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OIL Change mess~!

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Well, Today I decided to change my oil and filter. I was unprepared for the water fall of oil. I have a 14 quart container for catching oil but it came out of the truck so fast that the container couldnt keep up. I spent 1/2 an hour cleaning the spilt oil off of my drive way. Hands are a little charred from trying to reinstall the plug to slow down the flow of the oil. The filter change I thought would be easy, Whats with the **** design of having some wiring harness directly under the filter?? :{ I think jiffy lube is looking bettter and better next time or I need to find an oil catch container that can keep up with the flow from the pan. I also got a work out rotating my tires. The rear lugs came off good the fronts had to have been torqued way out of spec. I wont have togo to the gym tonight thats for sure. Thanks for letting me vent.
 
Try this!!!!!

insanediego2500 said:
Well, Today I decided to change my oil and filter. I was unprepared for the water fall of oil. I have a 14 quart container for catching oil but it came out of the truck so fast that the container couldnt keep up. I spent 1/2 an hour cleaning the spilt oil off of my drive way. Hands are a little charred from trying to reinstall the plug to slow down the flow of the oil. The filter change I thought would be easy, Whats with the **** design of having some wiring harness directly under the filter?? :{ I think jiffy lube is looking bettter and better next time or I need to find an oil catch container that can keep up with the flow from the pan. I also got a work out rotating my tires. The rear lugs came off good the fronts had to have been torqued way out of spec. I wont have togo to the gym tonight thats for sure. Thanks for letting me vent.



get the oil nice and toasty, drain it overnight, and do the rest next day.



1. Filter comes off much easier.

2. No third degree burns on the fings.

3. Use a gallon ziploc to drop the filter into, I don't spill a drop because as the oil in the filter cools overnight the level inside drops below the seal.

4. Don't even think about letting the pea brains at WifnJif touch your truck.



Mac :cool:
 
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This is what I did and do for my oil changes:



1- Installed new drain plug and tube from Genos Garage.

EZ CHANGE DRAIN PLUG AND TUBE - 18MM - FITS '02 AND NEWER TRUCKS

Members have certainly had problems with the engine oil drain plug that was introduced in 1994. To summarize, there has been confusion regarding the torque specification (the established specification was higher than the new drain plug’s 40 ft. /lb. ) Service manual revisions were slow to implement (see Issue 15, pages 36 and 82, of the TDR). Also, the new plug could fracture, leaving the owner in a real bind. There have also been changes to the oil plug seal (Issue 17, pages 36 and 82).



What is the solution? The EZ Drain Plug helps in several ways. It permanently replaces the drain plug . . . no more leaking plug seals/washers, and the factory plug is replaced, eliminating the opportunity of fracture. But the real benefit of the plug is the way in which it simplifies oil changes. The patented drain tube screws into the oil plug. As you screw in the drain tube assembly, it pushes up a rubber sealed/spring loaded drain valve. Drain the oil, remove the drain tube – thus resealing the drain valve – reinstall the rubber sealed drain cap, and you’re finished.





2- Before starting Oil draining spin oil filter loose but not loos enough to drip any oil.



By loosening the filter when the oil is draining it pulls some oil out of the filter. When you then take the filter out later after oil has drained the oil is not as full in the filter and it makes for an easy removal from the engine compartment.



3- I use a pan that is for draining anti-freeze. I am not sure of the capacity. It is large and yellow and has a handy pouring spout to empty into my 30 gallon used oil can.



Good luck on the next change.



Jeff
 
I had the same problem with my black, plastic oil drain container, so just cut about a 3 in. diameter hole in the center. I have to be use a little more care when emptying it into my 5 gal gerry can, but it works.
 
I never found changing oil at home to be worth it. I'd sooner pull the head off it myself then I would do a oil and filter change myself.
 
Just did my 1st oil change here 5K miles. Ziploc baggie was a GREAT idea. Biggest problem I had was with Geno's plastic wrench. Other then it not working and having to buy a metal one, everything went fine. One of the cleanest oil changes I've ever done, everything went fine.
 
Oil Change procedure

FIRST. . I loosen the filter 1/2 turn to make sure it will come off.



Then, drain into my 15qt oil pan, making sure to open the vent first...



Then, slide the pan over under the filter and punch a hole with an awl in the bottom of the filter. Come back 20 minutes later, it is cool, light, empty and MUCH easier to remove. .



Fill the new filter after lubing the gasket, install it, then the drain plug and remaining oil...



Draining the filter first makes that part a LOT easier...
 
I agree about the oil change, as i have done in the past i started my oil change into the 14qt black container and well i forgot to open the vent cap that makes a difference not sure if that was the case for you but other than that time i have not had any problems draining into the container which i picked up at walmart. Just make sure its level and well i to have had it almost come out the only thing i could do was pray heheheh
 
First I drive to the dealer,then I walk in. Then I tell him the oil and filter is in the pass. floor. Then I tell them how much air I want in the tires. Then I go in the waiting room and drink some of their coffee and read a little of their newspaper. Then I pay $15 and change,thank the tech and drive off. I DO write my own reminder!
 
insanediego2500 said:
well the vent on the container was open. Thanks for all the tips guys. :)



Two things, as I had the same thing happen on a past vehicle.



