About a quart will stay in the oil cooler, passages, and head when you drain the oil.
The in-cylinder EGR is comprised of 5 main parts. Timing, 3rd injection event, cam grind, pistons, and the turbo. They all add to the oil blackness, but I believe that the piston design is the leading cause of the black oil.
I have replaced my cam, turbo, and run tuning that does not have a 3rd injection event and does not run the extremely late timing that stock does and my oil is still BLACK.
This last winter I did an experiment on my motor. I always wondered how much of the black was from the previous oil, so I changed the oil 3 times over a period of 150 miles. I also did engine flushes on the first two changes, and while doing the second change I pulled the valve cover and used a syringe to pull all the old oil out of the freeze plugs, etc. I also poured about a gallon of clean oil into the motor and breifly started it to push the clean oil into the cooler and passages, and the last of the dirty oil out. So when I added my normal Amsoil I was amazed to see perfectly clean oil after running the motor for a few minutes. (as you can see in the photo below).
I checked the oil a few times before 500 miles and it was still pretty clean, but was BLACK by 1500 miles. It now has 4K miles on it and looks like normal BLACK oil. While the oil does leave a small stain on the motor, I am fairly certain my oil didn't turn black again due to the detergent factor and from the motor design.
So, based on my modifications to the motor I can safely claim that it's the piston and nozzle design that puts soot in the oil.
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