Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oh Boy NY Cold Weather

[cD'amato]

Well unfortunately I live in a condo complex and have no access to an electrical outlet where I park my truck. The past 2 years its been fine starting it in the winter (the first year was a bit easier) but I ve noticed this year its a little tougher already. This AM it actually took two cranks to get it going about 25 degrees F out here I use the Siloo Diesel Fuel Anti Gel to keep the fuel from gelling. My question is... am I doing anything bad to my truck by not plugging it in? Or should I just double cycle the heater and start it that way? I sure wish they made a portable power source, like a battery booster that I could plug the truck into for us folks with no electricity near where we park!



-Chris

 

[The patriot]

It's always better to plug it in.

I plug mine in at home and work. The snow plows plowed in my plug the other day. I was leaving work in the AM (night shift this week) and it was about 10 out Saturday morning. Man, I dont like to hear the truck making noise like that. :{

Eric

PS Have you considered an espar heater? $$$$$

 

[jsnyder]

If you can't plug it in, you should definitely have synthetic oil in it. I have run both Rotella 15w-40 and Rotella Synthetic 5w-40. The synthetic definitely pressures up faster and sounds a hell of a lot better on a cold startup.



Maybe a long extension cord?



Jason

 

[cD'amato]

Should I blend the Rotella 15W40 and the synthetic or just use the synthetic straight? Whats an espar heater?

 

[cD'amato]

Interesting Info I Found...

Q: Will the diesel start in subzero weather?



The Cummins B will reliably start at temperatures to -20 degrees F without the block heater, but the engine is much happier if the block heater is used. It may take several manifold heat/start cycles before the engine fires and continues to run. Expect a large smoke cloud, engine and accessory whine, knocking, and vibration until things warm.

Below -20, some block heat is usually needed to get the engine to reliably fire. Always allow the oil to warm before using heavy throttle or running the engine above 2000 rpm. An electrically operated magnetic oil pan heater will help warm the oil and make the engine easier to turn over. Espar makes diesel fired block heaters for people who can't plug the truck into an electrical outlet. In cold weather Cummins Premium Blue 2000 semi-synthetic engine oil flows better than regular 15W-40, but it does not have the required SF or SG rating!.



I found this on some other site. Im a little hesitant on using the Cummins Semi-Synthetic oil now though. Anyone have another oil to recommend for winter use ? I have to do an oil change this weekend anyways so nows a good a time as any to switch for the winter. Thanks!



-Chris

 

[lmills]

Re: Interesting Info I Found...

Originally posted by cD'amato

In cold weather Cummins Premium Blue 2000 semi-synthetic engine oil flows better than regular 15W-40, but it does not have the required SF or SG rating!.





-Chris

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the SG rating for spark fired ignition? "S" being the letter that denotes if it's suitable for spark ignition or "C" for compression ignitions. It would be understandable that it wasn't "s" rated. It should however be rated CG or CH

 

[mimprevento]

Cold starts

Use Valvoline Premum Blue Extreme 5w-40. We have had some cold mornings down here in VA in the 20s- I have noticed faster oil pressure build up and less racket- this is a superior synthetic oil. If you cannot plug in this is next best thing. I am a Long Island native- pretty cold but not as bad as those upstate folks deal with thanks to all the water. The LIE demands a great oil if it is as bad as I remember!!!!

 

[jsnyder]

I wouldn't blend the oils. They are probably compatible, but a blend won't flow as well in the cold as a pure synthetic. I think the Rotella Synthetic is rated CI-4.



I've started mine at 23 below without the block heater. Not something I'd do regularly. It smokes and rattles, but it will start. Make sure you use a good anti-gel. Mine gelled up at 27 below in sunny northern North Dakota. When I pulled the treatment bottle out to re-read the label it was the consistency of pudding!



I now use Rotella, Stanadyne, or Howe's, usually based on what is most conveniently available.



Jason

 

[Ron Bissett]

Cycle twice then if you have a exhaust brake turn it on after starting and the Eng will warm up faster . take it easy for the first mile or so for all the other lubes to come up to normal too. As for Oil best to start the cold season with a fresh oil, and filter of your choice . Ron in Louisville KY

 

[cD'amato]

I guess Ill try the Rotella Synthetic. Im using the Siloo Anti Gel at the recommendation of some folks up here in NY. Anyone have any experience using it? How is the Amsoil Synthetic (I don't think they make a 5W40 anyways)? Nows a good time to do it cause its bitter cold up here and my Geno's 4/2/1 kit will be here Friday so Ill do the fuel, air, and oil in one shot.

