Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV4500 Oil

[DAT]

What's the general consensus on what oil to use for the NV4500? Also, about how many miles before you first changed it? Thank you.



DAT

 

[D6Diesel]

Catrol Syntorq, 1 gallon. Good price at www.standardtransmission.com. There are no substitute's as this oil was designed especially for the NV4500. Also you may want to consider a K1444-0060 manual transmission filter kit available at Geno's garage. Is so, use high temp silicon sealant for the kit. Good luck. I've got the parts , just have to install.

 

[StephenDelany]

Hello DAT,

Check out Redlineoil.com and go to the description of MT-90 manual transmission fluid. I have been running it for 25,000 before a recent change (re-filled with MT-90) and everything has been fine. Only small amount of the normal "metal toothpast" on the driver-side collector magnet inside PTO cover.

I have complete confidence in Redline products (just ask racers) and I only had to spend about $36. 00 instead of $100. 00.

 

[DAT]

Fishn'Fool-



Where'd you purchase your MT-90 from?

 

[Sled Puller]

The Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90 has been used for years with excellent results.



Change any lube you choose in that transmission often, I go about 30,000.



Fast Coolers are a good idea also.

 

[TowPro]

The amsoil is ok, as long as the trans don't get hot (forget what temp they say the GL-5 starts to "plate" the trans.



I don't have a temp gauge in my trans, but do have Amsoil 2000 in the 5 speed for 12K miles now.



Last couple trips I noticed the smell of HOT gear oil when I pull into the local campground (1 hour drive). I had Synthetic Mobile 1 75-90 in the rear, but last week I changed that out to 75w140 Amsoil. This weekend I am heading the the local campground, see If I still smell hot gear oil when I get there.



Last week I did pull the top plug on the trans, my pretty blue amsoil 2000 in the trans has turned gray in only 12K miles, not sure what that means if anything.

Originally posted by Sled Puller

The Amsoil Series 2000 75W-90 has been used for years with excellent results.



Change any lube you choose in that transmission often, I go about 30,000.



Fast Coolers are a good idea also.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Towpro, I dropped my Amsoil 75W90 from my diff at 35-40k and it was very clear and there was only enough metallic residue on the magnet to cover a pencil eraser. But I only towed light loads (2k)a total of 3500 miles.



Vaughn

 

[Sled Puller]

Mine is still blue after 1 year, about 30,000 miles.



Water contamination?

 

[Don M]

I checked my transmission oil level last week and found the oil to be next to brand new looking. It is the Castrol Syntorq that has been in about 25,000 miles. Standard transmission rebuilt the trans about this time last year.

No matter what oil you chose the stuff needs to be checked and changed often. I plan to dump it every 30K or so.

Standard has the oil for 60 bucks a gallon including shipping.



Don~

 

[JJW_ND]

Don't base quality on color!

I have had very good luck with Amsoil Series 2000 75W90 in both NVG and differentials. Had it in for over 160K (several changes) in NVG and 190K in differentials (changed about every 40K). I have monitored trans temp and I can NOT get it over 190K hotshotting stock and horse trailers (two or three at a time). Yellow metals and NVG4500 dont go together. No yellow metals present to plate!



Like many have said, change the fluid often especially if you get things warm. Warrenty on gearboxes is over at 36K unless you paid for extended. About the time they should be changed. Put what ever your comfortable with. If you have a problem with the NVG, it is pretty rare it will be oil related. 5th gear yes, Lack or low on fluid damage yes. Never changed and fluid shot yes.



Good clean high quality synthetic (there are several that work just fine besides the Castrol)... Not the problem.



Rear differential was just sampled with 38K on the oil. Looked very clean and blue (like new). While sample was good for wear metals then TAN was up their. Needed to be changed even though visually it looked fine.



On the otherhand, I just sampled a neglected front diffential with 92K on the oil. Looked very black with lots of shinny smeary stuff. Not good. This tested a little worse in wear metals but still very acceptable and TAN was still low. Could have left it in.



BTW... I have had no rear wheel seal problems.



jjw

ND

 

[DAT]

Thanks for the info so far guys.

 

[jldhelms]

NV4500 Fluid

DAT



The MT-90 is available from www.myoilshop.com for $7/qt. You can also get another 10% off if you belong to a car club, etc. Our TDR magazine had a recent article on proper NV4500 oil. The conclusion of that article was OEM/GM or MT-90 only. I agree based on a recent trans failure and going thru several oil changes. Shifting/syncro is easier with the OEM or MT-90 over other oils. I chose to run MT-90 because of cost and that recommendation. I also installed the filter kit from Geno's although I will purchase the filter only without gaskets next time around elsewhere for $3 instead of $9. 95.

