Oil filter relocation

[AlFischer]

The oil filter location in our 6.7 trucks a s we all know leaves a lot to be desired. What is the opinion of the experts on this? http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...lter-kit-03-07-59l-dodge-cummins-hp10016.aspx

I know it states for the 5.9 but the filter is identical. Should bolt right up. Would sure make life easier for us diehard DIYers!

 

[Deleted member 995608]

After reading about how difficult it is to change the filter on the later 6.7 trucks, I have no doubt my new truck will have a relocated filter.

 

[AlFischer]

After reading about how difficult it is to change the filter on the later 6.7 trucks, I have no doubt my new truck will have a relocated filter.

I did mine the other day. 3 hours a pint of blood and a sq ft of skin! Took off the air intake hoses and air box top. The band clamps are placed in lousy positions. Filter was tight, but the Cummins Gorilla must have retured. Used a strap wrence 24" extension a 1/2 drive ratchet. I had a lot of trouble getting it back on due to the oil on it and my hands. I tried to access it from the side but couldn't quite reach it (big tire and short arm!) Admittedly part of my problem is being 74 and getting weak. It was much worse than my 2001.

 

[JLandry]

...I have no doubt my new truck will have a relocated filter.

Just curious...

Where would you put the filter?

John L.

 

[AlFischer]

Has anyone done this on a 6.7? I hven't given any thought as to where, just if is a good or bad thing to do.

 

[Newsa]

I have been getting the free oil changes. Can't you easily reach the oil filter from the passenger side wheel well?

I predict getting it off is easy, getting the new one on... Probably not as easy.

 

[gsbrockman]

I have been getting the free oil changes. Can't you easily reach the oil filter from the passenger side wheel well?

I predict getting it off is easy, getting the new one on... Probably not as easy.

Since your truck is a '13 2500.....you should not have any problems as your truck still has the older design frame (it can be changed from the bottom). It's the '13 & up 3500's and '14 & up 2500's that are more time consuming.

 

[Newsa]

I thought the 2013 2500 had the new 50,000 psi frames.

Am I wrong about that?

 

[Wal_mart]

not sure about frame strength (probably not) 2013 2500's don't have the extra cross members, one right under the filter.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Just curious...

Where would you put the filter?

John L.

That a great question. But then again, I need to actually purchase a 2014/15 truck first before I can make that choice. Time for me to get busy and buy one!

 

[AlFischer]

I have been getting the free oil changes. Can't you easily reach the oil filter from the passenger side wheel well?

I predict getting it off is easy, getting the new one on... Probably not as easy.

I tried and could touch the filter but not do anything with it. I'm not tiny but don't have the arms of a gorilla. I am going to try taking off the wheel and go in with a metal strap wrench I have.

 

[AlFischer]

It's NOT easy from the side and cannot be done from the bottom. Wanna come over to my place and try it? You ar welcome to stop by!

 

[Newsa]

I think I have the stronger frame. I suspect a truck with manual transmission has a slight bit more room. No transmission cooler, etc

probably will nees to remove the front passenger side tire.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

No need to over-worry. Remove the air intake tube and remove the filter. Almost as easy as my 1997 setup. I have done it 3 times so far.

 

[gsbrockman]

I think I have the stronger frame. I suspect a truck with manual transmission has a slight bit more room. No transmission cooler, etc

probably will nees to remove the front passenger side tire.

Again....based on the truck info in your signature, yours can be removed from the bottom.

 

[AlFischer]

No need to over-worry. Remove the air intake tube and remove the filter. Almost as easy as my 1997 setup. I have done it 3 times so far.

Joe, I followed your procedure and removed the air intake tube. After finally getting it all off (I failed at first to remove the baffle due to not understanding completel). Had some trouble getting the strap wrench on. Finally succeded and got the filter off. Bagged it and only lost a little oil. Getting the nw filter started on the threads gave me grief. Slippery filter and oil on hands. Dropped it sveral times but Finally started and got it on and tightened.

Next change I am going to remove the wheel (securely place truck on stands) and I think I can sit under the wheel well and go in from the bottom. A lot of my problem comes from my age (74) and declining body strength. BUT I AIN"T GONNA LET THAT STOP ME!!

Now, what's your opinion on relocating the filter?

 

[Newsa]

Again....based on the truck info in your signature, yours can be removed from the bottom.

I think so. Will need to find me a larger end cap filter wrench. Also maybe a socket extend bar the cross member is there, but not in the way.

 

[Larry Willard]

I do the same as Joe, and find it very easy the change from the top after taking the air intake tube off the same as both 2nd gens I had.

 

[gsbrockman]

No need to over-worry. Remove the air intake tube and remove the filter. Almost as easy as my 1997 setup. I have done it 3 times so far.

Without a doubt the.....most feasible method.

A copy & paste from another thread:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...uestion?p=2387626&highlight=soapy#post2387626

A post I made on another forum several months ago :

Today I tackled the first oil change on my '13 RAM 3500. I'm at 12,317 miles and 241 drive hours / 0 idle hours (that's an average mph of 51.1). I decided I would share my experiences here based on this being a more search-friendly thread for other member's posts.

I began by removing the drain plug. Previously, I'd asked if the oil comes out like a cow peeing on a flat rock....with answers of a reassuring "yes". That's all validated as of today personally by me. Gotta love those oil-proof gloves.
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I then pondered as to if I was going for oil filter removal through the wheel well or via the top. I actually incorporated both techniques.

I began by removing all of the duct work between the air filter housing and the turbo.
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On edit 01/09/2014 : On my 2nd oil change, and block heater cord installation, I removed the ductwork as one assembly...and it makes everything go a little faster.
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I loosened the old filter (the pic denotes the new LF16035 installed) via the wheel well. Every new RAM/Cummins pickup I've owned has had the Cummins Gorilla in charge of tightening the filters at the MREP. I used a band style oil filter wrench for removal.
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Pic of LF16035 from topside. I can note that I was able to remove the old filter without spilling the first drop into the drip tray / trough. I'll also note that I was able to prime the new LF16035 just as I had my previous CTD's.
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While I was at it, I checked the air filter. I deemed it good for a few more miles anyway. A refreshing 12 oz. Mountain Dew can pictured for reference.
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A couple of shots of the mystery intake silencer....
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Overall, everything went well. I must admit I was spoiled from all of the previous 5.9L & 6.7L CTD's oil filter removals from the bottom. It is what it is....and today was a learning experience. I'm quite sure the next oil change will go a tad quicker. My oil life indicator was at 16%. I reset the oil life to 100%.

Edited this post 01/08/2014 to add that when re-installing the ductwork, get a clean, wet paper towel and squirt a small amount of dishwashing detergent on it. Swipe the sections of intake hose with the soapy wet paper towel; everything goes back together muccccch easier!!!!

I also changed the fuel filters today as well. I'll be adding to another thread here shortly.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I replaced the spring clamp on the little air hose with a worm drive clamp; easier to remove and reinstall.