Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) oil drain plug stuck

[vssman]

I have one of those fancy Geno's drain plugs with the magnet in the end and it takes a 9/16 socket. Well, I went ot remove it today and it wouldn't budge. The ends easily rounded off and it looks like it's slowly falling apart. I know I didn't overtighen it at the last oil change but I can't get the darn thing off. I tried everything 6 pointed socket, wrench, etc... I even switched to a pipe wrench after the corners rounded completely - Nada. Went so far as a giant pipe wrench on the flange of the plug, not enough surface area to get a good grip and the pan was flexing so I stopped. Any ideas on how to remove a plug without buggering up the threads on the pan?

 

[Nate]

Shoulda put the impact gun on it. That's what I use to get mine off the truck. Easier and quicker than farting around with breaker bars and such.

 

[george]

Maybe a large pair of vice grips. I installed a drain plug with a spring loaded valve for draining the oil in mine

 

[Dutch & Di]

drain plug

vssman, I am the owner of the company who sells the plug you have to Geno's. If you wish to call me at 941-223-1601 anytime 10 am to 10 pm [edt] 7 days a week, we'll be happy to talk to you and try to help you remove the plug. In the over 4,000 plugs we have sold, I have not had anything like this happen but will do all that I can to help you out. Diana Plug It Right!

 

[jmy]

vssman,

Best way I found was a bolt extractor. IRWIN makes a set of bolt extractors that worked for me. O'Reilly Auto parts sell the set for about $25. Only needed the extractor that fit over the 9/16 boalt head but had to by the whole set.
The extractor and 18" breaker bar loosened the plug right up with no damage to pan.

 

[Extreme1]

I'd weld a new nut to the bottom of the old one (weld on the inside of the nut) and use an impact.

 

[MistaMike]

A good air chisel (not one of those $20 ones). Make a notch by aiming directly to the center of the bolt, then a quick zap counter-clockwise will loosen EVERY rounded, rusted, broken bolt and nut. Fan nut, tie rod sleeves, wheel bearing flange, lost wheel lock nuts...

 

[vssman]

Thanks for the replies... The plug looks like it's corroding. Hmmm, this is the first year the state is using a new salt, calcium solution... I've tried my largest set of vice grips and a pipe with no luck on both the hex and flange. The hex end is pretty much rounded off at this point. I thought about the easy out - my set goes up to 13/32" - I don't think that'll be large enough. I haven't tried the air chisel for fear of poking a hole in the oil pan. I do like the welding a nut idea and have a mig welder. D'gang, I'll call you tomorrow and try to bounce some ideas off of you.

 

[Howard Durand]

Is the pan empty or still full of oil?

If it were me, I'd drill out as much of the plug as possible then warm the pan and try working what is left of the plug out with whatever looks promising. A punch or chisel will help loosen the thing. Vice grips can serve to de-form it and possibly break the threads loose. As a last resort, you might be able to bore it out, threads and all, and re thread it for a larger plug or weld in a new boss.

If it gets to that point, I would remove the pan from the truck.

 

[HPetrat]

I hope this is an isolated incedent, as I just installed that very same plug from Geno's on my 98 12V about 4 weeks ago.



On second thought... I'm going out right now to check and losen mine!

HP

 

[RJWEST]

If you drill the plug, in the center. Than progressivly drill the hole
larger to where the threads are just starting to be touched by drill.
you can peel the remaining threads from the pan... ,


If you are a little off center, ok, to much and you have to file the oppsite side
of hole

This takes a LOT of patience and a good sharp drill set .

 

[PKemp]

This is a moot point at the moment but when you do get this solved and put a new plug in, coat the threads with anti-sieze before you install it. You'll never have the problem again and make sure you don't over-torque, 40 ft lbs max.

 

[vssman]

I talked to the owners of the company that makes this plug. They were helpfull in bouncing a few ideas on how to get the plug off. It looks like I'll try the 'weld a nut route' first. Just to make sure it's clear, I don't want anyone to think it was a defective plug. I've had this thing for quite a few years and I honestly believe the salt/calcium solution the DOT started to spread on the roads this year corroded the hex enough to slip the 6 pointed socket. Combine that with a possibly over tightened (slightly) plug and this is what you end up with. My torque wrench is an 'old style' beam & needle unit making it hard to read accurately when tightending the plug. I won't try to remove it until the weekend as I need the truck everyday to get to work. I'll post how I make out after it's removed...

 

[Bseg]

I had the same problem with that plug getting stuck. I used Vise grips to remove it and Genos was nice enough to give me a new plug for free. I made sure that I didn't over torque the new plug and it eventually got stuck too. No salt on the roads here. Vise grips saved me the second time. The anti seize is probably the way to go to avoid the problem.

 

[RJWEST]

? torque value the same with anti seize ?

 

[Dave M]

? torque value the same with anti seize ?

I've never changed the torque value when using anti-seize. I use it most of the time on any thread. Good question. Does it really effect the torque value? If you don't get any responses on this, just go for it.



Dave

 

[Extreme1]

It affects torque value considerably. If you want to be precise, torque it with oil on the threads and mark the pan and plug. Remove the plug, apply the anti-sieze and tighten it until the marks line up.

 

[vssman]

It's out... I tried the 'weld a nut' trick. The first nut I welded on took most of the remaining nub of the hex off. I then tried the largest nut I could find in the tool box and rewelded it to the plug REALLY good. 1 1/16 socket and an imact took it off. I can't believe I would have overtightened it to the point that I would ahve to go through all of this because the threads were not damaged or galled at all. The old plug is back for now until I get another one like a took out. Next time I'll probably paint the outside of the plug with POR15.

 

[Dutch & Di]

Oil Pan Plug

vssman, Again I am so sorry for all the trouble you had to go to to remove our [Plug It Right] oil pan plug. I appreciate the time you took to talk to us by phone. I am glad you were able to remove it and that the threads were ok and you are back in business for now. If you will contact me directly at 941-416-0918 10 am to 10 pm 7 days a week, I would like a chance to keep you a happy Plug It Right [& Geno's] customer. Diana

 

[jleons]

Hi

I tried this oil pan plug and found it to be extremely soft. I have three sets I have collected from friends who had the same problem.

Finally went to a Easy Drain system, from Genos. Works great. No mess and nothing to strip off.

Good luck,

JL