Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Operation Lift Pump Longevity (long)

[FourBarR]

ncostello are you putting the lift pump back in the stock location? im just getting around to relocating mine, is it worth it? respect your opinion for all the work you have done on this issue. use to be an old diesel mechanic in the 50 ,60 been in aircraft since 1977. love the cummins, thanks for your reply.

 

[Edward]

I'm sure, Edward, that by the time the RASP has a track record that sets your mind at ease we'll all be levitating around the planet in anti-gravity machines or the like. So far as people going for the "other" systems because of a track record goes it's more likely because there just wasn't any other option. Now there is - it's known as the RASP.

dcochran

I doubt that you know anything about what you think you are sure of when it comes to what will set my mind at ease. I was only expressing my personal opinion about a pump that I honestly looked into purchasing. In fact I took the time to call Bill and talk to him about it. If you have a problem with my opinion please take it to a PM. Lets have a conversation about products and leave the personalities out of it.



Edward

 

[Ncostello]

FourBarR... its not going back in the stock location. I'm satisfied with having it by the tank. However things are going to change from what I've had thus far.



One of the reasons I'm not going back to the stock location is because I no longer have the bracket. It was modified some time ago and its now a flat block off plate on the side of the block. I cut the pump hanger section off and ground it smooth. I thought I kept the spare piece but cannot find it anywhere. I was going to weld it back someday but now can't. I don't understand either... my garage is fairly organized For what its worth... I think the stock location will work. If you have to replace a pump someday the just do that. There is obviously no guarantee relocation will prevent that. So from the school of hard knocks, I think the stock works just as good as anywhere else. I say this because the pump, if working properly, will work from there. If it goes bad... it don't matter where its located. The pump just can't hold up anywhere in my opinion. And thats just from my perspective in my little world.



One thing I did notice while the pump was running good was very consistent pressures. But that alone may have been due to alot of things overall. In relocation... I wouldn't go into alot of complicated detail. Keep it as simple as possible and modify little. I had a write up on how to do this for around $100. I guess I always believed it was a good thing to do... although I was always thoughtful of the other ideas like a pusher pump setup which have worked well.



I will admit... adding a 7psi Carter pusher may be easier. In that case you could simply cut out a section of supply line, mount the pump in between, and fill the gaps with 3/8" SAE J30 R7 or R9 hose. Oh. . you'd need a few fuel barb fittings to screw into the pump ports. The aftermarked Carters (like in Summit Racing) have SAE threaded ports. Ours use metric oring ports which are kind of odd ball in the world of fittings. The wiring of course varies on how that gets done.



In relocation... you've got to fill a bigger gap because you're moving the pump and you have to connect the lines where it used to be. Can be done... but takes some hacking and some more hose/fittings and such.



Tonight I dismantled my setup completely. Two weeks to build... two hours to remove :{ . I'm modifying my prefilter bracket with a piece off the pump bracket. I always wanted the pump to be where the prefilter was. I'm not going to use a prefilter anymore. I'm also going back to the OEM filter and banjo fittings everywhere including the pump. I'm running all new J30R9 hose this time (last time was J30R7) inside the frame box sections now.



No prefilter this time cause I don't believe it helped me much. So that restriction is gone. I'm also going to mount the sending unit directly to the top of the canister for simplicity. All the stock lines are going back on from the filter to the VP. The fuel line coming up to the canister will hook to a fuel barb banjo I have from a 2002 fuel system donor. Again... simple. I'm also going to paint the pump black to prevent corrosion this time. No shutoff valve anymore either. If I have to change this pump out I'll blow the fuel back through the line from the filter canister. This will stop the siphon effect.



In essence... its going to be a simple relocated pump job now. Stanadyne filters are on the shelf. Losses are added up and I'll rack up as many more miles as this pump lets me. Unless I get a good deal on a Preporator. Hate to do that however as I'm looking for a 4x4 auto quadcab now. Don't wanna waste mods like that just to sell.

 

[rweis]

Nick,



Again thanks for all the work. I am still (40k) satisfied with mine relocated and prefiltered. Time will tell. If I have to replace the Carter every couple of years as a maintenance thing that would not be the worst thing, sort of like changing oil.



IF I ever really change it I think I will do the RASP just because it is a radical departure from the electric technology. I will leave the carter on the frame though as I have it now for priming.



Sorry you feel so frustrated with your setup. I know how you feel with other projects that I really believed in and spent years on only to abandon them. Pride of ownership and solution finding probably.



Bob Weis

 

[Ncostello]

Been busy at work. Thank goodness my old F150 is still running after 220,000 miles on its original fuel pump. At least its an inline 6 too!!



Combined my prefilter bracket with my custom lift pump bracket to make a new lift pump bracket. I'm about done and it will basically be put together with stock parts and look stock except for the lift pump location. I'm not sure how this pump will do with no mesh screen over the pickup inside the tank. I suppose I better leave the wire mesh screen inside the pump itself incase large debris passes. Last time I checked the inside of my tank was spotless.

 

[Ncostello]

Done finally. Click this for the photos of the basic setup.



Relocated Pump Revision 2



I ran the suction hose and wiring inside the box section of the frame. The pump seems to work fine with a idle of 14. 5 and a cruise of 12. I can pull down to 10psi... but these numbers are fine when using the OEM filter setup and banjo fittings.



The pressure hose I used this time was J30R9. $6/foot stuff. Good to 150 psi. Now I have a basic system that kinda looks as if it could have been factory although they might have used some steel lines instead. I had a bunch of banjo fittings from the original filter and a 2002 truck. All pressure side fittings used had barbs and clamps. The suction side fittings didn't have barbs but were instead used with 2 clamps as shown.



Gave it a 257 mile test today too. Worked fine and didn't leave me stranded!!

 

[rbattelle]

Pre-Filter (before the lift pump):

FM100 Header 33648, 30M Primary Filter/Water Sep. 31865, Hand Primer Pump 29578, 100W Heater Element 34145, 12V Water Sensor Kit 29268... $153. 29.

Ncostello -



Hope you can help me out here. I just took delivery of a Stanadyne 12V water sensor kit for my FM-100 unit (P/N 29268). In the instructions it says:

The water sensor assembly consists mof a stamped steel plate, which resembles the mounting bracket of the filter casting, and a plastic housing, which contains the sensor's electronics.

But my kit doesn't have the stamped steel plate, it only has the plastic housing! Am I missing the steel plate, or are the recent kits not including that? Seems to me I need the steel plate for grounding. My kit looks just like the one pictured here. (notice no steel plate).



What did you have?



On edit: just looked over your RR pics. I have exactly what you have - no plate. So do I need to provide a ground line for the little plastic housing? Where did you mount yours?



Thanks,

Ryan

 

[Ncostello]

You're gonna be mad at me . I never mounted mine. My goal was to get the mechanical/plumbing side done then finish up with the heaters and water sensors. The pumps kept failing on me so I never installed all that I bought. I still have the water sensor (and everything else for that matter). I also have the heaters New In Box.



I put the truck back to somewhat stock before I got rid of it. Sorry I can't help. I will take a look at mine and see what I might have done.

 

[rbattelle]

You're gonna be mad at me . I never mounted mine. My goal was to get the mechanical/plumbing side done then finish up with the heaters and water sensors. The pumps kept failing on me so I never installed all that I bought. I still have the water sensor (and everything else for that matter). I also have the heaters New In Box.



I put the truck back to somewhat stock before I got rid of it. Sorry I can't help. I will take a look at mine and see what I might have done.

Shoot. Guess I better call Stanadyne...



-Ryan