Oil drain valve info.

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www.info@fumotovalve.com

I really hate to admit that I finally have fallen for some "aftermarketeer's" hype. I sent for this product! I know it's available from Geno's but could not get the question answered: "Does it leave the sludge in the bottom of the pan?" This site goes into more detail and I figured I'd give the guy the business that gives me the info. What I will do is remove the valve after my first oil change to see for myself if there is any oil left. I just could not take one more oil change and have oil runing down my arm. Also I think it will allow me to change real fast in the Oregon winter while the engine is still hot. Please don't refer to me as "tommy to stock" anymore!



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99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.
26' Terry w/slide 7500GVWR
"KISS your truck and it will be forever faithful"

 

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OH _ NOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!! Tommy2Stock did it!!!!

I too use that valve since Dec last year, like it, put an extra fiber washer on it to ensure no oil pan intrusion and took it off one time after draining all nite. Might have gotten a shot glass full of oil with it removed. Like it, would change it out for the other style (Geno's) if this give me any problems. Had "dinged" it and it was just harder to open till I "adjusted" the ding.

SOTSU!!
\\BF//

TOMMY's NOT TO STOCK, NAHNAHNAHNAH!!!!!!! #ad
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[This message has been edited by Ben Stair (edited 08-18-2000). ]

 

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I have one--no oil running down my arm, no oil on the floor-it all goes in the drain pan, no leaking drain plug. Don't have to get the torque wrench out anymore either. I can now change oil in record time.

Bill

 

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Whats wrong guys,don't you know that used diesel engine oil is an excellent deodorant and armpit lubricant. Don't throw out that drain oil,a Cummins oil change is good for two years of personal protection.

 

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I really like my Femco/Geno's Garage EZ Drain plug. I purchased this as soon as Geno's released it for sale and wouldn't trade it for anything. #ad

 

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I purchased the Geno's (Femco) plug, but did not install it after examining the plug and my drain pan carefully. It WILL leave a small quantity of oil in the sump, what is debatable is, does the small amount left cause any harm? Because I couldn't answer the question absolutely, I decided to play conservative. But I truly regret not being able to take advantage of the easier changes.

 

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I don't trust this expensive engine to some sort of easy drain device. Just costs too much if it decided to easy drain the engine at 70MPH. I use a standard drain plug and never get oil down my arm. Just a little bit on my hand. Then when the drain plug is torqued at 40 ft/lb I can reasonable expect it to stay that way until I decide to remove it.

I'm surprised at you Tommy!

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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I'm with you Joe,I cringe at the thought of some brush in the road opening that valve 27 miles from the nearest paved road. Whats nice about the Cummins is that the oil drains without removing the plug completely,I usually don't even get my hands oily. Although it is a good idea to remove the plug all the way after the oil drains in order to clean the plug and pan sealing surfaces.

 

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If you remove your valve cover, you will see pockets of oil standing in it. You can't drain all of your oil anyway. But I share the concern about something hitting the lever.

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99 2500 QC, LWB, 5spd, 3. 54 limited slip, Intense Blue, 275HP Injectors
Tow Lite trailer
96 KTM 360 EXC
99 Durango 4x4 360cid

 

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The Femco/Geno's Garage EZ Drain plug has a knurled brass (O-ringed) cap that protects the valve assembly between changes. This protective cap does not stick down appreciably lower than the maximum depth of the oil pan. As Ben stated above, not more than a shot glass remains in the engine after draining the sump. I still believe this is by far the best of both worlds; ease of oil changes and protection from foreign objects.

BTW Joe G. you CAN fracture the OE drain plug at LESS THAN 40 lbs. ft. of torque... I have proven that (my Snap-On 15-100 lbs. ft. torque wrench was used to determine this, which was JUST checked/recalibrated prior to the OE drain plug fiasco) . The flanged head will separate from the threaded shank of the drain plug. This is BY FAR the most poorly designed drain plug I have EVER seen! #ad
I have made numerous posts on this in the past... on this BB and the old CDW website. It will be a cold day in hell before I use the OE drain plug (in its current configuration) on my Ram!



[This message has been edited by John (edited 08-22-2000). ]

 

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John,

I pulled the flange off the original using 60 ft/lb shortly after I got the truck. Fourth oil change I think. Since using 40 ft/lb on the new one I have had no problems and the plug looks like new. My truck has 142K+ miles on it so that's a lot of oil changes. I don't think a drain plug that has never been over tightened will fail at 40 ft/lb.

 

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Joe, I had my very first oil drain plug fail (the flanged head started to separate from the threaded shank) at about 35-38 lbs. ft. of torque using a known accurate torque wrench. Searching past issues of the TDR mirrors my findings. There are many things Cummins (Dodge) could do to improve the design of the OE drain plug that wouldn't appreciably increase unit cost... I'm not going to bore everyone with my design/metallurgical ideas here (I already offered my opinions on the CDW website over a year ago).

 

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Just got mine in the mail yesterday and can't wait to install it. If you are concerned about any amount of oil left in your oil pan, you can modify the quick drain plug to drain more. After all, you did modify your truck, right? #ad
The valve is pretty tough to move hence the tight (hp gas valve type) operation. The opening operation takes two distinct manuvers (to quote the brochure) and I doubt, very seriously, that it will decide to open on it's own while driving down the road. (unless you live in Eureka- you might run over a tree hugger! ) Sorry Joe, couldn't help myself.

I also understand that most oil pans are re-enforced around the drain plug and aren't designed for 'complete oil draining'. The ones I have been into have a thicker area aound plug anyway.
Anyone have the pan off the cummins?

Sorry to ramble, had a rotten day! (can't get my new plug to seal correctly)

Steve.

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98 qc, 4x4, slt laramie, 3:54 ls diff, 2YG pkg, Kelsey trailer brake control, dodge running boards, diamond plate bed rails, silencer ring wind chime on porch, Raven cab-hi camper shell, psychotty air system, T/C lock-up switch, guages next

 

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Steve - I don't like your post! Can't get the valve to seal? Does it NOT seat or is the valve leaking? That reinforces what I intend to do.
1. Drain the old oil overnight.
2. Install the Fumoto valve.
3. Add enough new oil so that Fumoto drains
a bit. Let it sit overnight.
4. Remove Fumoto to see if any new oil
drains.
This should also let me know that It's going to seat properly

 

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No no,, Just KIDDING about the seal! I've got another 2k miles before I have to drop the oil and i'll try it then.

Sorry about my distorted sense of humor, it only gets worse. #ad


Steve.