Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Oil Leak

[WardJ]

Truck description is in my sig. Cannot get the pushrod cover to seal. I have used a Felpro and one from Geno's Garage. It wants to push out somewhere after it runs for a while. This is making me tired. Any suggestions? TIA

 

[NIsaacs]

Read this thread. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/253510-R-R-tappet-pushrod-cover-gasket

Nick

 

[WardJ]

Thank you Nick. I did this in a similar way, but did not wait until the next day to install. I read where some fella said that the vacuum pump seal if damaged or worn out can cause excess crankcase pressure and cause the cover to leak. Any thoughts?

 

[NIsaacs]

If your vacuum system had a large leak the pump could cause a little more blowby but not enough to pressurize the crank case. If your exhaust brake and heater controls are working your vacuum system is fine.

Did you use gasket adhesive or gasket sealer? It needs to be glued to the cover so it can't move...period! If you are pressurizing the crankcase to the point of blowing the gasket off the cover you have a serious blowby issue, pistons, rings of cylinder wall damage. Just a reminder, there is a front and back to the gasket. Did you get it right?

Nick

 

[WardJ]

The material the gasket is made from does not lend itself to be easily glued. I have tried the gluing the one from Geno's, but perhaps I needed to let it set up for 24 hours. I used the yellow 3M sealer which I have used on various engines for years with good success. I know my engine has a little blowby as most will at 250k+ miles. The Felpro had no indication of which was front or rear, but Geno's did and I had it right both times. I will pull it off again and glue it again but wait 24 hours and see what happens. Thanks for the advice, Nick.

 

[NIsaacs]

Another thing to keep in mind, the gasket is like a large rubber band so be sure you slip both ends over the ends of the panel before you start to install it on the sides. If you start the install on one end of the panel and then work your way along the sides to the other end you will end up with a loose gasket on that end. Does that make sense? I feel bad for you, that is a big job to keep doing over. Good luck!

I see you have some serious power mods on your truck, I really like my '01.

Nick

 

[WardJ]

My name is Nick and I am a diesel truckaholic. ;-) That's quite a signature you have there.

The mods are fun, but I don't race it. I have a VanAaken box that I run all of the time with the injectors for a nice boost while towing the 5th-wheel. I added the Smarty and small TST box to have fun with, but hardly use them. I prefer the former for overall performance and economy. I use the smarty primarily for resetting codes if needed, otherwise it rests in its box under the passenger seat. It and the TST together are too aggressive on fueling without a bigger turbo and I'm reluctant to spend the money on that. I am going to have stock HX-35 rebuilt by GilletteDiesel who will change the compressor side and turn it into an HX-35/40. This not for hot rodding but for more air while towing primarily. Other than the housing and wheel, it costs a little more than a rebuild by a good shop. I didn't want to do it myself, because not having any experience at it could result in a very expensive repair bill if it comes apart.

I am pulling things apart again today and will wait 24 hours before I test after gluing the gasket back on the cover. I get the method you suggest for installing it, but the damn gluing process is a distinct pain. Any suggestions for an adhesive, other than what I'm using? (3M yellow)

 

[BigPapa]

I did mine as Nick described about 150K ago. I used the "orange" FelPro gasket and 3M Yellow Weather Strip Adhesive. Glued it on, let it sit overnight and installed it the next afternoon. Have not had a problem.

On a side note, my engine has right at 500K on it with basically no blow-by. VERY little, if any.

 

[WardJ]

Thank you, Scott.

 

[NIsaacs]

I have used the 3m yellow adhesive for years but my tube was dried up and it really is not user friendly, so I picked up an aerosol can of Napa/Permatex High Tack Spray a Gasket Sealer. I turned the gasket inside out so I could spray the inner seam/gap and both sides of the panel. I let is set up a few minutes then bolted in on the engine finger tight plus 1/2 turn with a wrench, then let it set overnight, then sucked it down good the next day. I used the blue Fel-Pro one from Napa.

Nick

 

[WardJ]

Thanks, Nick. I'll pick some up tomorrow morning and give it a go.

 

[BigPapa]

I used the blue Fel-Pro one from Napa.

I thought mine was Fel-Pro but it wasn't blue. It's been too long. Whoever made it, it was the "reddish-orangish" color. You know, toilet plunger color........:-laf

 

[NIsaacs]

I thought mine was Fel-Pro but it wasn't blue. It's been too long. Whoever made it, it was the "reddish-orangish" color. You know, toilet plunger color........:-laf

Lol, yup I know the color. Napa sells that one too for a lot more money, I think it might be Cummins, it looks just like the one Geno's sells. My original was black, rock hard and cracked/split the full length top and bottom. I think/hope they have improved them.

Nick

 

[WardJ]

Nick and Scott, thanks for the tips. I believe it's holding.....finally. 4 count 'em, 4 times I changed that thing and finally got it to hold. Permatex Super Tack Spray, wait 20 minutes to install the gasket on the cover and finger tighten with a half turn on a wrench, let it sit 24 hours and finish the job. So far.....so good. Never had ANY engine confound me this way since I was 12 yo. Thanks for the moral support and the suggestions on solving this.