Opening Window Switch Assembly

[WM-300]

The window switches on my 2003 have a intermittent problem. I am sure its due to snow falling in the cab this winter when the door is open. Snow melts and runs into the switch contacts and causes corrosion.



I proved the switch assembly to be the problem. Using jumpers to jump contacts in the connector, I have normal control of the windows.



I figured, open the switch assembly, clean the contacts and probably all will be well. With the switch assembly removed, I removed the small screws around the perimeter of the assembly. I unsnapped the plastic locks holding the two halfs together. It still will not separate, something dead center in the switch assembly appears to be holding the two halfs from separating.



I dont want to break the switch, how do you get the switch to open up.



Thanks

WM300

 

[Lordsman]

My driver door switches were erratic also. I removed the assembly from the door and sprayed them with electric contact cleaner. Worked well for me & others, have you tried that?

 

[WM-300]

My driver door switches were erratic also. I removed the assembly from the door and sprayed them with electric contact cleaner. Worked well for me & others, have you tried that?

I cant spray them until I can figure how to open the switch assembly. The switches have splash/dirt shields that prevent a spray with out opening.



WM300

 

[JFought]

broken wires to the rear doors have/do a very similar issue. (from door to pillar) dome lights, windows, and locks all can be problems or intermittent. You may want to check those. see threads about these issues within the last 6 months.

(i know about the switch you tested-- but my wires are broken and the dome still occasionally work when i open that door with the broken wires. I need to fix it, in my infinite free time... lol i am a contractor with a 4 month old! = no time for crap!)

 

[WM-300]

Interesting replies, but no answer to the question; How do you separate the window switch assembly after removing the screws and releasing the snap plastic latches. Its still held together in the center of the assembly



WM300

 

[SierraRam]

I could never figure it out, ended up replacing the whole assembly.

 

[RDeFayette]

Had the same problem with my '03 but also with the power lock /lock out switch.

Anyway the switch will NOT come apart without destroying it. What I did was cut a small window on the side of the switch (1/4" x 1/4", +/-) next to the offending switch/button. Remove this "window" and toss it. Get a can of electric contact cleaner and give it a good cleaning, after it dries give it a shot of wd-40. Should be good to go, fixed mine over a year ago , been fine since. Do yourself a favor and get a set of vent visors, stops the water from dripping right onto the switch assembly.

Bob

 

[WM-300]

Update on switch problem. It was obvious the switch was not coming apart (thanks Dodge). I drilled a . 125" hole centered on the side. I got out my Lyman Vibrating ammunition case cleaner. I taped the switch to the top of the Lyman vibrating case cleaner and then filled the switch with Electronic contact cleaner (NAPA) and turned on the case cleaner.



After a few minutes I filled the switch again. I did this 4 times in all and then drained the switch and blew air in the hole. The switch set out in the sun all day today. I put it back in the truck late this afternoon and everything now works as it should. Actually a easy fix.



WM300

 

[SierraRam]

Great idea, thanks for sharing.

 

[JeepinDoug]

I have a similar problem.
Most likely the switch case has a post and socket right in the middle of the two halves.
Either fused together during production or glued, they won't come apart without destroying the case.
My pass side window will not roll down from the driver's door switch but will roll up.
Another case of open window and rain landing on the switch.
I'll try to spray it without taking anything apart, just cycling the hopefully wet switch should clean it up enough to work again.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I had broken wires in the B colum. I took lots of pics of the fix but never posted them here. Guess I need to do that.

 

[Prairie Dog]

There was an extensive post about this some time back. The switch assemblies from that era have a bunch of cold solder joints in them. If you can get them apart and re-flow the solder they will work forever. Blasting cleaner in them may work for a while but it's not a fix. You can tell it's a bad joint by hitting the assembly hard or flexing it and making it work. Seems like the lock-out switch is the most frequent failure point.
I reflowed the joints on mine about 6 years ago and it has been flawless since.

As far as water getting in the switches, they're designed pretty smart and you could actually poor water over the top of the switch and it would never get moisture inside.

FWIW, you can get a replacement assembly from Rock auto for about $110.

 

[MarkEkberg]

You have to pull the black pieces off the switches themselves to get the to halves apart. If you know this you can do it without destroying it. If you don't know this, it is wrecked.


