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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Okay!! Doing The Big Trans Outting!!!

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Banks Plate Question

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axel Nuts

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Should have the new converter end of this week, and will be slowly doing this project over the weekend and into next week, on my back, in my garage(has a furnace luckily)



Dave Goerend is also sending me a front drum assembly to replace so the entire trans needs to come out.



What in this project, from those who have experience should I look for in terms of surprises?



Will a jack under the oilpan with a block of wood hold the engine up? Do I need to disconnect all the turbo hoses etc? Will the engine move when I disconnect the trans or is it balanced?



Any tricks in removing the transfer case?



Basically, if there are any surprises that aren't obvious, or any tricks learned along the way I would greatly appreciate the information to make this easier... not looking forward to the job, only the results... this stock converters clutch is pretty toast and it's gotta go!!!!



Chris
 
OK, I'll try here. I'm not an expert. I just tried to find a step by step that Chad Sheets posted some time ago and I cant.



Will a jack under the oilpan with a block of wood hold the engine up?



Yes and No, I have read once that the balance is more forward than the back of the oil pan.



Do I need to disconnect all the turbo hoses etc?



I would not think so, Only things that connect to the trans. And the batteries.





Will the engine move when I disconnect the trans or is it balanced?



You will need to spread the frame to get the cross memeber out. You can make a frame spreader with iron pipe, all thread, nuts and washers.



If anyone can find Chad's post it is really great.



AC
 
Thanks for the reply.



Spread the rails??? HHhhmmm... might try and yank the trans out without removing the member then.



My concern with the engine not being balanced is that it might pull on the turbo hoses/intercooler etc if it moves.....



Any further information would be greatly appreciated!!!



Thanks
 
Frame Spreader

A frame spreader is nice, but you can use a 3 pound hammer to knock the cross member up then bang one side rearward till it will drop out.
 
You can use a couple of 2 -3 ft prybars,slide them between the frame/crossmember,and work it rearward,it usually comes right ou,the trick id to get the crossmember as high ad possible(up against the body before you try to slide it back.
 
IMHO, don't worry about supporting the engine. It will chill out just fine for a few hours while you do your thing on the transmission bench.



To remove x-fer case... . disconnect the shift linkage, take out the nuts (6 of 'em) and yank it. They're pretty heavy... . so be ready for it.



Worry about getting your transmission rebuilt properly... . there's a lot more to screw up inside that little aluminum case than there is with everything else under/in font of/behind it... .



Matt
 
The engine will be fine, just don't let the weoght of the trans hand by the bellhousing for more than a minute or so. With the X-fer case attached it will be real tail heavy. The TC weighs about 70-100 LBS so be READY if you pull the trans and then the TC. It will be very difficult to pull the trans without removing the crossmember. WHen I did mine I ran a 2 inch ratcheting strap from the front of the crossmember under the rear axle to the rear hitch and then ratcheted until it was as tight as I could possibly get then wacked it with a hammer then ratcheted until it came out. A porta power works for spreading the frame.
 
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... . when Dad and I did the rear-main seal on my truck, we used a piece of 4"x4" (3. 5"x3. 5") pressure treated (just because it's green and has arsenic in it... . ) and a 6-ton bottle jack. Worked like a champ.



Matt
 
Are you guys sure the cross member has to come out??

My 95 2WD the trans would come out without moving the cross member.

Just drop the t-case then slide the trans back, remove t-converter and then bring trans forward and down. Probable need to turn/tilt the trans.

Let me know, as I need to take mine out soon and it is 4WD.
 
Not a full rebuild, but the pump and front drum has to come out. I'm not touching anything else in the trans. Goerend sent me a complete assembled drum... so it's simply take out the old, stick in the new.



Got the converter in the mail yesterday... . WOW :eek:



I can't believe how big and how heavy that converter is!!!!!! I use a 7" converter on the race car so this is a little bit of a contrast for me.
 
2 weeks to heated shop with hoists at Macomb Community College. (Just thought I'd throw that out :D )



If you RAISE the crossmember just a bit, it slides out really easily. I think the fact that it's slightly V shaped must not be obvious to some so they feel the need to do some crazy things to the frame to remove it. Maybe it's fine to do but I wouldn't want it done to my truck.
 
Auto trans R&R

Hi Chris, the engine balances just fine on it's own mounts. Yes you should plan on removing the crossmember. The above posts give good advice: all the methods work, I used a porta-power to spread the frame rails, and this works real good.



Rent a real good trans jack, and get a friend to help. Strap the transmission to the jack so it won't slide/fall off onto you.



It is easier to remove the transfer case first, then the trans. It is much less awkward then.



Good luck. Greg L The Noise Nazi
 
Greg,



This is Chris - We spoke over the phone while you were skiing a couple weeks ago... . you had offered to help me, but I'm in a bit of a jam with a Florida trip coming up beginning of April and I can't tow with the condition of the stock converter... . so I'm just going to have at it and get it done... . going to start tonight.



Chris
 
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