Archived Oil Loss! What to do?

[bmcwilliams]

Man I feel like an idiot!



Did an oil change (amsoil 15W40, new stratapore, the works).



Installed a new drain plug with a magnet on it. . feeling real smug.



Monday morning my wife calls me from the road, truck made a racket, she said a light saying "check guages" lit up, and she limped to the shoulder; truck died. She and a buddy are sitting there with a loaded hores trailer and a dead truck.



My brain stem told me what it was , but God I didn't want to believe it.



I fired up Cummins # 2 (93 Scotty Camper) and went out to rescue.



Sure enough, the damn drain plug had worked completely OUT and was hanging from the crankcase. I dumped a new load of amsoil in, crossed my fingers and cranked. . she started and seemed OK.



The truck runs OK, but there is a persistent little tapping that wasn't there before.



What next? Truck is under warranty. If I need a short block, I wanna get it NOW. IS there any way the deler can detect the oil loss?



And does anyone have a shop they like in the Triangle/Piedmont area of NC?



I love my truck, but if you guys tell me the way to go is to trade for an 03 while I can. . I'll do it!



While I blame myself for sloppiness with the plug, the original plug went back on and it's stayin'!

 

[illflem]

tough call

They can tell if an engine has been run without oil, bearings and contact parts will have overheated and turned blueish. The ticking you hear is likely a main bearing, it will not heal itself, will only get worse. The tick will be louder on acceleration. The life expectancy of the engine has been greatly diminished. If you take it in and try to claim warranty they will likely deny it and it will go into the computer to follow the truck to trade-in. They may also blame it on non-API rated oil. They will ask for oil change records with receipts for the oil and filters. Don't think that you will be the first person to try and claim warranty for running low on oil, they are very wise to it. If you do oil analysis's they will read high in wear metals from here on out. If it was mine I'd drive it and if the noises and oil tests get worse trade it in. Keep the dealer out of it till then. I would feel bad for the next guy that gets it, but hopefully warranty will cover it for him. Either that or you pay the bill for a rebuild.

Third option is to blame it on Jiffy-Lube



I'm a firm believer in the stock drain plug, works just fine. Magnetic ones are great in trannies and differentials but in an engine if you find metal on the magnet it's already too late, something is drastically wrong with the engine. Would never use what I call a lazy valve for a drain plug for fear of something knocking it open and causing the same problem you've encountered.

 

[Pit Bull]

I agree with illflem but I would trade next week!!!

 

[Joe G.]

I agree completly with Bill. The stock drain plug is the best. No funny business. Using a non-API oil means it's your buck not theirs. No warrantee on that deal.



In fact, I think that a failure caused by a non-stock drain plug will blow the warrantee all by itself even if you were using the recommended oil.

 

[bmcwilliams]

Well you guys confirmed my worst fears, and I must say that I am having an ethical rumbly in my tumbly around trying to claim warranty. I figured they'd be wise, but even if not, I have a hard time deceiving people. . my principles are worth more than a rebuild



That being said. . how much should a rebuild cost?



Should I take it to a DC dealer or a Cummins shop?



Gotta decide if economics direct a rebuild or trade.



Thanks!

 

[bmcwilliams]

I'm confused.



Amsoil is not API rated? I didn't know that. What are the ramifications of that?



What oil should I use, and how do you prove self maintenance?



Receipts etc?



Thanks

 

[Joe G.]

Some of these trucks are going a million miles on Delo and other petroleum API certified oils. I can see no valid reason to mess with other oils. I know the synthetic boosters will raise hell with me for that statement, but that won't change my opinion.



I would check about a Cummins Reman engine instead of a rebuild. That's a remanufactured engine by Cummins. You might just run it until it gives you trouble. Who knows? It might just last a long time. I don't think it will explode or anything like that without giving you plenty of warning. Might make you nervous in the mean time.



I keep pretty good records about when I change my oil and do any repairs. It's not proof of course, but I think that in a warrantee case examining the engine will show if it's been maintained properly or not.



Of course, in my case, warrantee issues are a faint memory. 205K miles on it now.

 

[illflem]

I would definitely have Cummins or another mechanic rebuild it, most dealers just don't have mechanics with enough experience.



