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Old gold

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New/old daily driver, 1951 3600 (3/4 ton) Chevy

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I troll craigslist and fix up old tools to put back into service. Recently found a 10" skill saw from the good old days. All aluminum body, weighs 30 pounds. Works great, leaks oil. I need to replace a gasket that i cant find. Anyone know where I can get a service manual or a good way to make a gasket. Preferably something like rtv. Its a model 107.

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Recently found a 10" skill saw from the good old days. All aluminum body, weighs 30 pounds. Works great, leaks oil. I need to replace a gasket that i cant find. Anyone know where I can get a service manual or a good way to make a gasket.

NICE score.

I have a drawer full of various thickness and material gasket sheets.

I use an old circle compass and and metal ruler to lay out a gasket and then an Xacto knife and a cheap hole punch set (from Harbor Freight), to cut out a gasket.

If I don't have an old gasket to work from, first I'll make a template from thin cardboard (think shoe box) to test and adjust for fitment before cutting it out from the gasket material that I have chosen for the job.

Generally it is fast and easy to do.

For the gasket that you need, it looks like you could simply use the cover plate as template, at least for the outside dimensions.
 
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30 pounds even according to the bathroom scale. The blade looks original to the saw. Its about double the weight and cut width of a modern blade and the thing still blew through a 4x4. Certainly didnt get much use. Ive also been trolling for a beam saw just cause. I couldnt figure out how to remove the spring to fully dissassemble it and put the gasket in correctly. It has a wound captured spring like a clock.

I also have a 36v cordless makita, and grandpa's hypoid makita. I had a recent project where i stacked two sheets of 1 1/8 subfloor and put the two against each other for 8ft rips. Grandpa's won. Wasnt even close. The cordless used up a bar of both the batteries with each cut. Grandpa's blew through it four times faster, so the corded dinosaurs still have their uses.
 
@KBurgoyne, You also need to pick up some gasket shellac. Most auto parts stored have it in a small brown bottle. This was the "glue" that was used years ago when putting things back together. Sometimes, you didn't even need a gasket, if the parts were machined "close". Glad to see the older stuff being "loved" and used as intended!
 
As a general rule, I take the price of a new POS and see how far that money goes on old stuff. I love my little 12v hilti stuff and the makitas, but a battery for either cost more than the aforementioned skilsaw, or a bench grinder, or a 4x24 belt sander or a 190lb bench vise if you look hard enough. Maybe im just cheap.
 
If I caught a guy on the job pinning the guard back it would be the last time he did so on my job. :eek:

Was wondering if anyone was gonna comment on that and if you look even closer, you'll see that the THIN barely 1/8" strip of 6 x 12 that I was ripping off could EASILY have gotten caught INSIDE the retracting guard and then creating a more uncontrollable dangerous situation then pinning the blade guard back.

Since that saw is much too large and unwieldy to be able to simply hold the guard back with a thumb while entering the cut, pinning it back is what actually made it SAFER to use in this case.

Been doing carpentry and woodworking for almost 40 years now, and discovered early on that using the most important safety feature of all (ie my brain) to asses a situation before any tool operation, is far more important and useful then using OSHA approved guards meant to apply in all situations for all people, as if there is such a thing.

Knock wood, still have all my fingers and toes.
 
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I used a saw like that back in my rough framing days. It was so heavy that it was only brought out on special occasions.
I have made many a gasket working on old vehicles and farm equipment. My local parts house usually has a selection of different types of gasket material.
On one fix I had the transfer case on a John Deere gator that was leaking. The t-case was buried and would have taken a lot to remove. I was able to split the case about 1/4" in the machine, dig out the old gasket material and used a transmission pan sealer. This is the same type of sealer that you would use on the pan of your 68RFE transmission. It wasn't the easiest job but saved a ton of labor.
 
That sounds like a winner. That part with three screws and the blue stuff around it in the first pic is not a cover. Its a housing for the drive gear and when you lift it the drive gears for the blade come with it. I can get about a 3/8 gap before it stops, but i think removing it fully would require removing the worm gear which would require removing the motor and probably ruining more gaskets.
 
Looks like nobody makes a 10 inch blade with a punchout anymore. The drive sprocket has a diamond fitting. A 10 1/4 wouldnt fit in the lower guard. So it will live on as the worlds sexiest and most powerful 8 1/4.
 
Anyone have a recommendation for a blade for nail embedded wood? Im planning on making a bowling alley table. Reddit tells me they have large spiral nails throughout. Also used it as an excuse to get my own beam saw. The ebay fairy delivered agin.
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