Oil psi gauge install

[Benson]

For those who have installed an oil psi gauge, where did you tap in for your sender? I thought the smaller plug at the top of the head not far back from the thermostat housing was oil. It ain't, it's water as are the larger plugs.



The sender unit is a little big for the top of the filter housing but I may have to use that.



Thanks.

 

[Diesel Power]

For those who have installed an oil psi gauge, where did you tap in for your sender? I thought the smaller plug at the top of the head not far back from the thermostat housing was oil. It ain't, it's water as are the larger plugs.



The sender unit is a little big for the top of the filter housing but I may have to use that.



Thanks.

top of the filter houseing is best :-laf

 

[rbattelle]

I currently have mine atop the filter housing. But I use a 3 ft. isolator line and the sending unit itself actually sits above the driver-side of the radiator. In my opinion, it's a good idea to run an isolator because the vibration of the engine and the high oil pressure these engines make spell doom for a sender mounted right to the filter head. That also takes care of the problem of not having room for the sender right on top of the filter head.



Later this spring I'm moving my sending unit over to the main oil rifle on the driver-side of the block.



-Ryan

 

[Benson]

Thanks Ryan. This is a productive post. Sounds like the main galley is the best spot. I'll search it out.

 

[JStieger]

Benson-



I run mine off the oil filter head via -3AN stainless line directly into the cab. I originally had an electric gauge off this port and even with a needle valve and long line to the sender, the sender kept on going TU. Others with senders seemd to have no problems though. When I install my twins I will move the oil pressure tap to where Ryan indicated above. Above the CP3 on the left side of the block is an allen head metric plug M10x1 that you can remove for this. You could use this adapter fitting for example:



$7. 20 Part Number = 32MM-10-2 from www.fittingsandadapters.com

 

[rbattelle]

the sender kept on going TU.

Yeah, mine too. I'm also running -3AN line (or is it -4?).



Good post, Julius.



-Ryan

 

[dclassens]

I don't mean to hijack this post, but I have some ????

1. I have a Isspro 100 and 80 lb gauges. which one do I use.

2. Both are electrical type gauge. Will they work?

3. Why is the oil pressure gauge on the dash not okay?



It sounds like you guys are using mechanical gauges with oil line. What is an isolator?

Thanks in advanced and I hope to get these mounted ASAP!!!



Dave

 

[rbattelle]

I don't mean to hijack this post, but I have some ????

1. I have a Isspro 100 and 80 lb gauges. which one do I use.

2. Both are electrical type gauge. Will they work?

3. Why is the oil pressure gauge on the dash not okay?



It sounds like you guys are using mechanical gauges with oil line. What is an isolator?

Thanks in advanced and I hope to get these mounted ASAP!!!



Dave

You'll need the 100 psi gauge. I have the same one (electric, not mechanical). By "isolator line" we mean a long tube, one end of which is attached to the engine and the other end is attached your sending unit. The tube (hose) provides a great deal of damping.



As for the oil pressure "gauge" in the dash, it's not a gauge. Read this.



-Ryan

 

[dclassens]

rbattelle-you are the man!! The gauge I have is an isspro R8621 with sender #R 8917. Will this cut the mustard? Who sells the isolators?

Thanks Again!!

Dave

 

[nickleinonen]

Who sells the isolators?

for just the hose to keep the sending unit from dying as quickly as it could, a simple 18" grease gun hose would work. .

 

[rbattelle]

The gauge I have is an isspro R8621 with sender #R 8917. Will this cut the mustard?

Absolutely, no problem. As Nick points out, no one sells isolators - you have to make your own. Grease gun hose works. Personally I like braided stainless line because it looks purty.



I can list the necessary part numbers for those that want to make a hose. It's not hard to find what you need at Summit or Jegs or your favorite hose/fitting shop.



-Ryan

 

[Benson]

Thanks guys, good stuff. Nice set up JSteiger.

I think I spied that fitting in there, Sure doesn't look easy to get to though.



Would the braided teflon line they give you for a fuel pressure gauge work OK for mounting the sending unit away from the block? We're talking about much more psi and heat and stuff.

 

[rbattelle]

Would the braided teflon line they give you for a fuel pressure gauge work OK for mounting the sending unit away from the block? We're talking about much more psi and heat and stuff.

I'm not sure what kind of line you're referring to. Here are the parts I used:



1/8 NPT - to - -4AN (need 2)

Braided -4 hose

Hose ends (need 2)

Coupler (need 1)



Those aren't necessarily the parts I bought, but they're roughly equivalent to what I have. I think I used only Aeroquip AN fittings, Summit hose, and I have a Swagelok brass 1/8 NPT tee at the sending unit end of the hose so I can tap it there if necessary.



-Ryan

 

[Benson]

You guys are tops. Ryan, you get an A+ for the informative posts. A list with links with pics. It doesn't get any better than that.



Oh yeah, could you come over and install it? :-laf



Now if you all could just decide which fuel pump mod I should go with. (Walbro or FASS or other, I'd be pretty happy. Oh yeah, and which box. Then I'll stop..... really... ... after the turbo.

 

[nickleinonen]

Now if you all could just decide which fuel pump mod I should go with. (Walbro or FASS or other, I'd be pretty happy. Oh yeah, and which box. Then I'll stop..... really... ... after the turbo.

:-laf:-laf:-laf... yeah, that is tough isn't it... i have almost made up my mind on the fuel sub system [cat 2u filter secondary, 10u stocker, 15u primary,strainer, regulator with boost reference]



pump????? i have not decided on... i want big flow [-12 in/out], ~30psi capable



new -12 pickup->100u strainer->pump->15u filter->-8 line->stock filter->regulator->2u filter->cp3

 

[Benson]

OK, coupla more dummy questions.



Doesn't the sender need to be grounded through the threaded connection? If you use an isolating hose it wouldn't be grounded right? Need to run a ground wire somewhere? Also, how would you mount the sender at the end of the hose?



Any tricks needed to remove the plug? It looks like a bear.

 

[rbattelle]

My sensor is not grounded through the threads (I don't think). There are 2 pins on the sensor, and I think one of them provides a path to ground (through the gauge).



The sensor mounts in the 1/8" NPT coupling I posted (last item in the list). So if you were to hold the hose assembly horizontal with the leftmost end being attached to the engine and the rightmost end being where the sender is mounted, the components would lie in the following sequence:



1. 1/8" NPT - to - -4AN fitting

2. -4AN hose end

3. 3' of hose

4. -4AN hose end

5. 1/8"NPT - to - -4AN fitting

6. 1/8" NPT coupler

7. Sending unit



If it's still not clear I can draw up a quick diagram... or take a picture.



-Ryan

 

[Benson]

Thanks again. I picked up the materials today. Hope to install tomorrow. Just have to figure out where I want to mount the sender.



One more dummy question. (Is there a limit?) Will I need to bleed the air out of the line?

 

[rbattelle]

Will I need to bleed the air out of the line?

Nope, don't worry about it. Just hook up and go.



-Ryan

 

[rbattelle]

That lousy Isspro sending unit is out on me again. They just don't stand up to this engine. That's 2 senders this engine has eaten.

I'm running an old Autometer Phantom unit temporarily. I guess I'll order another sender ($30).

Ryan