2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission ? on level kit

[TBarrett]

Alot of people are doing the 2" level kit and I was wondering, How hard is it to install myself? Or, what is involved in installing the steel lift spacers, as they look to me. I know longer shocks are needed. What is the best ones as the stock are junk and seems like they were from the start. I have a late 01 3/4 diesel 4x4. 2ndly is there a market for the factory 16x8 mag and how much could I look at getting for the set of 4, caps and lugs. Only had few hundred miles on them. Anyway, Thanks to any help, Terril.

 

[JLinder]

I recently pulled out the Skyjacker 4. 5" lift, and installed some Tuff County 2" spacers. It was done in two steps, because the spacers didn't show up until after the lift was out and truck was back together. So, starting from stock (where you are)...



Jack up truck and put the frame on jackstands

Remove tires

Using the jack to prevent the front end from hanging, unbolt top shock mount

Unbolt sway bar from frame

Lower front end

Remove coils and shocks

Install spacer

Install coils



I'm sure somebody will have a better way of getting the coils back in. I did it by putting the rubber isolator on top of the coil, then stuff the top of the coil onto the spacer. I had to pry a little to get the bottom of the coil into the mount, but not much.



Install shocks

Bolt the sway bar back up

Install tires



Done! Now, stand back with a cold one in hand and enjoy your handy work.

 

[Chipstien]

JLinder, what are you doing with the 4. 5 lift and why did you pull it out? I am looking for a Sckjacker 4. 5" lift kit.

 

[Chipstien]

Maybe I am reading your post wrong but I will let you correct me.

 

[lmills]

I think maybe he meant "pulled it out of the box".

 

[krs]

I've put the Tuff Country set into both of our trucks, even turned an additional piece to add 1/2" in the 2001. It's pretty much as JLinder described it though instead of prying I used a small scissor jack to push the axle down that last little bit for installing the springs and spacers back into place. DC has kindly provided small platforms on the frame and axle for jacking the axle down ) they're there, but I don't think that this was their original purpose).



As to shocks, I think Bilsteins are best and you'll need part #BE5-6681 for the fronts. That's the longer version for our trucks.

 

[JLinder]

JLinder, what are you doing with the 4. 5 lift and why did you pull it out? I am looking for a Sckjacker 4. 5" lift kit.

I pulled it out because my truck sat to high, couldn't get hooked up to the trailer. I already sold the kit.

 

[lmills]

oops! my fault. I misunderstood the post. Just ignore me.

 

[CUMAPART]

I was thinking on lifting the front of my truck a little bit also. From searching around I get the impression that you can still use the stock shocks with the 2" spacer kit or the D25 Coils from Skyjacker. Am I right? It seems that the steel spacer is easy but I don't need to see my axle shifting over to one side 2". I don't want the truck to sit nose high either. I heard some guys that install the D25's do sit a little higher in the front, I don't want that. Just need a little lift in the front. I know that my buddy made 2" lift blocks for the front of his F350 PSD. Yeah I know I don't agree with itbut it's his decision but he works his truck. (plowing and towing) no problems yet. I would just like my truck maybe not to sit absolutely completely level but a little higher in the front.

 

[Gene Heck]

2 inch kit

Cumapart,



I installed the 2 inch kit on my truck, piece of cake. It took about 1 1/2 hours total. The truck sits level now. The axle did shift to the left between 1/4 & 1/2 inch. I would go out and measure it to refresh my memory but it's pouring cold rain right now. I hope you understand. Anyway, all that you need to do is adjust your draglink a small amount to re-center the steering wheel and no one will ever see it. If you really want to fix the axle shift, then you need to buy or build an adjustable track bar. The stock shocks will work fine. I feel that my truck rides better than stock because of the extra space the front axle has to travel in without hitting the bumpstops. Hope this helps.



Gene

 

[CUMAPART]

Thanks Gene, but are you running the coils or the spacer? It's an easy job I just want to do it right. Do you need to get it alligned after you install either of these kits?

 

[Gene Heck]

Cumapart,





Sorry it took so long to reply, I missed your response. I used the spacer kit from Tuff Country. About $125. 00, I think.



I also reused the rubber dampers that are up in the coil buckets per their directions, helps keep road noise out. It is really easy to do. I did one side at a time. Jack up and put a jack stand under frame. Remove wheel. Jack the axle up high as you can. Either use a spring comp. or you can use 2 1" ratchet straps (if they have large hooks on them) to hold the spring compressed. Remove the sway bar link from the sway bar, remove shock. Lower the axle and the spring will drop out. Install their new mount plate hardware and reinstall the spring and damper and jack the axle back up. Reinstall the shock and swaybar link.



Repeat for the other side. The steering wheel will be off slightly. Adjust the draglink to recenter the steering wheel. I went and looked at mine the other day after I posted you and my axle shift was barely noticeable, only about 1/4". You couldn't see it if you didn't know it was there. My track tracks perfectly straight. No alignment was necessary. Hope this helps.



Gene

 

[krs]

CUMAPART,



Though it's usually recommended to use longer shocks for these lifts, I didn't do it on both trucks. On my '01 I did, but on our '97 I used stock sized Ranchos which I had previously installed. I've never noticed any ill effect from this.



I did look at using Skyjacker D25s, but there are some local reports of Skyjacker springs losing a little height over time, and going soft (or softer). I can't confirm or deny those opinions but since the Tuff Country steel parts look well designed for the purpose, obviously will not go soft, and cost less than the spring change I chose them.