Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Oil, Dino VS Synthetic

[RSP]

I just rebuilt a 97 12 valver and I was thinking on running full synthetic, What's the consensus on running Synthetic vs Dino?

 

[Dr.Bob]

I would run dino until its broke in then switch to syn.

 

[GOlsen]

I agree with Dr. Bob. I would wait until at least the 3000 mile point to put in synthetic. The synthetic is too slick to wear your rings in right.

 

[JH8128]

I aree. Break it in with dyno then switch over to Synthetics. Once you switch over you can then go to extended dran entervals with periodic oil analysis. Good luck.

 

[cruiser_2]

Heck they don't get broken in until 100,000 miles so what's the use. Been using dino for 490,000 + miles with no problems... is purely a peresonal choice.

 

[pwerwagn]

Heck they don't get broken in until 100,000 miles so what's the use. Been using dino for 490,000 + miles with no problems... is purely a peresonal choice.

I agree with that. I run dino oil in mine as well, with fairly extended change periods. Sometimes 10K or so, usually 7-8K.

I just cant justify the cost of synthetic in these things. Maybe the trans/xcase/diff, but not the motor.

I also dont really care to deal with oil sampling. I did it a few times, wasnt for me.



To each his own...



--Jeff

 

[Dr.Bob]

Try living were it gets 20 below, you'll change your mind about syn.

 

[pwerwagn]

Yeah, thats true. It never gets cold here where I live. I guess If I lived in a cold climate, synthetic would be the way to go.



--Jeff

 

[EMD-Run8]

I don't understand that. We spend 40K on a truck and then won't spend a few more bucks a gallon for top shelf lube? I like Rotella and dino oils like it. They are good product but they are not in the same league as a quality synthetic. Very good but not that good.

 

[Chester8420]

Putting synthetic oil in a diesel motor is a joke. Especially a cummins diesel. You run the risk of offending it, to the point of it not cranking on occasion. :-laf



We put John Deere oil in all our cummins "vehicle" engines, and NAPA in all the "stationary" units. They break down sometimes, but never because of the oil.

 

[Duluth Diesel]

Run it on conventional for 5k to 10k, then switch over. Full synthetics perform much better at cold temps and high temps. Think about the conditions inside your turbo. Spinning up to 30,000 rpm, 1400 degrees Farenheit. Synthetic oils are worth the money since you protect your investment better and can run longer intervals. When it comes to oil and filters, like anything, you get what you pay for. If I can be of further assistance, let me know.



-Chuck

 

[Grizzly]

I have always run dino oil and I change it every 5,000 miles. I have never had a problem with it. On the other hand, if you are going to switch to synthetic oil, wait till you have at least 15, 000 miles on the engine rebuilt.

 

[pwerwagn]

I don't understand that. We spend 40K on a truck and then won't spend a few more bucks a gallon for top shelf lube? I like Rotella and dino oils like it. They are good product but they are not in the same league as a quality synthetic. Very good but not that good.

Ive tried synthetics in other vehicles, and havent been impressed enough to be convinced.

Ive seen stock turbos on CTD's last 300+K miles with rotella/delo. And it seems as most of the high mileage trucks (I. E, 500K miles and above) run dino oil. I guess there just isnt enough proof for me to justify it (I also wouldnt spend 40K on a truck, but thats me).



I have been impressed with LE607 in diffs though. It seems like good stuff. I think its mineral based, not synthetic though right?

 

[NUKEMAN]

Well, I drive an '03 HPCR, but I can say I just switched to Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Formula and love it. Engine is MUCH quieter, smoother, etc. Like a previous poster said, try living where it routinely gets -20 and you'll appreciate synthetics. At $5. 40 a quart it isn't cheap, but neither are my payments. :{

 

[arthr31]

I run amsoil 15w-40 yr round with extended drains (works out to be about 2 drains a year). In the coldest of days, like a week ago (5F with windchill -25F) even the synthetic 15w-40 has the consistency of honey. No problem. I feel good about running the synths in both my truck and a couple of tractors. . I think the added cost has some added protection in the long run. And, well, it ain't all that much more expensive since i don't drain nearly as much...



Just me, my opinion. I plan on keeping my CTD until there is no more oil and we are either walking or throwing rocks. . Whoa, bad image... :-laf



Another thing to consider is how much oil do you re-cycle a year and how do you do that? Does anyone reburn their oil in the fuel tank? I do, about a qt a fill up of diesel... More lube all around. .

 

[EKlem]

Up here at school, my roomate and I don't have places to plug our trucks in and it is amazing the difference synthetics make. I run 15-40 synthetic in my truck and it cranks much easier than my roomates truck with dino oil when it gets sub zero(he is switching to synthetic next oil change). I also get oil pressure a lot sooner than he does. If you are running in cold temps, I think that it makes way more sense to use synthetic but I can see people wanting to run dino in warm climates.



For me, synthetics also make sense because of the extended drain intervals. Because I am constantly in places where I can't do an oil change easily, the extended interval means that I don't have to worry about trying to fit one in as often.

 

[HRDROKN]

Putting synthetic oil in a diesel motor is a joke. Especially a cummins diesel. You run the risk of offending it, to the point of it not cranking on occasion. :-laf



We put John Deere oil in all our cummins "vehicle" engines, and NAPA in all the "stationary" units. They break down sometimes, but never because of the oil.

John Deere oil is a quality product! Goes right along with Delo... The benifits of synthetics are many... although you will not likely ever have an oil related failure from quality dino oil.



One advantage to Delo (John Deere) is that the base oil is isodewaxed, creating a base that has greater resistance to oxidation. There is a lot more to oil then what is advertised... :-laf



The biggest thing is to run diesel oil as they run aproximately 25% additive package compared to gas engine oil at aproximately 15% additive package.

 

[Skydiver]

My 96 ran Delo up until 160k. Changed every 5k using Fleetguard's best filter.



Upon joining the volunteer fire dept. My truck is idled for less than 1 minute before going to the scene.



At 160k I started using Rotela fully synthetic for 10k and changing filter at 5k.



Being concerned about the oil at 10k I sent for Geno's oil analysis .

At 10k "data indicates no abnormal findings"

"Wear metals",Iron 16--chromium 3--nickel 0--aluminum 2--copper 0--lead 1--tin 0--cadmium 0--silver 0--titanium 0--vanadium 1



"Contaminants", silicon 4--sodium 6--potassium 0.



"Multi-source elements", (ONLY listing findings) molybdenum 32--boron 19



Additive elements,Magnesium 12--calcium 3901--phosphorus 1287--zinc 1452.



Fuel 0. 5--soot <. 1--h2o <. 1



How has fully synthetic oil been refined as compared to dino?



Is this oil at 10k good for more mileage ?



This winter we had 18 degrees and the truck started much smoother .

Thanks for any reply's

 

[Duluth Diesel]

Synthetics, at least Group 4 and 5 synthetics like AMSOIL and Redline, are not refined from crude or petroleum oil. They are engineered from pure chemicals like Polyalphaolefin (group 4) and ester (Group 5). Lesser synthetics, like Group 3 synthetics are mineral oil based. Many other "synthetic" oils are Group 3 or only contain a percentage of synthetic base stock.

 

[HRDROKN]

Actually group IV bases are manufactured from ethylenes (monomer of) which are petroleum based, just reformed and hydrogenated.



Either case produce a base with excellent thermal stability and resistance to oxidation.



I don't feel I have enough experience with group V's to comment.