There is by no means anything wrong with Amsoil, it's an excellent lubricant. Problem is that DC will try to pull every string they have to deny warranty. Since there is no way to prove it ran dry unless you tell them they will go for something they can prove. My feeling is that bmcwilliams' damage may have been more severe running dino oil dry.



Just writing the truck mileage on the oil and filter receipts is enough to prove you've been changing oil with the proper lubricant at the correct intervals. If you buy in quantities larger than one change keep a separate log of the mileage and change dates along with the receipts till you're out of warranty. It's too bad that DC is so hostile about warranty issues, always document everything that goes on with your truck. If you take it in for a problem and they say there is none then the problem pops up worse even after warranty has expired it's DC's dime to fix it.



It's inspiring to know their are still folks left with bmc's integrity, there's far to little of in this country anymore.

 

[Pit Bull]

Originally posted by bmcwilliams



Gotta decide if economics direct a rebuild or trade.

I'm betting on a trade, but you better hurry the 2002 have a $3000 dealer kickback and they will sell them at invoice.

 

[bavrit]

Oil loss

I installed one of those magnetic plugs, however i read about concerns of them coming loose. I torqued it to 40lbs, ran it for a week and checked it, I set the torque wrench starting at 5 lbs and went in increments of 5 lbs. . Guess what? The plug moved at the 15lb setting!! I used the gasket that was included with the plug. . I have not checked it since, but will soon. . Just a heads up. .

 

[bmcwilliams]

I would destroy the magnetic plug and go back to the factory plug.



I've been changing oil for 30 years and have NEVER had this happen. I used the washer too.

 

[Pit Bull]

I thought I read somewhere that the 2002's have a different oil drain plug?? Can anyone confirm or deny this? If it is different how is it different?

Thanks

 

[bavrit]

Oil loss

I bought the superplug from Geno's, it is the same plug for 94-2001. I bought mine about 9 months ago, the add now says it is using a new Cummins factory sealing gasket, I am not sure if mine came with that gasket??

 

[Joe G.]

It's best to use the stock plug. I put about 800 miles a week on my truck and change the oil every 5000 miles. The stock plug doesn't seem to be a hardship. I've learned how to get it out without making a mess so there is no real advantage to one of the replacement plugs. Why bother with one?

 

[illflem]

Do the superplugs or magnetic type even come with drain without removing the plug option like the stock plug? I hardly ever remove my plug all the way, just a couple of turns and it drains just fine. Give it a squirt of brake cleaner to clean the washer then tighten it up.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

I tried the superplug from Geno's and developed a plug leak. When I removed the plug I noticed that the gasket had threaded up into the bottom threads of the pan. I've tried a new washer and am now using a copper washer, both with the oem plug, and I still have a small leak. Cummins told me about some sort of lube that you apply to the washer. Does anybody know what stuff they were referring to?



I'm a bit peeved about the stupid "super plug", the only thing it did for me was hose up my pan.



Thanks,

Dan

 

[DHess]

RoadWarrior,



Put a bead of Blue RTV between the easher and the pan. Should stop the leak. Next change peel the RTV off and put on another bead. I used this on my '76 Cordoba for years after I dented the pan at the plug.



Dave

 

[Prairie Dog]

All may not be lost!

I had a little extra time today so I called Cummins N. W. in Wa. state and yes they do work on dodges. (425 235 3454) The tech told me he wouldnt think too much damage had been done if the engine was turned off shortly after the lamp came on. He said they would check the oil presure, remove and inspect the pan, bearings and check out the top end by pulling the rocker covers. He thought the tick you here would most likely be one of the cam followers given your scenario. Remember the light comes on at appx 10psi so you may of still had oil circulating when it was turned off. If the truck was not working hard it may be just fine!

good luck.

 

[BCaldwell]

Yuo may get by rolling in a set of bearings. good luck Bill

 

[Fireman Dave]

Originally posted by bmcwilliams

Well you guys confirmed my worst fears, and I must say that I am having an ethical rumbly in my tumbly around trying to claim warranty. I figured they'd be wise, but even if not, I have a hard time deceiving people. . my principles are worth more than a rebuild

Good for you, bmc! I would only hope that if I bought a used truck, it would have been previously owned by someone like you. Taking responsibility for your actions - no matter how accidental and well-intentioned - is the admirable thing to do. You know you'll feel better for it - even at a financial cost to yourself.