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Old Ford engine

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M11 with no data link connector

GAmes

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I'm in the process of restoring a '54 Ford Skyliner. It has a one year only V8, the first Ford overhead valve engine, a 239. One of it's quirks is the rods are drilled with a oil squirter hole. There isn't much about their orientation in the shop manual, but from what I can discern the rods were all installed backward on my new pistons. The manual calls for left and right sides of the engine, and if they mean the driver's side is the left side they are backward. The only reference to them on-line I could find say they should be on the cam side of the rods. Assuming that is the case they are backward. I have two options, remove the rings and take them back to the machine shop or install them so that piston numbers are on the wrong side of the engine. I'm inclined to have numbers 1 thru 4 on the driver's side. The pistons, rings, bearings and block are new. The crankshaft has been ground so the only original parts are the connecting rods. In the grand scheme of things does it really matter which side of the block the rods are installed?
 
Will this help at all?

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Nick

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I agree that the oilers should face inside. I don’t agree about swapping banks. If the pistons are directional, meaning if there’s a front or top side, they may be offset in some way. I’m assuming the pins are press fit? I would play it safe.
 
Thanks Nick. It confirms the rods are backwards. Since I'll be long gone before the engine is opened up again only a few people (those who read this) will know my stamped numbers are installed on the opposite sides of the engine.
 
I agree that the oilers should face inside. I don’t agree about swapping banks. If the pistons are directional, meaning if there’s a front or top side, they may be offset in some way. I’m assuming the pins are press fit? I would play it safe.

Yes, they are directional, so my thinking is the only real differences in the assemblies are the numbers stamped into the rods. Other than that they are the same. If I were to install the number one rod and piston assy in the rear of my Cummins would it make a difference if everything except the rod itself is new?
 
I agree that the oilers should face inside. I don’t agree about swapping banks. If the pistons are directional, meaning if there’s a front or top side, they may be offset in some way. I’m assuming the pins are press fit? I would play it safe.

I think the pins are floaters, if so you can push them out by hand. What say you Gary?

Nick
 
Nick you are the man! I just went out and swapped one over. It never occurred to me that I could push the pin out with my finger. Thanks for getting up early this morning.
 
You are welcome, Gary! I was able to help one time out of several on this car, lol

On the Cummins, the rod is not sharing a journal with another rod like a V8 does. On an in line 6 the rod bearing is in the center of the rod and cap, with room on each side for the radius of the rod journal to clear the bearing. On a V8 the bearing is offset, away from the journal radius and why it is important to get them right. The offset is toward the journal edge with the flush side matched to each other. Does that make sense?

Nick

Nick
 
Yes it makes sense, I knew there was a reason why the rods had to be placed in the correct direction, but didn't know why. That is why I was going to simply install the pistons on the opposite bank. The result would be the same.

So since I have the answer to that I'll hit you with another question. The cam gear picture in my reprinted Ford service manual shows a different timing mark in relation to the keyway slot than the gear I took off and the new Cloyes cam gear. The timing marks on both crankshaft bearings are the same as the picture. I neglected to count the pins between the timing marks when I disassembled the engine. So do I install the chain according to the timing marks or to the position of the keyways? I have read that it is the #6 piston that is at TDC compression when the timing marks are on the oil filter (left) side so I'm trying to mentally picture valve overlap, but that isn't necessarily what I need.
 
Never mind about the cam gear. My manual has two pictures, one correct, one wrong. I finally sorted it out after doing some research.
 
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