JLDHELMS

 

[B9Mile]

DAT,



If you are leaning towards the Syntorq, DSU usually has it in stock. I got my last batch there a couple of months ago for $14. 50 per qt. They can order the Geno's transmission filter for you too. Its an Eaton Fuller part number.



http://www.dsutrucks.com/

 

[jldhelms]

NV4500

B9Mile



I took your advice and ordered the filter kit from Geno. Installed easily. Wonder how much filtering the gravity flow from splash actually does? I guess what ever it does is better than nothing. I will attempt to order the filter only by Eaton P/N next time because did not use any gaskets that came with filters. Had to borrow a pump to put the MT-90 in to get it up to the flill plug. Thanks for your help.

JLDHELMS

 

[B9Mile]

JLDHELMS,



I just changed out my transmission fluid the other day too. I had about 40k miles on it. It was a bit dark, but not black. Without an oil analysis, you really can't tell what shape the oil is in. I took Joseph Donnelly's advice and decided to change the fluid about every 40k or so. I put the Syntorq in last time.



I put the filter kit on too. When I filled the transmission, I wondered about getting the filter housing filled up and the element saturated with fluid. So I took the truck for a short spin and then checked the fluid level again. It was a bit low, like I thought it would be. I topped it off, so it should be OK now.



Lots of members who have used the Geno's kit say they have seen a lot of junk on the filter element when they change it. I think it catches quite a bit of wear particles and other things floating around in there. And besides, you have a little extra fluid in the transmission to disperse any contaminants.

 

[jldhelms]

NV4500 Filter Kit

B9Mile



There you go again. Creating more work for me. I did not think about checking the fluid level after starting, to see if the filter housing filled up. But I will do so before I head out again. I pull a 13,600# RV and I need all the lubrication and cooling I can get. I also feel more comfortable now with a filter, any kind, since I had none before and am just recovering from a completely shelled transmission, metal particles everywhere. Thanks for your help.

JLDHELMS

 

[John Berger]

I've had the Amsoil 75W-90 in my transmission and have had good results with it. After I've towed extensively, I can detect a gear oil smell when I first get out of the truck. In the absence of a leak anywhere, I'm figuring it's probably the puke tubes on the transmission/differential. It doesn't smell burnt, either, just that old lovely gear lube smell. The smell has been present with the Castrol stuff in the gear box, as well as with the Amsoil.

 

[B9Mile]

Good point, John.



I can't remember who it was, but a couple of years ago somebody posted about oil losses in the NV4500 due to evaporation. I think they were using the Syntorq.



So, if you tow heavy, especially in the summer, check the oil level in the transmission once in a while. Significant evaporation losses are rare, but they do happen.

 

[TPlasek]

I use synthetic GL-4 rated Royal Purple 80W-90. It can be found at any NAPA store. I'm not going to say it is the KING of oils but it has worked well for me. I tow 10K on a regular basis. Contrary to popular belief, I believe there are many different oils that will work in the NV4500 better then the stock stuff, but that is just my opinion.



I called many transmission rebuild places, including the infamous Standard Transmission in FW, and not a single one could tell me why you have to use the Syntorq or what would happen if I didn't. I had to ask myself:



1. Why did my transmission go out in the first place with the stock oil (I had lower bearing failures at 90K, synchros were still good)... I believe this to be oil related since they are ALWAYS in a bath of oil.

2. What makes this transmission any different from other trannies that require it to use this special oil. Nobody I called could answer that one.



In the end, although lots of people have had good luck with the stock oil, I FEEL <---- my opinion, the stock oil does not provide ME with enough protection to keep my bearings from burning up. So, I wanted to try a different oil, and I prefer an oil that I could afford to change on a regular basis.



My main belief on the NV4500 is this: I feel that changing the oil (USING YOUR BRAND OF CHOICE) on a regular basis, say every 25k, is the key to having a long lasting transmission. My 100k rated oil at 90k looked like s__t and I had two bad bearings to back this up.

 

[MikeBeggy]

Read and follow the advice from D6diesel. He is 100% correct and if you want to have the kind of performance from your trans for which it was intended, then don't experiment with products that the desgners don't recommend. My 2 cents worth from first hand experience.