Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oil Cooler Lines

[garylmoore]

I have had a persistent drip under the engine that has been hard to pinpoint. Over the weekend it became much worse after a 6 hour drive.
I have not had the opportunity to check fully, but a quick look yesterday showed that the transmission? oil cooler lines are no longer being held in place by the plastic retainers and are lying on the crossmember.

First question: If I find these lines rubbed thru, are they available in OEM or Aftermarket?
Second Question: I noticed funny looking connectors about 2 ft behind the oil cooler where the lines can be split. Does this connector take a special tool to separate the lines?

It just so happens that transmission service was coming this week anyway.
Thanks for your gift of knowledge..
Gary

 

[garylmoore]

The lines are for sure rubbing, but it doesn't seem to have rubbed thru.. yet. The plastic retainer that holds the lines in place is broken and needs to be replaced.
I'm going to get in there this week and clean it up so I can find the leak.
I will replace the cooler lines if I can find them.

 

[garylmoore]

I got under the truck and took a good look at the oil cooler lines. Two of the stud mounted oil line retainers were broken and the cooler lines are rubbing against the seam of the block and the oil pan in two different places. They go from the cooler, wrap around the engine block and end into what looks like a resevoir on the driver's side of the block.
I will have to replace the lines and wondering what others have used as a substitute for the non available line brackets.
The only thing I can think of doing is using radiator hose or something similar to wrap the new lines which I don't see as a great solution.
Thanks, Gary

 

[Timd32]

On my 96 I cut off those funky ends on the hose and slid it over the cooler then used some hose clamps.

For standoffs, I used some rubber hose as spacers every so often down the hard line on. That worked between the hard lines and I had some other small bits in the shop to use off some of the oil pan bolts that have studs every so often.

You can replace the hard lines with hose the full run. But Dorman has the hard lines, they come in bent in half sometimes and shipping can pretty crappy at times for these. Then they don't always fit so I did not use all of them.

Good luck with your project.

 

[garylmoore]

Thank you for the ideas. I know I have probably 3 places where the lines have rubbed thru or are close to doing so. These appear the be the kind of connector they use on fuel lines that you need the donut to press into the lock. Can anyone confirm that? If I can get the lines off, I will use tubing cutters to cut the lines and put them back together as Timd32 suggested. Thanks.

 

[Topzide]

@garylmoore, When you get them off and trimmed for the hose, you might want to flare them slightly so that they wont slip off due to vibration. I've had hose slip when on straight lines before. Also, what about using some fittings and hose to make new lines? There are some kits that have bulk hose with screw in clamp ends the would work for project. JM2C. Good luck with project.

 

[Timd32]

@garylmoore, When you get them off and trimmed for the hose, you might want to flare them slightly so that they wont slip off due to vibration. I've had hose slip when on straight lines before. Also, what about using some fittings and hose to make new lines? There are some kits that have bulk hose with screw in clamp ends the would work for project. JM2C. Good luck with project.

The cooler line still has the flare/bump deal for the fitting, otherwise yeah would flare it a little.

I just cut the hose fitting off, and put it on so the clamp is past that bump deal.

Great suggestion if it was a straight line for sure.

 

[Timd32]

Forgot, yes it's a spring clamp similar to the old Ford fuel lines and uses the same tool. I think these are 1/2" lines, but the assortment plastic tool kit worked, forgot what size exactly the kit usually has the other sizes you will never use.

The new hoses I got with the new spring clamp fitting would not clamp correctly. I think it was the crimp on the hard line, I had to destroy the deal to get it off from what I recall.

 

[garylmoore]

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I will probably cover every inch of line near the oil pan with with split rubber hose since the original retainers are unavailable. I am going to do a transmission service and check the bands while I am doing the lines.

 

[Timd32]

Only pic I could find, one worked on the original line, but the replacement line I had to cut.

I finally looked at my pics and I remember I used a small L bracket like .75" x 1.5" little L's. They were in the hardware bin

Here is a crude drawing.

I just used like 1" pieces of rubber and zipped tied then together down the line.

Also the lines were zip tied to the L bracket.

Will warn you I have really nice Zip Ties that won't become brittle and break.

 

[BigPapa]

P-clamps work well and don’t require zip ties. They can be bent into an oval shape to hold the two easily. They come in different sizes with different size bolt holes.

 

[Timd32]

Those look handy.

 

[garylmoore]

Both those ideas look handy!

 

[Ozymandias]

P-Clamps - never knew how these are called in English. Now I know. Thanks

 

[Diesel Gunner]

P-Clamps - never knew how these are called in English. Now I know. Thanks

I had never heard them called P clamps. I have always called them Adel Clamps?

 

[garylmoore]

I bought 10 of the 1 1/4" for routing a hose, I now have 9 I will probably never use.