Here I am

Oil Pan replacement Question

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2004 Turbo Replacement

injector nozzles ???

I have to replace the clutch in my 06 ram, When I have the transmission out, will i still have to jack up the engine to get the pan out?

Dennis
 
Yes. I think so. That pan is so so close to the crossmember, and you have to deal with the pick up tube.
Thanks Wayne
I sure was hoping that I would be able to pull it out from the back. It's four wheel drive if that helps.

Thanks again
Dennis
 
Wayne, do you know if the main caps are below the pan rails. If so that and the oil pump pickup tube would definately mean raising the engine at least a few inches. I have never really paid enough attention if I saw pictures of a bottom end or at a ripe age did not remember. I do know the pickup tube is an issue.
 
The Cummins B is a full skirt block, like a Mopar 440, the main caps are not below the pan rail, but the oil tube is. I really don’t think the pan will sneak out.
 
Good to know, my pan has some rust built up from the previous owner, someday I'll change it to V4A Pan.

Which pan is that? I got another Cummins pan, but did the 3 step POR15. If I had to do it again, I’d get the sno depot stainless pan if I could afford it.
 
Sorry,
V4A (1.4401) [316] is an european abbreviation for stainless steel, seawater resistant.
V2A (1.4305) [303] is stainless but not seawater resistant.
 
Last edited:
Well then I stick with the Tin pan, the 304 is the cheap one that has corrosion.
Would have to be painted to last under a Truck in the Rustbelt.

"300 Series are chromium-nickel alloys, which achieve their austenitic microstructure almost exclusively by nickel alloying, some very highly alloyed grades include some nitrogen to reduce nickel requirements. 300 series is the largest group and the most widely used. The best known grade is Type 304, also known as 18/8 and 18/10 for its composition of 18% chromium and 8%/10% nickel, respectively. The second most common austenitic stainless steel is Type 316. The addition of 2% molybdenum provides greater resistance to acids and to localized corrosion caused by chloride ions."
 
I always thought all of the 300 series were plenty adequate for anti corrosion, and the 400 series not so much. The cheaper stainless exhaust systems are 400 series.
 
So, being where I live it's STUPID QUESTION TIME. Do they rot from the outside ?, I assume so since the inside has rust preventative oil. Is this from chips or the factory paint peeling ?. Cleanup the pan and paint with bed liner ?.
 
I always thought all of the 300 series were plenty adequate for anti corrosion, and the 400 series not so much. The cheaper stainless exhaust systems are 400 series.

316 would be adequate, but cost more.
We do all in 316 when we touch stainless Steel.

Even on outside construction parts the 316 is mandatory, if one is using 304 and the client finds it he will refuse the work.
304 is used on interior parts like handrails and so on. Not in wet rooms.
 
So, being where I live it's STUPID QUESTION TIME. Do they rot from the outside ?, I assume so since the inside has rust preventative oil. Is this from chips or the factory paint peeling ?. Cleanup the pan and paint with bed liner ?.

Yes they do, the paint is as thin as civilization, a chip from a small stone goes through and sometimes the paint just seems to fall off.
 
Regarding parts like this oil pan made in Stainless, you likely won’t find it in 316 unless you make it yourself. I’ve seen hardware in 316, but most of anything fabricated for non food purpose is 304 around here.
 
Back
Top