Here I am

Oil Bath trailer bearings

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

TURBO for a Kubota G1900 diesel mower

Hoopty appears to manage battery voltage....

Going to change oil and inspect the bearings in a gooseneck trailer 10k axles have oil bath hubs. Been using Delo synthetic SAE 75W-90 Gear lube. Just wondering what others use in this bearing set up?

BIG
 
I usually use 75w-90 synthetic if I know the owner will be particular enough to use the same if they ever top off. Otherwise I have used Lucas hub oil, although I think the synthetic would be my first choice. Usually fill a little above the full line since they don't hold much oil.
Matt
 
Just a little heads up for you Big. On most oil bath hubs, the seal is unitized or in simple terms, it fits tight on the spindle and the hub, then turns inside it's self. Be sure you install it on the spindle first, then inner bearing, then hub. The seal fits tight in the hub so you will need to push it on (the hub) with the spindle nut, then back it off to running specs.

Make sure the seals are the same size, some are real close but no cigar. The 10k axles come in standard duty and heavy duty. Standard duty are usually one piece drum/hub with 12x3 3/8" brakes or heavy duty are two piece drum/hub with 12x4" brakes. AL-KO axles are 12"...Dexter are 12 1/4" So just be sure what you have so you can get the right parts. Good luck!

Nick
 
Last edited:
Thanks Nick

I get the parts from Dexter, I knew that I was going to preform the inspection and replace the disc brake pads so I ordered from Dexter using the #'s off the axles themselves. I use a seal driver that came from Dexter also. main thing is to get the seal on the right side out, there is an " Air Side " to the seal. I have had no problems with the oil I use, when I did this job I was just wondering what oil others use, bearings looked good and reused them. This is the 3 time I've done this operation on the trailer since I've owned it. Next time (if there is a next time) I think that I will buy PJ trailers rather than Big Tex from what I've seen they are built a bit better.
 
I am a dealer for both of those trailers no mater witch one you buy stick with dexter axles. On some PJ they are an option they are switching to dexter but still have some alko left.

___________________
2000 2500 2wd xc auto 355
2015 3500 4wd cc aisin 410
 
nweiman

Sorry but have been away from access to the keyboard. Yes I have disc brakes on tandem, tandem 10k axles under a 30Ft gooseneck Big Tex flat. I like them a lot they work great. I was told by an older guy on this site that I wouldn't like them, the Gentleman that said that had pulled RV's for awhile and it was his opinion that they have a " Lag time" in the response from when you apply the breaks to when they actually start to work. This in fact may be true, although I haven't been annoyed by it if in fact there is a Lag time. I don't drive to where I use a " Panic stop" so when I do use the brakes its applied well in advance of the need to stop on a dime, in other words I look far ahead so as not to be surprised a stop is coming.

It could be that its the brake controller that is used " Max Brake" he was the one that directed me in that brand and I have to say that he was correct that its the best I've seen. The brakes are electric / hydraulic so the brake controller sends voltage to the brake hyd pump that I would like to stop and it supplies the hyd pressure to the brake calipers. I do have the pump set up a little heavy on the application of the trailer brakes. I like to have them working more than what most people would, I believe. I like to know that they are working more than the truck brakes not by much but I can tell that they are working when I apply them with an empty trailer to much brake pressure and I light the trailer tires up. I do probably have to change the trailer brake pads more often because of this. I have found that the pads that the calipers use are also the same ones that are on a 1/2 ton chevy front disc brake set up, I use to buy the pads from Dexter but they needed to be changed more often than the Raybestos that I know use. Raybestos is also the pad of choice for my Dodge 2500 they STOP and LAST.

Service is the same idea as any disc brake set up that I've seen remove to two bolts holding the caliper to the spindle mount and push that caliper plungers back into the caliper install new brake pads and re-install. I will catch some flack from this IM SURE but I don't turn the rotors every time new pads are installed. I keep an eye on my equipment don't abuse it and replace the pads before the worn out pads ruin the rotors, I also don't use the brakes so hard that the pads and rotors smoke or so hot that they warp, again they are my equipment so why do stupid things when it costs me money. We live in the Mountains and pull heavy loads the Disc brakes are the only way to fly. I have a Gooseneck 3 axle livestock trailer that I've converted to disc also and no problems at all.

I hope this helps you, if I had a choice in brakes I would hands down go disc.

BIG
 
75W90 synthetic is used in the big semi trailer axles as well as in the steer axles. Stuff holds up well. Very few customers use the old 75W90 Dino gear oil anymore.

Now I'll wander off topic just a little bit but not really........:D I've been told by some that they enjoy the little side trips......

Some fleets have gone to a Mobil Synthetic grease (stuff is bright red) in trailer axles. Cuts down on wheel seal leaks and overfilling issues. That set up uses a solid hubcap. Stuff liquefies when it heats up and solidifies when it cools back down. Expensive but works really well.

Synthetic is almost a necessity now that 95% of the big stuff has outboard drums and Budd style wheels. The old spoke wheels and inboard drum Budds required removal of the hub so the wheel seal and gear oil got changed by default. The bearings were also inspected at that time. Now with outboard drums the bearings and seals don't get touched unless there is a leak or some other issue.

Hub cover on the right is designed for the semi-solid grease......

hub cap.png


hub cap.png
 
Mike

I was told by my NAPA parts guy in town the same thing stay away from Straight Dino Oil because of leaks, also the caps that Dexter had originally I didn't care for (pictured below) they are just plastic that didn't weather very well and with the chemicals that are on some roads during the winter they became brittle. The same NAPA parts guy looked around and found some cast aluminum or at least it looks like aluminum. They are press fit but closely resemble the old Stemco hub seal that are on BIG RIGS of my era only without the bolt on flange like the big rigs had. Same red fill plug and all with the sight glass not plastic that I can see the oil level with just a glance. I used a high temp RTV sealant to seal the press fit and have yet to have a leak. I think that im going to stick with the Delo Syn gear lube on the bearings I was just wondering what if anything is new in the market. Years ago we use to use half & half of Dino gear lube and STP over fill just a tad and quickly put the plug back in when your running down the hwy the oil is slung out to the edge of the hub and bearing anyway.

563678.jpg
 
Mike the red grease was used in Booster axles on concrete mixers for a long time, don't know if or what they use now. The grease was put in much the same as hand greasing a bearing (only with a pressure packer) then installed with a non viewable cap like the one on the right in your picture. They were check periodically if they ran dry and seized it was disastrous
 
Last edited:
Back
Top