differences. I used to keep several used ones in my roll chest, but I'm happy with my dodge now, so I sold them.

Where can i get instructions on how to set the plate, will it stop when it is full forword?

 

[dodge cummins]

i would like the same instructions for my 96

 

[Forrest Nearing]

yes, you'll know when it's full forward

 

[DKarvwnaris]

Where can i get instructions on how to set the plate, will it stop when it is full forword?

In the box the new plate comes in.

Also if you take that soda can or case of soda, as I mentioned into a diesel mechanics break room, you'll get the info, plus few tips I can't show you without being next to you with a pump.

It isn't a big deal, just make sure you understand how to do it, or you'll be paying someone to set it correctly afterwards anyways, injector timing should be set to match as well. That's why I would look for a mom and pop diesel shop who will let you watch and learn so you can do it yourself in the future.

 

[BTighe]

i got some from the tst catalog. i ask for some info and they sent the instructions on how to install the plate.



as for blocking the w/g i wouldnt do this. and i know that cummins and holset both strongly suggest againt this. besides a boost fooler elbow is less than 30 bucks.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

as long as you're not overboosting, there's nothing wrong with blocking the wastegate... a boost elbow blocks the wastegate unless you're running a lot of fuel.



Forrest

 

[DKarvwnaris]

i got some from the tst catalog. i ask for some info and they sent the instructions on how to install the plate.



as for blocking the w/g i wouldnt do this. and i know that cummins and holset both strongly suggest againt this. besides a boost fooler elbow is less than 30 bucks.

Cummins also strongly suggests against modifying factory fuel settings except by trained personnel. But sticking fuel plates in seems okay here.

If someone is oblivious to the dangers of excessive levels of boost and does not watch their gauges such as pyro and boost then disabling the waste gate is a bad thing. I never let anyone else drive my truck, and I watch my gauges like a hawk when pulling. Even with full boost, I rarely see more than 30 to 35 psi generated from my settings. The wastegate does little more than cause loads of black smoke with a turned up fuel system from not letting the turbo spool up as fast at a stoplight etc. I don't enjoy leaving an intersection full of smoke, which until I plugged off the waste gate hose, it was doing regularly even when unloaded.

 

[JAmos]

My understanding is that a fuel plate that is ground flat and slid all the way forward provides all the rack travel that is available unless someone feels capable of altering(grinding I think) parts in the front of the pump to get slightly more rack travel. The biggest problem that can arise is that the gov. lever might need adjusted to work with the current fuel plate adjustments/customizations. I didn't find adjusting the gov. lever hard to adjust, others might though.



Jordan

 

[DieselTweaker]

Scott did you get a new toy??

 

[Greenleaf]

There are nineteen 5. 9s here @ school. It's kinda like a R&D test grounds.



-S

 

[TrqMonster]

wastegate

as long as you're not overboosting, there's nothing wrong with blocking the wastegate... a boost elbow blocks the wastegate unless you're running a lot of fuel.



Forrest

I agree, I ran my stock turbo with the wastegate plugged for quite some time until the boost was getting to like 52 PSI. At that point I had to hook it back up so the turbo would last until I got the new one. Just dont push it past I think 38 PSI is what everyone was telling me.

 

[BTighe]

so if i block the w/g will the turbo spool quicker. i was under the impression that the turbo would overboost quickly without the w/g. is there a way to adjust the w/g without blocking it. i have gauges but this would just make me feel more comfortable if its conected.



#11 maybe here soon Oo.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

think about it... 1st gen CTD's didn't even have a wastegate...



as long as you aren't running so much fuel that you overboost, there's no problem. don't run it over 35psi.



Forrest