Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Nv4500 output seal replacement

[JBain]

Hey guys, I've been reading about replacement of the output seal on NV4500 2wd.



1. I have a new seal on order for QUAD 4X4. Hope it is the correct one a little confusing on their web site between 2wd and 4wd seals.

2. I read "remove drive shaft" in the posts and I know there is a correct way and a wrong way to do this. Can someone help me in the correct way to do this I don't have alot of experience in the area?

3. I thinking after reading the posts on this I should order the bushing also?



My 95 has 236k and nothing has been done to this NV4500 since I replaced the Syntorq at 63k when I purchased the truck. So all you that want to use a subsitute lube take note. I also had not checked the level in the trans since then and if you stick your finger in and bend it at a right angle you touch the lub e level. So I guess about 2 qts remaining in the trans. Still shifts like a dream and no noise. I tow a 3 horse 8' living quarters GN 8' wide trailer alot and enven with the low level the Syntorq did it's job. Oo.



I guess I was lucky I did'nt tear up my trans.



Any help with the correct way to remove the drive shaft will be greatly apreciated.

 

[hsmith]

There is no incorrect way to remove and replace the drive shaft. If you are going to replace a ujoint, then you need to make sure you keep the two halves in alignment. Just removing the shaft for seal replacement is straight forward. If you are going to replace the bushing in the tail housing, then you will need a special tool for removal unless you remove the housing completely.

 

[JBain]

Thanks for the input. Where can I get the special tool? Where in relation to the seal is the bushing?

Thanks

 

[BigPapa]

JBain, inspect the yoke that you pull out of the trans. If it's nice and smooth with no wear grove I'd leave the bushing alone. The seal is very simple to remove and install. It has a lip on it that you can easily get a punch on and tap it out a little at a time all the way around. Get the new seal going straight and tap it in a little at a time all the way around until it's seated.



To remove the drive shaft, make sure you have the parking brake set and chock the wheels. Then remove the straps on the pinion yoke, there are 4 bolts with 8mm heads. A wrench works best. You may need to tap on it with a hammer or use a cheater pipe. Push the shaft forward to remove the u-joint from the yoke. You may need to use a pry bar between the u-joint and the yoke to pop it out if it's stuck. Put some tape around the u-joint caps to keep them from falling off. Make sure to clean the bolts and the holes good and apply a drop of blue Loctite when you put them back in.



Next you'll need to unbolt the carrier bearing from the cross member. I think the bolts and nuts have 15mm heads. You'll need a wrench to hold them on top of the frame unless you use an impact. When the carrier is loose, you can then pull the shaft and yoke out of the transmission. With your fluid level as low as you said you may not lose any, but normally you will lose some so you'll need something to catch it in.



Reassemble in reverse order. It helps to have someone to hold the shaft up when bolting the carrier back up. Pay particular attention to the u-joint at the pinion yoke. Make sure you have the cups seated properly in the yoke before replacing the straps.

 

[JBain]

Thanks BP, that's exactly what I needed to know. Will let you know how things go.

John,

 

[JBain]

Got it all wrapped up new seal and new gear lube. Thanks!!!!!