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Competition O-ringing question.

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Hey guys... I am about to send my head out within the next few weeks and have a question about something I just heard of yesterday. I have been reading and researching about o-ringing for the last year and I just now heard about the use of wire. I then searched the whole forum and only found a few posts but couldn't find to much info on it. Can anyone tell me what exactly it does and how it works and how you put it into the head?



Thanks... . Ryan
 
Okay, those pics are great and now I fully understand what they are like. Now what are the fire rings like and what makes that procedure different from the o-ring? I am exploring my options here and all the more help... . the better.



Thanks... Ryan
 
my truck is fire ringed, it is a larger ring that is compressed in between a groove cut in the head and the deck. also the gasket has the stock compression ring lazer cut out. if you go fire rings do the 14mm studs, not much point with the 12mm there isnt enough clamping force to ensure good crush on the rings. i have some pics in my readers rig section.
 
Bandit1 said:
my truck is fire ringed, it is a larger ring that is compressed in between a groove cut in the head and the deck. also the gasket has the stock compression ring lazer cut out. if you go fire rings do the 14mm studs, not much point with the 12mm there isnt enough clamping force to ensure good crush on the rings. i have some pics in my readers rig section.





I used the Haisley 12mm studs. They seem to work fine...



Ken Jones did the groove cutting and the decking.



I asked Van if the 12mm studs would work with his rings and he said they would just fine. I also asked Piers the same question and he agreed.



Justin-
 
I ran the 12mm studs with a single O-ring in the head, . 051 wire and more protrusion than most people run, it was just shy of 40K when I started tearing it down a few weeks ago and I was amazed at how well of a bite it had on the gasket, I did a re-torque maybe 6 or 7 times and the last 3 times I gained nothing doing so, keep in mind this is running only 80 psi but I'd say it holds as I've had NO issues with it.



Jim
 
The secret to conbustion containment is first a flat head, and block, the . 041 stainless steel o ring is more then enough to hold if done right, the fire rings are nothing more then a last ditch attempted to hold in the unstoppable force.



The proper way is use a mill to locate and cut the o ring grove, even in a mill you still have to relevel the head, because of the length and weight. The wire to use is . 041 ss, it needs to protrude out of the block . 012. Since I have been doing diesels, Ray Little at RAYMAC racing engines has been doing quite a few diesels from all over the country, along with springs and port work, we have look at o ring jobs done on a few heads, and the wire very in protrusion over . 010 this will make it difficult to seal, and is probably the problem in some people thinking a o ring is not enough



Basic o- ring which includes decking the head is around $ 500



A 24 valve with a full port job, decked with o rings installed, and the trick valve springs and titanium retainers set up correctly will run about $2800 the springs are not the cheep E brake springs but a very trick, this spring is a must if you are going to run any boost over 60 psi . Remember, it takes a good spring to keep the valve closed under boost or drive pressure.



Ray and I have been doing a lot of high end development work of the 24 valve. We have been working on our new intake manifold and it looks like it is going to be a big plus in the power department. This motor is no different then the Pro Stock motor or NASCAR motors that ray is use to working on his number is 817 477 0682
 
ouch, 2300 bucks more just for a port job, valve springs and titanium retainers. I might be new to all of this but am i that new. Espically for the extra 3 things.
 
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