Here I am

Oh Boy- I am really mad now!

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I am having a really awful weekend. I posted a message earlier about my truck dumping 5 gallons of fuel on a 5 mile trip. Now I really have problems.

I go out to do my very first oil change. (Truck has 30,300 miles and dealer did one at 25,100 as part of my purchase)
Right off, I notice drain plug is not torqued to 60 pounds. 30 maybe, but no leaks.
I change filter without much trouble. Put drain plug back in and it will not tighten. Feels stripped out, but looks OK. Put it back in and try again thinking it may not have been seated all the way yet and the damned thing is stripped! I never got out anything more than a 6" ratchet. I took back out and decided to teflon it to try to limp to dealer and realized that may cause more problems. So, I put it back in and try to delicately tighten it to point just before it jumps a thread and the drain plug shoulder falls apart. What a crock of ****. Here I am with no oil in it and no plug to hold it in and I can not tell whether the plug itself was just falling apart or whether the threads in the pan are stripped. They look like they are stripped to me. But surely Cummins would not design it so the threads would strip before the bolt would fail. Would they? I am in need of help here guys. I will call dealer tomorrow and ask them to tow truck in and check threads and replace plug. Or, do I need a new pan? Or, should I just call dealer and ask for a new plug and see if the threads hold? I need help. I have had nothing but problems with this truck and now I have no way to even get to work. This sucks.
Can this be tapped out to a larger thread size? Helicoil it? Sell truck and find my 1990 Chevy 1/2 ton that never saw the inside of a garage except mine in 220,000 miles?

I have seen the guys in shops use impact/air tools. I am sure that is what happened to mine.

Very frustrating and in need of advice.

David

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'00 2500QC 2WD 6sp. loaded with all but leather and cab lights.
 
I have been able to purchase oversize drain plugs for other rigs at NAPA. They are a self threading plug and come in a couple of oversizes. I do not know if they have one available for the cummins yet. Good luck. Maybe it is not approproate to say Happy New Year!!
 
hgdmartn,
It sounds like whoever changed the oil before you bought the truck stripped the oil pan threads. It seems like it would be hard to do. A real dummy must have done it with an impact wrench or something.


I'd insist on a new oil pan & plug from the dealer. It probably was stripped before you got the honor to tackle this mess! #ad


I have busted the oil pan plug flange at least twice. I have never heard of the pan threads getting stripped though.

Let us know how it goes.


I'd be screamin too #ad




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-01-2001). ]
 
The "hat rim" part of the drain plug will pop off when too much torque had been applied. The threads inside the pan should be ok. Your only going to find a new one at cummins or dodge. Always keep a spare one if it is possible,also a few gaskets.
The first time I popped one,it scared the hell out of me. Screw the torque wrench. I now go by feel.
Hope your pan is ok.
B
 
My 2001 shop manual shows the torque speck. for the oil drain plud at 44 ft/lbs. Hope this helps.

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Eric Pitts Terre Haute Indiana
2001 Properly Valved 2500 Qcab 4X4 auto Transgo shifts it 4. 10 LSD Prime-Loc Weston Nerf Bars Smith built brush guard Command Remote Starter Scotty Air DD stage 1’s, boost fooler, elbow 32psi boost 247hp,657tq Neophyte B. O. M. B. er
The Pitts Home Page
Member GLTDR
 
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You beat me to it Eric, they have a TSB out I believe on the plug torque being lower to 44lbs from the original 60 lbs. The shoulder seperating is a common problem.
David see if your local True Value is open, alot of times they have those unusual bolt or plugs in stock. Good luck, Pete
 
My previous truck which was a f**d. Had the same problem on a regular basis. About every third oil change I would have to replace a $1 plug. The pan had a hardened insert for the threads which I could have probably have got a tap and cleaned them out but remembering to buy the tab was a tuff obstacle. LOL I did this routien for 10 years with that truck.
I would just get another plug and a tap to clean the threads first. {or about a half dozen plugs which ever is easier for you}
Good luck! Scott

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'01 3500 qc 5sp, 4x4 white w/ green graphics dark tint, flaps, tonneau,painless, Uniden Grant LT w/3' glass K-40, back up lights
'91 Regal 260 at Dale Hollow
 
Originally posted by burndog:
... . Screw the torque wrench. I now go by feel.
B

Me too. I always just snug it up with a 3/8 ratchet. I change my oil every 3,000 miles and have never had a leak or a failed drain plug yet.

