NV4500 to Suncoast?

[Dakotahaulers]

Has anyone replaced their NV4500 to an automatic. I feel like the automatic world is moving faster ahead of the manual world. I do have all the factory wiring, mounts, driveshaft, and time. Just want to know if anyone has done this and if anyone is looking for a complete NV4500 kit for a extened cab.

 

[frijoli]

Let me know when you get ready to part with the transmission.

Clay

 

[1stgen4evr]

automatics

I gathered up all the stuff to change out a 518 to a Getrag and have since been thinking the same as you. The aftermarket possibilities look better than Getrag, 4500 or anything else. Not sure what the lockup converter would do for mileage but I can say for sure that a manual will do better than the stock 518. I think there are aftermarket controllers that would take the place of the ECM and make a real working package out of the automatic. If you do the conversion, let us know as it progresses.



James

 

[Stomp]

Hey why don't you figure it all out and then let me know so I can do it. Well heck why don't I just drop my pickup off so you can do the both of them. :-laf On a serious note if you could make up a list of things that will be needed I would appreciate it. That way I can start gathering the things I need to do the swap also. Oo.



Stomp

 

[Dakotahaulers]

These are the things I have gathered up so far:



518 transmission core

engine wiring harness w/ trottle sensor

PCM out of the Auto

transmission cooler w/ fan

auto dash

steering column

transmission crossmember

Dont know if my driveshaft will work or not?

New 12V head

ARP Studs

20 over Gasket

HD Valve Springs

BHT3E bottom Turbo



Things I Know I still NEED!



$4500 for the new performance transmission

Head O-Ringed

Turbo Pipes (Hot and Cold)

New paint!!!

TIME!!!

And what every diesel nut needs is a woman that enjoys these toys just as much as we do... :-laf :-laf :-laf

 

[dodgenstein]

Rear driveshaft is longer on a getrag. Should be simple to get it shortened. The u-joints and steady bearing are the same.

 

[cerberusiam]

As much as the gear jammers would like to deny it, the auto world is light years ahead. There is only so much you can do with the manuals to beef them up and aside from the NV5600 most of them are lacking when the Cummins starts to put out the power. The only real shortcoming of the auto is a lack of a deeper 1st gear to get the big loads rolling and some wider than should be gear splits when accelerating heavy loads. Up to the 25k to 26k the parts are available to build an auto that will outperform manuals. Consistent loads above that really need a manual. The OD, even with heavier and better parts is just not big enough to handle the strain.



Its a waste of time and money to build a non-lock trans these days. A good lockup converter gives you the same thing as a clutch, in addition to lower fluid temps. Set the trans and converter up correctly and using an aftermarket controller you can effectively have 8 forward gears that will auto shift at selected points. Some of the splits are not very good in the low end but the upper end works out pretty good. Add to that an e-brake and you have a pretty potent tow mode that is a one button operation.



Most of the aftermarket controllers require 3 inputs; TPS, VSS, and 12 volts. The VSS is already available and the TPS inputs can be simulated with a rheostat. There is really no need to have the auto PCM, harness, etc to make them work. It will cost more for the electronic setup but the flexibility in adjustments is pretty good.



The one downside is you will get drug kicking and screaming into the electronic world. The 47/48RE transmissions are totally dependent on the electronics to control them. The shifts are still hydraulic but the governor pressure is controlled by a black box. If that is an issue the 47RH will take the same hard parts and with a couple of toggle and pressure switches the same thing can be accomplished as a manual operation.

 

[esamuelson]

The one downside is you will get drug kicking and screaming into the electronic world. The 47/48RE transmissions are totally dependent on the electronics to control them. The shifts are still hydraulic but the governor pressure is controlled by a black box. If that is an issue the 47RH will take the same hard parts and with a couple of toggle and pressure switches the same thing can be accomplished as a manual operation.

Has anyone done one of these conversions? My 518 needs rebuilt and I was wondering if I should look at upgrading to a lockup convertor. What "toggle and pressure switches are needed for the 47rh? Are any of these "bolt in" or do they all require major mods to work? Could you buy an aftermarket black box to control the 47/48rh trannies? Should I just rebuild my 518 and get a tighter convertor? Any help is greatly appreciated, as I am doing a frame up restore on my truck and want to do it once and right and not have to worry about it.

 

[cerberusiam]

I upgraded to a 47RH when my 518 finally wore out. PM or email for all the gory details.



ATS has a decent controller in their Commander product. It allows you to control an RH or RE, and integrate the exhaust brake function into a single button operation. If you have a laptop computer or access to one the interface to the controller is windows based and allows the user to configure all the paramters and tune it to personal likes.



With the Commander you can go to the RE series transmissions by using the VB that is sold with it. The controller is now a generation 2 product so alot of the bugs have been worked out but it is a new product for the stand alone operation so there may be growing pains.



The RE series has a shorter OD section so it may be close to a wash by the time you add in the converter. If you go with the RE you will more than likely have to upgrade your t-case input shaft to the 29 spline. Its tought to tell for sure but it looks like when the RE was released it shared the same spline count with the manuals. In a 4x2 the upgrade is a lot easier.



If you use the 47RH you can use the 518 OD and not have to mess with the adpater. Not positive but I believe you need the use the later model adapter to bolt up to the t-case. That needs a little more research to nail down.



The 518 can be built into a tough transmission and with a better converter it is definitely a contender. The problem I have with that approach is spending as much on the 518 as a 47RH and not having the lockup TC.



It will be a matter of personal choice, and probably $$$, which one you want to go with. Just letting you know it is relatively easy to do and the parts are readily available. Good luck on your project.