 

[HC]

Oils to consider:

Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 synthetic

Amsoil 15W-40 HD diesel and marine (AME)

Amsoil 10W-40 High performance synthetic (AMO)

Amsoil Series 3000 5W-30 (HDD)



Yes, the "S" rating is also required, something related to the valve train lubricant requirements. (sliding tappets?) Check your owner's manual; they don't say why, but it is very clear that the "C" and "S" ratings mentioned above are BOTH required.



You said it was starting fine for two years; now taking just a bit longer. Let me guess - original batteries? With the dual battery system, sometimes if one battery gets "weak" things will still work, but not as well. I'd suggest you get someone to do a load test on both batteries, just to rule out one possible cause of your reduced starting performance.

 

[cD'amato]

Yup they are the original February 1999 batteries. Thank you for the list of oils to consider. I see none of them are of a 5W40 weight except for the mobil. Is 15W40 too thick for the really cold weather? Its real easy for me to get Rotella up here. Ill have to look into the other ones and see if I can locate them. Thanks again.



-Chris

 

[jmadden]

We also see some cooler temps here in WI (we've hit single digits a few times already) and only after that did I finally get the timer and cords out for the block heater... no trouble starting cycling the heater only once and w/ the Rotella T 15-40 that's still in it... but I will go to Rotella SB10-30 (synthetic blend) this w/e and use the SB for the balance of the winter (it worked well last year even on sub-zero days when I couldn't plug in the block heater).



Anti-gel I assume is on the fuel end... I've never used it... never seemed to need it. Winter blend fuel seems to magically appear in the cold northern states resolving the need to add anything (I think), however I acknowledge I'm not an expert.



Just something to think about.





jm

 

[cD'amato]

Someone just informed me that with runing the synthetic oils (transmission included) you will see some leaking or seeping. Anyone have any experience with this?

 

[jsnyder]

This off a bottle of Rotella Synthetic: meets or exceeds Cummins CES 20076 requirements, API certified CH-4/SL.



I use synthetic in both differentials, transmission, and engine. I do have some seeping from my rear axle seals, but given the track record of these I highly doubt it is from the synthetic. Don't know for sure.



I ran Amsoil Heavy Duty/Marine 15w-40 one year and it seemed to flow fine and pressure up quickly in the cold. Pretty spendy though, and I didn't like doing the extended drain interval to be cost effective.



FWIW, I run Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 in the spring, summer, fall, and switch to a synthetic 5w-40 in the winter. I have run Rotella 15w-40 in the winter. Just didn't like the long wait for oil pressure and the loud rattles at startup when I wasn't able to use the block heater.



JM-I see a lot of pumps around here have winter blend fuel. Anywhere from 50/50 #1 and #2 to 20/80 blend. I buy straight #2 from Cenex and use an additive. This is supposed to be good to 40 below zero. If you are using winter blend (many of these also have Power Service or similar additive around here) you probably don't need an anti-gel.



Jason

 

[mimprevento]

Premium Blue Extreme

This is a 5w-40 formulation and is highly touted by Cummins based on its own testing- I would use it regardless of price- you mentioned that only the Mobil Delvac was 5w-40 but the Extreme is in this class.

 

[cD'amato]

I have spent a good portiuon of my day trying to find this Valvoline 5W40 Extreme online and around here in NY and no dice. If you do a search for it on the Valvoline website it even says no such product. Any ideas?



-Chris

 

[jmadden]

On the question of synthetics and seepage:

Truck is a y2k w/ ~96k mi.

Amsoil synthetic in both diffs... no seepage.

Redline synthetic power steering... no seepage.

Rotella SB 4-months of the year... no seepage.



While there is a flow of oil from the vacuum pump I don't attribute that to the synthetics since the problem seems to be a common occurrence.



jm

 

[Midnite]

On my '92 I have synthetics in everything except the engine, and I have no leaks or seepage at all.



The pad type oil pan heater is a definite plus! Mine isn't a magnetic type--it's stuck on with some kind of RTV. The only ones I've seen that use a magnet don't look that powerful. FWIW, the coldest we ever see here in Anchorage is about -20F, and if I plug in using both the block heater and oil pan heater, my truck has no problems at all starting, and I use 15w40 oil in it (Delo 400 last winter; Rotella the winter before).



Mike

 

[mimprevento]

Premium Blue extreme

Got it through Cummins Atlantic in Chesapeake Virginia- there must be several Cummins repair facilities and parts dealers on the Island or closer to the City- just check. They got it in in two days for me but I bet they have it in stock up there. It is relatively new. Good luck. I saw a mpg gain and even Cummins says it is good to go for extended drains so give it a try.