Daniel
 
hgmartin,

This is from another thread. Good info on different plug choices.

I've busted 2 oil plug flanges too. Even using the correct torque. I don't bother with the torque wrench anymore. Just snug it with a 3/8" drive rachet.

There are a variety of drain plugs other than the OE one. Geno's garage has a "heavy Duty" plug that shouldn't seperate like the OE one. It has a larger flange. Looks like a good plug. See below:
#ad


There are also 2 types that screw in the pan and have a drain valve. I use the "Finger Touch". The other is the EZ Drain plug. Both are good plugs. #ad
#ad


More info on all 3 below,http://216. 167. 98. 200/CoastalData/Category. cfm?&DID=30&CATID=1

Another option is the "Superplug" it has a powerful magnet that will pull ferrous metal particles from the oil sump. It's cheap insurance.

More info here: http://www.superplug.com/home.html

#ad




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-01-2001). ]
 
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Hey guys- you all are great! Thanks for the input. Here is what I did:

The shoulder had a nice concave shape to it where some numbnut had overtightened it. So I put it in a vise backwards from the way it broke and welded the flange back on. I then cut a little gasket paper to "help" the original washer and snugged it back in and let 'er rip. Internal threads appear to be OK but I did not do much more than snug it up. I just need to get back and forth to work a few days. A little drip will not kill me, have not seen any yet. The best part is not having to go to the dealer. Ha.

I am leaving here to go over to Geno's Garage and buy a better setup.

Thanks for the help in my time of despair.

Happy-Safe New Year to All.

David

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'00 2500QC 2WD 6sp. loaded with all but leather and cab lights.
 
It has been said many times on this forum before, but hear is another sad story about a dealer how uses minimum wage labor for high school kids to "play" with our $30K and up trucks!

Sorry to hear about your problem but thanks for posting, mabey someone will read and decide not to take their truck in for "dealer 5 STAR service" like you got. The worst part about this is if you did take it back, bet they would lie and try and cover up there deed, and deny warenty service! I almost gave in, got my second notice about the trailer hitch recall and almost thought about briningin it in, no way, I'll just pretend I never got the notice!

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1999 3500 quad cab, auto aero fendor trim and running boards,
bugflector II, K&N filter, Geno's monster tip
 
I do my own oil changes every other 5K change, just to make sure that the company that changes my oil in between times (Pro-Fleet)when I don't do it myself is doing it right. They are, and I'm satistfied!
Bob

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Bob in Sacramento, Y2K Black 3500 ISB 4x4 4:10 LSD,Auto,QC,SLT Laramie, Slightly BOMBED :) LB, Polished Stull Billet Grill & Fog inserts, Chrome Smitty-Built Step Rails, Mopar Chrome-Tipped Mud Flaps, A-Pillar mounted West-Tach Turbo/Pyro/Trans Temp gauges,Rancho 9000's set at '1',Diamond Plated Tool Box, OEM U. R. Bedliner + other stuff.
Fact:The First Fords' had 'DODGE' Engines! The new PSD's need them!
 
Hey TDR readers,

I was a little harsh in using the term "numbnut" referring to the one who stripped out my drainplug at the dealer. He may have been using the assigned torque value, which if I understand correctly has proven to cause failures of the bolt. Anyhow, unless he was using an air tool, he should have noticed when the flange started to seperate. It was very easy to turn. This makes the guilty party the designer in this case.
Just a side note: I have been maintaining my vehicles for 15+ yrs and have never owned a spare drain plug. I do not feel that I should have to for my 30k+ truck either.

Hope my Genos plug comes tonite so I can put this behind me.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

David

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'00 2500QC 2WD 6sp. loaded with all but leather and cab lights.
 
Just an observation on aftermarket drainplugs -- those plugs that hang beneath the pan really freak me out (don't know how else to put it). Like the quick drain, etc. My pan is routinely polished clean by dirt, ice, or snow. Not to mention the occasional tire 'gator', etc. I'd strongly reconsider having anything but a flush or nearly flush mounted plug.

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Big MAK
98. 5 ISB 5spd 4x4 Quad Cab 3500, 275s and Original PowerMax
A "WARRANTY FREE" ZONE
https://www.turbodieseltrucks.com
 
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