Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Oil and Fuel Filter change this weekend

[DEickhoff]

I am doing some long overdue maintenance on my truck. Is there anything special or shortcuts I need to know about changing out the fuel filter? I've done the oil filter change so that's no problem but I have never done the fuel filter or strainer. I don't have the parts for the strainer so it will have to wait. I am doing this tomorrow along with a visual inspection of the entire truck. Anything I should check on specifically?



Thanks



dawna

 

[dodge cummins]

all you do with the fuel filter is drain it from the bottom and then twist it off just like a oil filter. to twist off the fuel filter will take alittle more muscle but it will twist off. once removed take the drain off the bottom of old filter and put it on the new filter with the new o-ring and tighten. once you have the drain on ,fill the filter with fresh fuel and twist back on. once on real tight,press the primer button about 50 times and crank her over. if she doesn't start the 1st try, it will by the fourth try because there may be some air in the system that has to be purged out.

 

[ndurbin]

A sawed off broom handle works real well to push the primer button rather than burying your arm down there.



Nathan

 

[DEickhoff]

Thanks guys. I have an old broom handle. Hope it is short enough to fit in the engine compartment. What really scares me about this whole thing is the truck not starting after I change the fuel filter. I have printed out the fule filter change instructions on Dodgeram.org site and have the service manual with me. I know I'm just worried about this and once I have done it and the truck fires up I'll be wondering why I was so scared in the first place.



Dawna

 

[VicR]

I see you have a 98, so I think your set up is similar to my 97 12 valve. If thats true, you don't have a spin on fuel filter, but one that sits in the silver canister. A little more involved, but not a big deal.



Loosen the plug at the top like the instructions say and keep on that primer until you see fuel (not air bubbles) coming out the plug. It takes a lot of pumps on mine! Still don't worry if you have to crank it 2 or 3 times for 20 or so seconds until she fires up. Just give it enough time to cool between cranks.



Last time I did mine, I cleaned the housing and put the filter in, then put a large ziploc bag over the assembly while I manuvered it into place, figured there was less of a chance of knocking junk into it when moving it around the frame rail and starter, etc.



Once you see how easy it is, you'll be glad you didn't pay someone to do it.



-Vic

 

[ABorchard]

If you have an air compressor skip the primer button and with the bleed screw open pressurize your fuel tank with an air nozzle wrapped in a rag, takes about 15 seconds to fill the filter and purge the air. Don't get carried away and blow up your fuel tank, 5 psi is plenty.

 

[DEickhoff]

Well two hours later and I am done!!! The oil change took 30 minutes tops but the fuel filter change was a lot longer. How much stuff can one vehicle have in the way Layed on top of my engine and pumped the primer about 80 times (yes I counted). A couple of cranks, a blue cloud of smoke, and a rough 15 seconds later the engine smoothed out and sure is more responsive now. The filter was black Did a general inspection of the drive train and exhaust system. Could not find the weep hole

Will try to find it in the service manual and go back out tomorrow.



A big thank you to everyone who posted with their suggestions. This site is great.



Dawna

 

[shendren]

fuel filter should take about 15min. stand by the driver's front tire on a stool. remember next time to take a 10mm and loosen (don't remove) the nut on the top of the filter head. the one in the front. then when all of the air is purged, you will see fuel come out of this bleed screw. use your left hand to take the filter off. go in with your left hand from the front and your right hand from under the brake crap... .

 

[ABorchard]

Click for weep hole> http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/cooling-sys/weep_hole.htm

 

[jshumate]

I see you have a 98, so I think your set up is similar to my 97 12 valve. If thats true, you don't have a spin on fuel filter, but one that sits in the silver canister. A little more involved, but not a big deal.



Loosen the plug at the top like the instructions say and keep on that primer until you see fuel (not air bubbles) coming out the plug. It takes a lot of pumps on mine! Still don't worry if you have to crank it 2 or 3 times for 20 or so seconds until she fires up. Just give it enough time to cool between cranks.



Last time I did mine, I cleaned the housing and put the filter in, then put a large ziploc bag over the assembly while I manuvered it into place, figured there was less of a chance of knocking junk into it when moving it around the frame rail and starter, etc.



Once you see how easy it is, you'll be glad you didn't pay someone to do it.



-Vic

Is there a step-by-step procedure somewhere on-line for the fuel filter replacement on a 12V filter-in-the-canister type? I'm somewhat at a loss as to how to reach the thing, let alone get it off.

 

[GAmes]

OK, here is my procedure. I first drain the filter by opening the lever, then disconnect the water in fuel wire connector plug. You may very well lose some skin doing this the first few times. I use a long extension and a universal connected to a 9/16 socket to undo the nut on the top of the housing that holds the canister in place. If you are agile enough you can hold the bottom of the canister with one hand while loosening the nut. It is a captured nut, it will not fall off. When the canister is free I lower it to the frame, then crawl under the truck and take it past the starter to get it out. Remove the old filter and the small o-ring that is on the center post of the canister. Now would be a good time to loosen the brass nut that holds the bolt in place that holds the whole thing together. Take that bolt to the local hardware store and get a grade 8 bolt to replace it with. It is not metric and should be easy to find. I had one break in the outback of Alabama one weekend, not a fun day. To continue, when installing the filter put a thin coat of petroleum jelly on the o-rings (2) and the big gasket. Put that baggy or something over the assy, crawl under the truck, rest the canister on the frame, get up top and reinstall it. Make sure the lever is facing fwd. Don't forget the wire connector. I remove the bleeder bolt completely, it is the 10 mm head that is on the fwd banjo fitting. Pump the primer button until fuel comes out the bleeder hole. Reinstall the bolt, then pump the primer button a few more times until you hear the squeal of fuel passing thru the overflow valve ( that lets you know the pump is still working good, as is the O/F valve). Crank it up and check for leaks. Takes about as long as it took for me to type it.



Gary

 

[jshumate]

Thanks Gary. Unable to wait for a reply (would have been easier if I had), I struggled through it. I couldn't get the drain hose off so I had to remove with it on and for some reason, I thought I could get the thing out through the top and spent a lot of wasted time trying. The only thing I don't get from your description, is the "long extension and a universal connected to a 9/16 socket. " I used just the universal connected to a 15mm socket. It worked, but not easily.

I'd like to find that engineer that put the filter where it is...

/John

 

[GAmes]

Thanks Gary. Unable to wait for a reply (would have been easier if I had), I struggled through it. I couldn't get the drain hose off so I had to remove with it on and for some reason, I thought I could get the thing out through the top and spent a lot of wasted time trying. The only thing I don't get from your description, is the "long extension and a universal connected to a 9/16 socket. " I used just the universal connected to a 15mm socket. It worked, but not easily.



/John

You don't have to remove the drain hose. As for the 9/16, I told you it isn't metric.