1. Get a fumoto/finger touch drain valve. They thread in with no leaks, will not pop open, and you never have to worry about removing/retorquing the drain plug. You can open the valve and close it easily to stop flow or take oil analysis samples. Best $20 in mods I did to my truck.



2. I'm assuming you probably have the standard round oil drain pan that most of us have, the same one available at most autoparts stores, walmart, etc. They are made by Blitz in most cases. The problem is that there is so much oil draining from the cummins at once, the little vent(Even open) just can't displace enough air to drain the oil. So just called up blitz, and had them send me a few more vent pieces - which they did free of charge. Drill another hole in the collection pan and install another vent. Works like a charm!
 
DPKetchum said:
First I drive to the dealer,then I walk in. Then I tell him the oil and filter is in the pass. floor. Then I tell them how much air I want in the tires. Then I go in the waiting room and drink some of their coffee and read a little of their newspaper. Then I pay $15 and change,thank the tech and drive off. I DO write my own reminder!

I do the same, except omit reading the newspaper. I find it much more entertaining to watch the receptionist jiggle around the waiting room. :D

Cheers Ken
 
Hey I do that sometimes also!!I change oil in my tractor and lawn tractor. Thats a pain enough to dispose of old oil. I do walk around under mine and look them over when on the lift etc. Don't heed the NOT allowed signs. Their always careful to wipe the couple of zerk fittings and wipe off the pan,top off washer fliud etc. when I do this.
 
I've got several trucks and went looking for a lube center that would take responsibility for their actions... found one here in town that is locally owned and told the guy that the prices isn't the issue... . the quality of the work and ability to notice other things is the important issue to us... . I carry in a list of questions in addition to the sheet they give me back... . I want to know how low something was before they add oil. . and their computer knows we us syn. lube in all boxes...



The biggest issue was that if they strip the pan bolt, they pay, no questions asked... we do them every 5-7,000 miles... . 3 of the trucks have only been to this lube center...



They don't open the air filter box... or fuel filter... we do that on a schedule we set and we don't want them to open the system and allow some dirt to go by... .



BTW the dealer offered to do it for the life of the truck for $26... but we can never get in... its like... """well we're full today can you bring the truck by tomorrow or Wed... you know the drill... and by than the trucks a 500 miles from here...
 
Your result was the same as mine on the 1st time I drained the oil from my '99. What a mess, although mine was cold. I only change oil on a cold engine - it takes longer to drain but I don't risk burns and the filter doesn't leak when spinning off. Since I usually rotate the tires and do a full inspection at each oil change, waiting for the oil to drain is no problem.
 
i use a 20 liter pail that use to be my wash bucket [it was a window washing pail, wide for squeege] for draining my oil... it is just low enough to clear the front axle and large enough to collect all the oil + filter without spilling it... [pouring the old oil from that into the empty windshield washer or oil tubs is another story though... ]
 
Jiffy/Lube is not the way to go on our expensive trucks. If one uses a long punch and pierces the bottom center of the oil filter, he will omit much problems when draining the oil filter. I will admit to the poor wiring routeing beneath the filter. This was poor design.

Wheras I got the coupon tickets when we ordered our 04. 5 CTD, this is nice to have the work done as I am a retired former Cummins mechanic of 36 years and its nice to have this done, but not at any Jiffy/Lube. Its simply not worth the risk. Let the dealer take the risk and the mess if you are not sure of the proper PM route.
 
I let the truck sit for 1/2 hour or so, to let the oil cool down a little (so it doesn't burn me). Then, while the oil's still gushing out (before the catch-pan overflows), I re-insert the plug into the hole to stop the flow for a minute. It's really not as messy as it sounds, although you will get a little on you hands (usually just the fingers) this way. I don't want to drill another hole in the container, because I like it to to remain relatively sealed while I transport the old oil. I also don't like the idea of the quick-change plugs in the oil pan. Just feels (to me) like they could be vunerable to breaking if you run-over something, etc.
 
boonsur said:
I let the truck sit for 1/2 hour or so, to let the oil cool down a little (so it doesn't burn me). Then, while the oil's still gushing out (before the catch-pan overflows), I re-insert the plug into the hole to stop the flow for a minute. It's really not as messy as it sounds, although you will get a little on you hands (usually just the fingers) this way. I don't want to drill another hole in the container, because I like it to to remain relatively sealed while I transport the old oil. I also don't like the idea of the quick-change plugs in the oil pan. Just feels (to me) like they could be vunerable to breaking if you run-over something, etc.



This is the perfect example of someone who needs a fumoto valve. I've had them on 4 vehicles over 350k miles and have had zero problems. Once you've held one in your hand, you'd realize why they can't/won't pop open. Greg at lubespecialist also sells these little clips to go over the valve, just in case you are super paranoid or do heavy offroading. You can stop and start the flow when you want, and you can change the oil HOT, like it's supposed to be changed.
 
I have had no problem changing mine. I just put a 5 gallon bucket under there. It handles the oil just fine and fits under the oil pan perfectly. I also use Hardwick's oil filter socket :)
 
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