NV5600 Clutch Change Tips

[TexasCat.]

I am going to upgrade my clutch. Looking for some advice, tips, instructions. I remember seeing something before, but can not find it in the forums. It might have been something on the short shifter install.



What all do I need? I will change the fluids at this time as well. What fluid is recommended? Will I need any new gaskets or seals?



Anyone who has went through this, please help me out. I want to have everything on hand before getting started.



Thanks for the help.

 

[jwilliams3]

Get a transmission jack that will withstand 1000 lbs. They have them on ebay for about $325 delivered (OTC Scorpion).



Use a mechanics mirror and a flashlight to line up the input shaft to the spline hubs once you getting it back together. I did that and then used the bolts to walk the transmission back in evenly... . worked like a charm.



Go to auto zone and buy 2 long 4' extensions for a 3/8's ratchet. You will also need some RTV to re-seal the shift tower thingy to the transmission.



I would also advise buying a snap-on barring tool that is available on snapon.com for around 60 bux. This will let you brake the engine from turning over when you torque the flywheel bolts.



Flywheel bolts torque to 101ft lbs/ 137NM.



PM I'll give you my cell if you get into any trouble with it.



You can do it all yourself but I strongly advise having a strong helper as well because the NV5600 is mammoth.



Make sure to unbolt the transfer case from the transmission.



Also dont remove the transmission support beam without supporting the transmission the result can damage your engines belt and fan cooling system.



... Oh yeah forgot to mention use to ramps to drive the truck up onto. Then jack up the rear of the truck and use jack stand to make the truck level. This will give you room to work on it from under if you dont have a truck lift in your garage.

If you are doing the work say in the driveway I also suggest buying a 4'x8' piece of 3/4" or 1" plywood so you can roll the transmission jack around on. Makes it a bunch easier.

 

[GCroyle]

Details Make the Difference

1. Clean the mainshaft thouroughly. Degrease it, wire bush it, then check the new disc on the mainshaft.

2. Most sets come with an alignment tool, use it or an old mainshaft to center the disc.

3. TAKE YOUR TIME INSTALLING THE BOLTS FOR THE COVER ASSY! DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH! Put the bolts in and turn them 1/2 turn per bolt in a staggered sequence. This will pull the cover down uniformly and prevent distortion of the diaphragm spring. Finish with a torque wrench.

4. I bought some bolts that fit the trans to engine bolt holes, then cut the heads off, slotted the end and use them as guides, but not as load carrying devices.

5. DO NOT HANG THE TRANS ON THE DISC! BE PATIENT, LOOK AT THE RELATIONSHIP OF THE TRANS FACE TO ENGINE FACE, fix the angles, keep it centered, be careful.

 

[TexasCat.]

Thanks fellas, do I drain fluid first? Is it mandatory to have my plate resurfaced? What fluid is best for replacement?

 

[jwilliams3]

You dont even have to drain the fluid to change the clutch.

 

[CHolman]

Is it mandatory to have my plate resurfaced?













No, but you'd be crazy not too... .

 

[05mxdiesel]

What do you guys suggest on grease to keep the pilot bearing happy?

 

[GCroyle]

We don't drain prior to our research R&R, hasn't been a problem.

Resurfacing, yep or replace the F/W. Deep imbedded Hot spots have bitten many a Dodge with the chatter bug.

 

[RVTRKN]

We don't drain prior to our research R&R, hasn't been a problem.

Resurfacing, yep or replace the F/W. Deep imbedded Hot spots have bitten many a Dodge with the chatter bug.

I had a conversation with an Dodge trany expert and he says the F/W has a slight pitch and is not perfectly flat, I saw the F/W on his bench at the time when I asked him if he would resurface it he stated the F/W, disc and pressure plate have to be new. Can anyone confirm that statement? I would imagine that the after market F/W are not like that. I always resurface unless there are deep heat fractures and then I would replace it.

 

[Partyat33]

Its cheap to resurface the flywheel. Be careful when you take it off, its heavy. You will need a helper to reinstall as its does not sit on a hub and is impossible to hold in place and put in a bolt. You could cuts some bolts off and use the studs to hang the flywheel on . Be very sure when you push the transmission together that the splines match up. You need a really solid transmission jack. Take you time, its very heavy.



Dennis

 

[GCroyle]

This can start a heated discussion.

A bit of a disclaimer, Perfection Clutch sells clutch sets and flywheels.



