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One more time Con OFE or Con FE

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I am in need of a new clutch ASAP. A dual disk is not an option it is too much $$$. With that said how user friendly is the FE. What I mean is does it make it difficult to back up to trailers, how about stop and go traffic, can the wife handle it ok, etc.

Just looking for some info from people with experience driving these 2 clutches. I have the Bully Dog Power Pup and Ramifier stacked and turned up. Some have seen a 200hp and almost 400 ft lbs dyno proven increase over stock on a SO truck with this setup. Mine may not do that well but I can't get the power to the road right now if I tried. The guy I talked to at Southbend (not Peter) said the OFE would work fine as their #'s are conservative. Suggestion or opinions greatly appreciated. No need to dispute my HP or Torque #'s with this set up because like I said I haven't dyno'd mine yet. I just don't want to be doing this again soon.
 
The OFE is as smooth as butter- like stock. The FE is friendly but at times can grab a little and cause shutter. No problem backing up a trailer- wife has no problem with it. Not as smooth as stock- but it holds a lot of power.



I would go with the FE
 
the FE will chatter when hot or backing, For me its not to bad and it really doesnt bother me. But also I made 450 HP with just the TST, intake, and exhaust. So I figured in the future the OFE would get smoked that much faster.
 
Keep the info coming guys. So far 2 checks to the FE.



mattymac- How about stop and go driving(city driving) or backing up to hook up trailers is it too jerky.



Thanks
 
WHamby-



I just got the FE installed last week and I have no regrets. I tow just a car trailer with jeep, but I have the same sort of power upgrades. I was faced with the same dilemna as you, i. e. , OFE or FE? That being said these are my impressions so far:



1) pedal pressure is same or slightly lighter than stock

2) pedal engagement is a bit lower than stock

3) I can definitely feel it grab on 2nd gear starts, especially when I was first learning it and using the low speed governer of the Cummins, but with feathering the pedal and/or throttle this can be overcome. Nevertheless, now I use 1st gear more in lots of traffic and parking lots only so I don't have to play with the throttle. If loaded and backing and manouvering a trailer with turns, I can definitely see where the 2-low upgrade available for the 2nd gens might be handy.

4) The shift feel is a bit "tighter" like a new transmission so I had to learn to goose the throttle quicker than before to match the engine speed with the transmission speed quicker between shifts. This is why: I got the upgraded, bigger pilot bearing, which is a tighter slip fit on the input shaft compared to the puny loose slip fit stock needle bearing. My thought is that because of this the transmission input shaft speed is matching the engine speed a lot quicker between shifts while the rest of the transmission internals are still spinning at the pre-shift speed.



I got mine installed at Quad4x4 (www.quad4x4.com) in Montana. Check out the website - it's a wealth of information. I know I'm a dieselhead when I drive 860 miles to get a clutch installed! Quad4x4 is a SouthBend clutch recommended installer and comes highly recommended especially in the 1st and 2nd gen forums for transmission swaps and drivetrain parts/upgrades (shameless plug!!).



Another thing to think about is that you're spending tons of labor time for a clutch job so you want to make sure you get the right clutch the first time. I would go with the FE again. I know if I didn't, I would always have in the back of my mind if I made the right decision.



If you were near by I would let you drive my truck with a trailer hooked up!



Hope this helps
 
JStieger

That is exactly the kind of input I was looking for. Do you think the pilot bearing upgrade is needed. SBC says the OEM style is fine with the newer 6 spds. I don't want to do this again so I want everything as right as I can get it the first time. Did you replace the slave cylinder also? I will be doing the work myself. I have changed lots of clutches on everything from log skidders to semis so I think I can get it done. I will be ordering the parts within the next week.



Thanks again for the input guys.
 
If you look at the stock needle pilot bearing compared the upgraded one, I think you'll agree to get it upgraded! Look at the quad4x4.com website for the pictures. Even though the pictures can be deceiving, in real life the stock bearing looked to be the diameter of a quarter or slightly bigger. The upgraded ones looked to be about 2-3 times the diameter and a little more on the depth so if you think of the power and torque being transmitted then the bigger bearing would provide better support. If you decide to get the upgraded one the flywheel bore needs to be machined. No slave cylinder replacement done for me, but I have heard of others doing it. I trusted Dan's at quad4x4 judgement and I am sure he would have pointed out if I needed it upgraded. You should give Dan a call - he's very straightforward, upfront, and honest with tons of experience - just like dealing with SBC direct! But Dan might provide more insight from the point of view of having to rebuild and/or upgrade transmissions.
 
JSteiger, you say your clutch engagement is lower? This could be a sign of a weak master/slave. The 3G setup is weak at best.

WHanby, if you are concerned at all with trailer manuevers, the OFE is the better choice. The FE is a great clutch, and is perfect for certain people, the same goes for the OFE and the DD's. The OFE is more forgiving, and obviously easier to slip and do backup manuevers in. It still has a positive engagement, not hitting as hard as the FE.
 
Definately have a roller pilot bearing installed. I had an OFE in my '03 and the shifting had gotten almost impossible and was terrible right from the beginning (botched install). Piers shop had the flywheel cleaned up and installed a roller pilot. Now it shifts smoother than glass and drops right into gear with zero drag. Couldn't be happier with Piers crew or SBC!



FWIW, the OFE held 484 hp and 1180 tq last pull on a load dyno. If I ever make it slip I'll be stepping up to the FE myself. So far I don't see that happening.



Richard
 
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Great post. I have been wondering what clutch to go with. I have been thinking a double disc but dont want to spend the money. The FE would be my next choice. With the mods in my signature plus the addition of twins hopefully in the next 1-2 months, should the FE be enough clutch?
 
JCleary said:
So, which one of these clutches will hold up to 3rd gear 4wd stoplight launches?



They will both hold approximately one third gear 4x4 launch. You need a DD if you are going to abuse it like that! The DD clutches are made to slip. :D
 
Fred Swanson said:
JSteiger, you say your clutch engagement is lower? This could be a sign of a weak master/slave. The 3G setup is weak at best.



Now you got me worried! Let me rephrase: the clutch engagement "feels" a bit lower than stock. I always thought the stock one felt high, but with the FE I still have lots of room to go to the floor. Maybe it's because of the grabbiness of the FE? Whereas with the stock clutch you could slip it, but probably not "feel" it as much. Anyhow, the more I drive it, the more the shifting feels like a hot knife through butter.



But now that we are on the subject I remember reading on here somewhere about upgrading the master/slave. Do you have details? Bolt-in? And is this more for the DD clutches? Or would guys with even stock clutches benefit too?
 
My parts should be here Tuesday. I will be working out of town. When I get home next weekend I will pull it apart. Then I will have to take the flywheel to get it machined. I have only found one place and it is 150 miles away. Nobody else so far has the capability to machine the pilot bearing hole. The place have found has done it a lot on heavy equipment when the old bearing locks up and makes a mess. He wants $125 to machine the hole and resurface the flywheel.
 
Well, that is probably not the same thing. If it is lower than half way when it releases, then it could be hydraulics.

I went through 2 stock ones with the FE and then the original DD. With the new DD I went to the earlier hydraulics, and the pedal effort is great. The release is right around the halfway mark.

I wouldn't be concerned on yours, it doesn't sound like it is an issue. I wouldn't say the upgraded hydraulics are required, unless you are faced with the need to replace at some point down the road.
 
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