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Oil Changing

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After seeing how much oil changes cost, I am going to be back doing it my self. I am considering using a pump like is used on boats. A 5 gal bucket with a pump. Has anyone hand any experience using a pump through the dipsitck?



If not what have you used under the truck to catch that large a volume? I'll be doing it in my driveway. Thanks
 
Just go to Walmart or a auto parts store and get one of those big oil drain pans and you want have any problems.
 
I feel like it's easier to just use the drain plug. A rachet and a short extension makes it easy. I like that there's no notch in the threads like on my 94. No mess untill the plug is out.



I use a pan that has a center drain hole into a resevoir. There is a spout on the side to make refilling the jugs easy for recycling. I drop them at the local oil change shop.



The dipstick tube is very long and small. I don't see how you would ever get a tube in there to suck it out. And how do you know you are at the bottom?
 
Definitely use the drain plug method. The reason being that it allows any foreign material to flow out as the oil drains.



As far as drain pans go I got a five gallon capacity pan at the local auto parts store.
 
Look in the Genos catalog for the drain plugs. The one with the quick connect hose is great and solves the problem associated with a hot oil plug and all the oil goes where you want it. :D
 
No don't do it!!! I hate to :-{} but a number of people have had serious engine damage caused by Geno's plugs backing out. Do a search of the 911 forum for more info.
 
If the plug is installed to the correct torque they won't come out any more than the stock plug. For extra safety use threadlocker as the plug is not gonna be removed any time soon. :cool:
 
ONE MORE THING!!! Make sure you punch out the center of the drain pan. . mine had little holes in it to act like a filter (i guess to stop the drainplug from going in the pan if you drop it??). Anyways, oil comes out of the engine faster than it can go into the drain pan unless you punch the center out... also make sure the air valve on the drain pan is open.
 
I had the same problem with the drain pan filter. I put the drain plug back in about 1/2 way through, and let it drain down. The 15 qt. enclosed drain pan just barely held the 12 quarts. I found getting the filter from below was easy, and not a problem with dripping at all. The only oil on the driveway was a little splash from the top of that covered drain pan.



I used the Costco Delo 400 oil, and the Stratopore filter from the Cummins dealer. They did not have the fuel filter or air filter for the 2003 HO yet. I sent in a sample to Blackstone Labs, and it came back normal for the breakin oil. A little high in some areas because it is the first oil in the engine. I changed a 4300, and will change again at 10,000 with Delo 400.



Any comment on when to switch to Synthetic? Is 15,000 late enough? Even though the schedule allowes me to go to 7,500, it is just easier to remember to hit the 5's and 0's consistently.
 
I like the little quarter-turn ball valves from Geno's. With them you can even drain it right into gallon jugs one at a time. It makes for a no mess change.



Blake
 
I think all the plugs from Genos which were causing problems awhile back were the Super Plugs (Magnetic plugs). I agree with some of the earlier replies that it is best to drain the oil that so that any impurities can drain out.



When my draining oil has slowed to a trickle, I always add about 1/2 quart of clean oil to flush any other stuff out. If this helps or is just a waste of oil, I don't know, but I feel better about it. KL
 
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