The 2003 Dodge shop manual on page 6-3 states "Flywheel machining is not recommended. " Misc. extracts from the same paragraph;

"Unique contour" "Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (approx . 001"-. 003"). Heavy stock removal is not recommended. Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe and deeper than . 003". Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or warpage after installation: it can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release".



If I recommended that the flywheel had to be replaced EVERY time, you would think I was a salesmen, now it is opinion and fact time. When you have a 45lb flywheel that is 1. 5" thick and they cost (list $700-900) it is going to get resurfaced in the field. Our techline guys Tony and Steve take calls from all over the US and we noticed a trend in the amount of tech calls for the 5 speed and chatter. We bought a 1997 3500 5 speed just to investigate this very problem. Our findings are that the 5 speed OE F/W from Cummins is heat treated, and an engineer (he specialized in castings for his entire career) from one of our sister companies explained to us what those monster (deeper and tougher) hot spots in the old heat treated surface are and what they do to a clutch friction situation, we highly recommend replacement of a "hot" or burned up 5 speed flywheel to prevent chatter that seems to recur about 30 days into the next clutch. We even promo'd out new flywheels to good customers backed into a corner to make the chatter go away, it worked.



The 1997 3500 now has a Banks Power Pack (793. 7TQ, 277. 4HP Mustang Dyno) and we have our ZVT system in it and it regularly sees about 22,300Lb Gross Combined.

 

[RVTRKN]

"Unique contour" "Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (approx . 001"-. 003"). Heavy stock removal is not recommended. Replace the flywheel if scoring is severe and deeper than . 003". Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or warpage after installation: it can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release".

Unique Contour as stated seems to confirm the tranys expert statement in my prior post. He did acknowledge high cost of F/W and that it is recommended if repair is to be done properly

 

[TexasCat.]

I will make a few calls and try finding a machine shop that seems to know what they are doing. I am hoping not to be down for very long. I was going to do it over a weekend, but it may not work our for me. I guess I need to decided which clutch setup I am going to use and get it on the way.



Thanks for all of the help.

 

[RVTRKN]

TexasCat, do you have the G56 or the NV5600 trans? I noticed in your sig. that your CTD is an 05, there is a chance you have the Dual Mass Flywheel if it is the G56. In early 05 the NV5600 was used and then Dodge changed mid year, to the G56. You can tell by the shift patterns, reverse will be to the left and down and the NV5600 will be to the right and up.

 

[TexasCat.]

It is the early '05 with the NV5600

 

[RVTRKN]

I had a conversation with an Dodge trany expert and he says the F/W has a slight pitch and is not perfectly flat, I saw the F/W on his bench at the time when I asked him if he would resurface it he stated the F/W, disc and pressure plate have to be new. Can anyone confirm that statement? I would imagine that the after market F/W are not like that. I always resurface unless there are deep heat fractures and then I would replace it.

Just got back from my dealer after doing normal maint. and asked the trany expert all the questions from this thread and he still recommends F/W replacement or as stated in a post you can remove up to . 003, however the F/W is slightly pitched to the center and you will lose the factory pitch. He stated he would do it on his own F/W but any lower than the . 003 and the F/W is trash. The purpose of the contour is for minimal drag when clutch is engaged as to have the clutch disk touch only the outer diameter of the F/W.

 

[Concrete Solutions]

The Pilot bearing is the weak link,



"Over the years we have tried various types of metal bushings, Kevlar bushings, needle bearings, and ball bearings in an effort to find the “permanent fix”. None of the metal or Kevlar bushings we tried consistently performed satisfactorily in Montana and Wyoming due, I believe, to dust, dirt, and grit getting between the bushing and shaft. The original, single seal pilot bearing Dodge introduced for the 1994’s quickly lost it’s lubricant and many failed within 50,000 miles. About 1998, Dodge started using a wider bearing with a seal on either side. This bearing appears to have at least twice the life of the original single seal bearing, but it is still less than the life of most clutches. We then tried boring the flywheels to accept standard 3/4” ID ball bearings. Much to our surprise, the thin inner race of standard series ball bearings quickly broke apart. Finally, when we were about ready to admit defeat, one of our suppliers sent us some ball bearings with thicker races. These special bearings (p/n QU51010) have performed flawlessly in every truck we installed them in. "



http://www.quad4x4.com/Causes of Manual Transmission Failures.htm



Rich

 

[TexasCat.]

I did get my F/W resurfaced. Before taking it to the machine shop, I put a straight edge on the surface. It looked flat to me.



The install went well, still trying to work some kinks out of the clutch though.



Thanks for the input.