Oil Drain Plug Still Drips

[jolyman]

Oil Drain Plug Still Drips (Fixed I Hope)

I've had a problem with the drain plug dripping -- a BIG spot every day. Changed oil and checked everything -- all O. K. -- still dripped.

I went to Rocky Mtn. Cummins today and purchased a NEW plug and washer -- Installed parts, filled with oil, drove arround and still drips. .



What gives Any sugestions are very welcome.

 

[Dreher]

Check this thread to see what worked for me.



Bob

 

[JohnE]

flip the gasket

I had a problem after a winter oil change with a big drip (no it wasn't the driver!). Spring oil change I flipped the gasket and no more leaks. My $2. 00 Cummins pan gasket is steel with laminated rubber same as the $5. 00 Mopar rebagged version. I cannot remember which way it works without a leak.

Watch your torque when tightning and save your receipts if using the Grease Stupid service. Comes in handy for getting a new plug or even whole new pan.



-John

 

[Midnite]

You may have already done this, but I'll throw it out anyhow--make sure you wipe the area on the pan where the plug/washer contacts it. Dirt between the pan and washer can cause a small leak.



Mike

 

[jolyman]

Thanks Dreher for the thread link and everyone else for the comments.



I'll go down to Napa and buy a piece of that grey gasket material and make a 2nd larger gasket, RTV it to the pan and reinstall the factory plug and gasket. We'll see how that works and let Y'All know .

Thanks



Well I hope I fixed it. I got the gasket material and cut two 2" dia. gaskets(they fit the pan recess). Punched a 3/4 hole in each with the 3/4 sharpened copper tube (worked great). Cleaned everything up with laquor thinner. I mixed up some J B Weld which I carfully applied between the 1st washer and the pan. Then I applied some copper RTV between the 1st and 2nd washer (so I can use a new one next oil change) and between the 2nd washer and the factory washer. Then carefully assembled the works (so as not to get JB Weld on the plug threads). I torqued the plug just snug and let set up.



Filled with oil (just to make sure nothing stuck together that shouldn't).



Cummins said that engine takes 11qts -- 1 in new filter 10 qts in the pan ( they said to let drain over night to get full drain down of oil for a clean oil change. If you don't let it drain it takes about a qt. less oil).

This has been confusing to me till now .



The dipstick shows full with 10qts. in pan after a complete drain down in a cold engine ( the add mark is at 8qts. So a WARM engine should show about 1/3 down below the full mark but above the add mark). Only 1qt should be added to a WARM engine if it shows at the add mark.



Anyhow -- hope this fixes that problem Time will tell. I don't like an $8000 engine to leak oil



Thanks for all the help especially the copper tube cutter

 

[Extreme1]

Sharpened copper tubing for a gasket cutter... DOH! Why didn't I think of that???



Mine leaked. I tried a new gasket. Still leaked. The only way to stop is to over torque (I can see the bottom of the pan twisting). I find out later the spot welds for the drain plug threads are the problem. I'm amazed I didn't shear the lip off the plug. That was 3 years ago (before the website and before we knew it was a problem), I haven't had it out since! I have a new Geno's HD plug sitting by the phone, wife keeps bugging me to get it out of the kitchen.