Hopefully I got here before you wrecked it?

 

[mfurrh55]

Got the same problem, except mine will roll the back windows down but not up, guess i'll try some cleaning too, Thanks for the fix, Monte

 

[seafish]

Got the same problem, except mine will roll the back windows down but not up, guess i'll try some cleaning too, Thanks for the fix, Monte

I had the same problem and it was definitely the broken wires in the door harness between the rear door and b-pillar. The wires get pinched and fatigued in the exact same place from the repeated opening/closing of the door(s). My kids only occasioanlly ride in the quad cab, and it still happened. This next aprt is IMPORTANT--sometimes times the wire(s) are NOT broken through the insulation, but instead broken INSIDE the insulation and you have to actually feel/palpate for the stiff/inflexible section (about 3/4" long) of the wire... even if you do not SEE a broken wires in the harness, be sure to fell for it. And even if you see a broken wire, be sure to palpate the rest to make sure that they are not broken (ie stiff) under the insualtion. The reason, IMO, that the window would go down and not up, is that the broken/fatigued wire was still making a point to point contact underneath the insulation...it was enough contact to let the window go down (low amps) but not enough contact to get the window up again (high amp draw). I hope that makes sense, at least it does to me...lol

 

[mfurrh55]

I had the same problem and it was definitely the broken wires in the door harness between the rear door and b-pillar. The wires get pinched and fatigued in the exact same place from the repeated opening/closing of the door(s). My kids only occasioanlly ride in the quad cab, and it still happened. This next aprt is IMPORTANT--sometimes times the wire(s) are NOT broken through the insulation, but instead broken INSIDE the insulation and you have to actually feel/palpate for the stiff/inflexible section (about 3/4" long) of the wire... even if you do not SEE a broken wires in the harness, be sure to fell for it. And even if you see a broken wire, be sure to palpate the rest to make sure that they are not broken (ie stiff) under the insualtion. The reason, IMO, that the window would go down and not up, is that the broken/fatigued wire was still making a point to point contact underneath the insulation...it was enough contact to let the window go down (low amps) but not enough contact to get the window up again (high amp draw). I hope that makes sense, at least it does to me...lol

You know, the windows would move if i wiggled the switch while pressing it, also the rear switches worked perfect, hoping they just need cleaned, but will do what you suggested if cleaning doesn't work, Thanks SF ,Monte

 

[Radshooter]

My driver's window switch finally gave out. It works sometimes in the full down/up position, but not at all in the "part way position". This is not the first time it quit. This time, however, soaking in electrical contact cleaner did not fix it like the last times. I am afraid I will get the window down one of these days and not be able to get it rolled back up.

Found these switches online. Look like the same switch but different prices. Have any of y'all ever ordered them and what do you think of them? Which would you recommend?


OK....can't copy and paste the links.
First is a Dorman for $75
Second is a Standard Motor Products for $90
Third is an Airtex/Wells for $105.

All are on RockAuto.com.

I don't mind paying for the expensive switch assembly if it is worth it and lasts as long as the original has.

Thanks

 

[RDeFayette]

My driver's window switch finally gave out. It works sometimes in the full down/up position, but not at all in the "part way position". This is not the first time it quit. This time, however, soaking in electrical contact cleaner did not fix it like the last times. I am afraid I will get the window down one of these days and not be able to get it rolled back up.

Found these switches online. Look like the same switch but different prices. Have any of y'all ever ordered them and what do you think of them? Which would you recommend?


OK....can't copy and paste the links.
First is a Dorman for $75
Second is a Standard Motor Products for $90
Third is an Airtex/Wells for $105.

All are on RockAuto.com.

I don't mind paying for the expensive switch assembly if it is worth it and lasts as long as the original has.

Thanks

this is what I got last year...so far so good.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Powe...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8007a2eb

$68- free shipping..saves a couple $$

 

[Prairie Dog]

The switch is a cover that keeps anything from running into the assembly - you could poor water over it and it would stay dry.
The problem with the switch assembly is a poor solder flow process that resulted in cold solder joints - and latent failures.
You can fix any of them by re-soldering the joints.