Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) oil seep - KDP victim??

[Texas Diesel]

I have an oil seep (not leak) with a goodly amount of oily dirt build up near the water pump ( have I just entered the KDP Zone? ) nothing under truck and it has 119k miles.



Ok you experts what do you think, is this typical of KDP damage or just a seepy cover?



"seeping in Texas"

 

[illflem]

The only way to really know is to remove the fan pulley mount. While you're at do the tab or jig fix, to wait is begging for a problem. If it's your '98 you're speaking of it's the second most susceptible model year for pin fallout.

 

[Texas Diesel]

Ok I'll check there. How do I get a jig? Sorry I have to ask but I dont have a phone line yet and have to borrow one.



Correct me here: If I do the jig and hit nothing that means the pin is in place or completely fallen out.



Is there a way to determine if it is in it's hole or MIA?



The oil seep I can live with.

 

[Rammin On]

Correct ... . when you drill . . if you don't hit the pin . . the pin is either intact . . or it fell out . . if you don't see signs of damage ie. cracked front housing or dented front cover ... chances are the pin is in place.



Let us know what you see behind the fan hub.

 

[Texas Diesel]

Thanks! I'll investigate this weekend and post results Monday.

 

[gitchesum]

IMO, unless you have a large amount of oil under your truck everytime you park it, I doubt your KDP is the problem.

My front seal was leaking slightly causing the dirty buildup on the front of the engine.

To replace the seal, it's easier to pull the timing case cover. While it's off, you can tab the KDP. Kill two birds with one stone.



Since I've replaced the front seal, I haven't had that buildup.

 

[Texas Diesel]

Cant get the fan hub off this weekend due to weather. I will try next Thursday...



I cleaned the timing case off to the exhaust side of the fan hub. After 1 hour of driving it was wet with oil . I will know more after the hub is removed, still hoping it is a leaky gasket.



If it is cracked, then can I assume the pin is in the oil pan now? AND, if the case is not cracked 'bad' why not just clean it off and use JB weld to seal & slow the oil leak down till better weather is here (outdoor garage) to replace the case?

 

[gitchesum]

Sone guys will tell you it can't be fixed with JB weld but i am one that will tell you it will.

I fixed my KDP damage with JB weld and RTV sealant. It hasn't leaked a drop since. That was about 8 months ago. If the pin has fallen out, you do need to replace it, so pulling the cover is a must. Just tap a new pin in place and tab it. Put it back together, clean the crack real good(we used Brake Cleen) then tap it back in place and JB weld it. You wil also need to RTV it between the cear case and the block. The gasket between the two could have been moved out of place when the gear case cracked.

 

[illflem]

Some folks here have used JB Weld for a temporary fix. At least one dealer used it as a permanent fix under warranty



Study the cracks in this picture and you will see there are cracks up against the block that can't be repaired with JB without removing the case. Also notice that there are chunks of case that look like they're barely holding on, ready to fall off and do more damage. Don't delay your repair too long.



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[Texas Diesel]

I guess it would depend on how badly the cover is cracked, some seem to be FUBAR and others just slightly cracked. ILLFLEM, that picture will keep me awake



Why is the pin necessary to put back in?



The $1500 in labor + $1k in parts is hard to take, sure wish I had an indoor garage



I'll know more on thursday but I'm getting the feeling that no matter what I find the best fix is to spend $2500.



Thanks

 

[gitchesum]

The pin keeps the timing case from moving.

 

[Joe G.]

If you have it replaced by the dealer or some other shop it would be a good idea to have them show you the new case to make sure that the pin bore is stepped so the KDP can't come out.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I saw a 97 Ram today that had a crack in the gear case under the vacuum pump. Turns out someone had "fixed" a crack from the KDP with silicone RTV (in the usual place near the fan hub) in the past. Eventually the case cracked on the other side from the vibration and load on it-- and became a "2-piece" case. Not good to have the vacuum pump and P7100 waving in the breeze, so to speak.

 

[Texas Diesel]

Thursday Night update:



NO CRACK!! The gasket between the timing case and engine block has been squished out and that is where the oil is coming from, directly adjacent to the KDP.



Must remove the timing case to replace gasket, or should I just silicone it (after case removal and cleanup)?



Now that that is over I need to do the jig fix ASAP. We can only work on it during the weeknights. How do I get hold of a jig for a single night?



I will be out of town for the weekend.

 

[Joe G.]

If you have to take it apart to replace the gasket then you might as well install a blocking tab. The jig fix is designed to make blocking the KDP an easy thing to do. The idea is to avoid getting into the gear case by using the jig. Replacing the gasket is NOT an easy task. You have to remove the cam or pull off the cam gear in order to remove the gear case to get at the gasket regardless if you replace the gasket or silicone it. From your description of where the oil is leaking from I suspect that the KDP got you and damaged something inside. Can't tell until you get the gear case cover off.

 

[illflem]

I've known a couple of people who have had successful case to block leaks fixed by the dealer where they remove the cover, loosen the bolts to the block and injection pump enough to squirt some silicone in the gap. No fooling with the cam. It may not be the "correct" way to do it but it seems to work.